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Wave trasformation on pebble beach and deformation of the beach

Research Project

Project/Area Number 06650565
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionOsaka University

Principal Investigator

DEGUCHI Ichiro  Osaka Univ., Faculty of Eng., Civil Eng.Associ.Prof., 工学部, 助教授 (00029323)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) ONO Masanobu  Osaka Univ., Faculty of Eng., Civil Eng., Res.Associ., 工学部, 助手 (80214188)
SAWARAGI Toru  Osaka Sangyo Univ., Faculty of Eng., Civil Eng.Prof., 工学部, 教授 (60028975)
Project Period (FY) 1994 – 1995
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1995)
Budget Amount *help
¥2,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,000,000)
Fiscal Year 1995: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Fiscal Year 1994: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Keywordspebble beach / non-linear unsteady Darcy's law / wave run-up / Dean's profile / 3乗則 / 透水性斜面 / 遡上高 / 非線形長波理論 / 反射率低減 / 海浜平衡断面 / 反射波制御
Research Abstract

Recently gentle slope sea dikes with permeable slope instead of steep slope concrete dikes have been constructing widely. The reason is that the former have effective function to reduce wave run-up and reflection from the dike and give room for creating new ecosystem on them. In this study, hydraulic function of permeable gentle slope sea dikes constructed using pebble is first investigated. The deformation of the sea dike is also examined in the laboratory and in the field.
Deguchi and Sawaragi carried out experiments in 2-D wave tanks to examine wave transformation, run-up on the model sea dikes of various slope and surface elements. It is found that waves dissipate their energy on the permeable slope and decay their height and consequently the depth of wave breaking and the wave breaking height decrease remarkably. The rate of decreases becomes large with the increase in the size of the pebble on the slope and with decrease in the slope. Especially, wave run-up height on the permeable slope is less than a half of the on the impermeable slope. Then they constructed numerical model for predicting wave height and wave run-up on the permeable slope by applying a non-linear unsteady Dary's law for the fluid motion in the permeable layr. The predicted results coincide fairly well with the measured wave height and run-up.
Ono and Deguhi investigated 2-D deformation of the sea dikes made of pebble in the laboratory and 3-D topography change in the Marble Beach constructed using pebble of marble and locating on the southern part of Osaka Bay. It is found that a so-called depoitional type profile change took place by net onshore pebble transport. The both equilibrium profiles of the pebble slope in the field and experiments coincide with the Dean's profile.

Report

(3 results)
  • 1995 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 1994 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (15 results)

All Other

All Publications (15 results)

  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "2成分波に拘束された長周期波の浅水変形とBoussinesq方程式による解析" 海岸工学論文集. 41. 66-70 (1994)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "透過性構造物による波の変形" 土木学会 水工学シリーズ. 94-B. 1-16 (1994)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "礫浜上の波変形" 海岸工学論文集. 42. 41-45 (1995)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] I. Deguchi.: "Waves on pebble beach and deformation of pebble beach" Proc. ICCE. 25(登載決定). (1996)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] I. Deguchi: "Coastal Engineering-Waves,Beaches and Wave'structure interaction." Elsevier Science, 479 (1995)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ichiro Deguchi: "Shoaling of bounded long waves caused by bichromatic waves and analysis of them using Boussinesq equation" Proc.Coastal Engineering, JSCE. Vol.41. 66-70 (1994)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ichiro Deguchi: "Wave transformation around permeable structures" Lecture Note of 30th Summer Semior on Hydrukic Engineering JSCE,Course B. (1994)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ichiro Deguchi: "Wave transformation on pebble beach" Proc.Coastal Engineering, JSCE. Vol.42. 41-45 (1995)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ichiro Deguchi: "Waves on peble beach and defomation of pebble beach" Proc.25th ICCE,ASCE. (to be published).

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1995 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "礫浜上の波変形" 海浜工学論文集(土木学会). 42. 41-45 (1995)

    • Related Report
      1995 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] J.Deguchi: "Waves on pebblc beach and fformation of pebble beach" Proc.ICCE (ASCE)(登載決定、未出版). 25. (1996)

    • Related Report
      1995 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "人工礫波の海浜変形とその予測" 海浜工学論文集. 43(発表予定). (1997)

    • Related Report
      1995 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] I.Deguchi: "Coastal Enginelring-Waves,Beaches and wavestructure in Teraction" Elseviev Science (Cd.by.T.Sawaragi.), 479 (1995)

    • Related Report
      1995 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "2成分波に拘束された長周期波の浅水変形とBoussinesq方程式による解析" 海岸工学論文集. 41. 66-70 (1994)

    • Related Report
      1994 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 出口一郎: "透過性構造物による波の変形" 土木学会 水工学シリーズ. 94-B. 1-16 (1994)

    • Related Report
      1994 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1994-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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