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Characterixtics of wave breaking over bottom boundary with arbitrary shape and a unified analysis on them

Research Project

Project/Area Number 04452233
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionGifu University

Principal Investigator

YASUDA Takashi  Gifu Univ., Dept. of Civil Eng., Prof., 工学部, 教授 (10093329)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) SAKAKIBARA Yukio  Toyota Tech. College, Dept. of Civil Eng., Re. Assoc., 助手 (50249801)
SHINODA Seirou  ditto, Re. Assoc, 工学部, 助手 (80187369)
Project Period (FY) 1992 – 1993
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1993)
Budget Amount *help
¥3,900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,900,000)
Fiscal Year 1993: ¥1,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,200,000)
Fiscal Year 1992: ¥2,700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,700,000)
KeywordsWave breaking / Breaker index / Breaker height / Breaker type / Solitary wave / Submerged dike / Boundary Integral Method / BIM
Research Abstract

1. Unified formulation for breaker index of solitary waves over uneven bottmos.
Breaking wave characteristics were made quantitatively clear for a solitary wave incident to a uniformly sloping bottom, a submerged step and a submerged dike, resperdirely. Breaker indices were defined for the following three items and further their geverning laws were extablished ; i) Critical incident wave height H_c which gives the limiting wave height of the incident wave passing through a step or dike without breaking, ii) Breaking point and iii) Breaker height.
2. Breaking of a solitary wave caused by a submerged dike and its internal kinematic.
Experiments and BIM simulations on the propagation up to breaking of a solitary wave over a submerged dike verifield that the numerical modeluse for the BIM simulations can give sufficiently accurate solutions which agree very well with the experimental results concerning on not only the water surface elevation but the also internal kimematics. The computation m … More ade clear that the vertical distributions of horizontal and vertical water particle velocites remarkably change dependently on the breaker type, that is, either spiller or plunger.
3. Internal kinematics of a solitary wave accompanying a plunging jet from its crest and their extreme values.
Internal kinematics of a solitary wave after breaking limit and their relationships to breaker-type were made clear by performing BIM simulations. Formulations were made for the relation between their extreme values and breaker type.
Impulsive pressure due to a solitary wave breaking exerted on a vertical wall and its relation to breaker type.
It was found that impulsive pressure exerted on a vertical wall is closely related to breaker type through entrained air due to breaking.
5. Wave deformation and after breaking on a step and its relation to breaker type.
Formation were made for the relations of the solitaly wave attenuation after breaking to the breaker type index. It was found that the wave heigh can be reduced to about 20% of its initial height by causing plunning breaker over a step and wave due to breaking is useful for wave control. Less

Report

(3 results)
  • 1993 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 1992 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (22 results)

All Other

All Publications (22 results)

  • [Publications] 安田孝志・榊原幸雄: "ステップによる孤立波の砕波形式の定量的評価と支配法側について" 海岸工学論文集. 39. 51-55 (1992)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda,M.Hara & Y.Sakakibara: "Breaking criteria of a solitary wave passing over a submerged obstacle" Breaking Waves(Eds.M.Banner & R.Grimshaw,Springer-Verlag). 347-353 (1992)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda,M.Hara,H.Mutsuda & A.Tada: "Internal velocity field at incipient breaking of a solitary wave over a submerged dike" Proc.15th Boundary Element Int.Conf.,Worcester/USA. 179-192 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] M.Hara,T.Yasuda & Y.Sakakibara: "Characteristics of a solitary wave breaking caused by a submerged obstacle" Proc.23rd Int.Conf.on Coastal Eng.,Venice/Italy. 253-266 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 安田孝志・篠田成郎ほか: "ステップ上の直立壁に作用する衝撃砕波圧と砕波形式の関係" 海岸工学論文集. 40. 756-760 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 榊原幸雄: "潜堤による孤立波の砕波形式の定量的評価" 豊田工業高等専門学校紀要. 26. 75-80 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda & Y.Sakakibara: "Quantitative classification of breaker type of solitary wave over a step and its governing law" Proc. Coastal Eng. 39. 51-55 (1992)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda, M.Hara & Y.Sakakibara: "Breaking criteria of a solitary wave passing over a submerged obstacle" Breaking Waves (Eds.M.Banner & R.Grimshaw, Springer-Verlag). 347-353 (1992)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda, Y.Sakakibara & M.Hara: "BIM simulation on deformation up to breaking solitary waves over uneven bottoms" Fluid Flow Modelling (Eds.W.R.Blain & Cabrera, Comuputational Mech.Pub). 523-534 (1992)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda, M.Hara, H.Mutsuda & H.Tada: "Internal velocity field at incipient breaking of a solitary wave over19GC04 : Proc. 15th Boundary Element Int. Conf., Worcester" 179-192 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] M.Hara, T.Yasuda & Y.Sakakibara: "Characteristics of a solitary wave breaking caused by a submerged obstacle" Proc. 23th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Venice. 253-266 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda et al: "Relation of breaker type to shock pressure acting upon a vertical wall on step" Proc. Coastal Eng.40. 756-760 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Y.Sakakibara: "Quantitative classification of breaker type of solitary waves on surbmerged obstacle" Tech. Report of Toyota Tech. College. 26. 75-80 (1993)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1993 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 安田孝志・榊原幸雄: "ステップによる孤立波の砕波形式の定量的評価と支配法則について" 海岸工学論文集. 39. 51-55 (1992)

    • Related Report
      1993 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda,M.Hara & Y.Sakakibara: "Breaking criteria of a solitary wave passing over a submerged obstacle" Breaking Waves(Eds.M.Banner & R.Grimshaw,Springer-Verlag). 347-353 (1992)

    • Related Report
      1993 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda,M.Hara,H.Mutsuda & A.Tada: "Internal velocity field at incipient breaking of a solitary wave over a submerged dike" Proc.15th Boundary Element Int.Conf.,Worcester/USA. 179-192 (1993)

    • Related Report
      1993 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] M.Hara,T.Yasuda & Y.Sakakibara: "Characteristics of a solitary wave breaking caused by a submerged obstacle" Proc.23rd Int.Conf.on Coastal Eng.,Venice/Italy. 253-266 (1993)

    • Related Report
      1993 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 安田孝志・篠田成郎ほか: "ステップ上の直立壁に作用する衝撃砕波圧と砕波形式の関係" 海岸工学論文集. 40. 756-760 (1993)

    • Related Report
      1993 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 榊原幸雄: "潜堤による孤立波の砕波形式の定量的評価" 豊田工業高等専門学校研究紀要. 26. 75-80 (1993)

    • Related Report
      1993 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 安田 孝志・榊原 幸雄: "ステップによる孤立波の砕波形式の定量的評価と支配法則について" 海岸工学論文集. 第39巻. 51-55 (1992)

    • Related Report
      1992 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda,M.Hara&Y.Sakakibara: "Breaking criteria of a solitary wave passing over a submerged obstacle" Breaking waves(Eds.M.Banne&R.Grimshaw,Springes-Verlag). 347-353 (1992)

    • Related Report
      1992 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda,M.Hara,H.Mutuda&H.Tada: "Internal velocity field at incipient breaking of a solitary wave over a submerged dibe" Proc.15Boundary Element Int.Conf.(1993)

    • Related Report
      1992 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1992-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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