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Study on quasi three-dimensional numerical model for nonlinear random waves.

Research Project

Project/Area Number 10450180
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionUniversity of Tokyo

Principal Investigator

ISOBE Masahiko  Department of Environmental Studies, Univ. of Tokyo, Professor, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 教授 (20114374)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) SASAKI Jun  Department of Environmental Studies, Univ. of Tokyo, Associate Professor, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 助教授 (50292884)
SATO Shinji  Department of Civil Engineering, Univ. of Tokyo, Professor, 大学院・工学系研究科, 教授 (90170753)
余 錫平  東京大学, 大学院・工学系研究科, 助教授 (90253632)
Project Period (FY) 1998 – 2000
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2001)
Budget Amount *help
¥6,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥6,300,000)
Fiscal Year 2000: ¥1,500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,500,000)
Fiscal Year 1999: ¥4,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,800,000)
Keywordsshort-crested random waves / nonlinear waves / breaking waves / short-crested random wave basin / numerical model / swash zone / nonlinear mild-slope equations / 非線形性 / 海浜流 / 多方向不規則造波装置 / 鉛直断面分布 / 戻り流れ / 水槽実験
Research Abstract

In this study, a numerical model of nonlinear, random wave transformation in the vertical two dimensions is developed first. The basic equations of the model are the nonlinear mild-slope equations proposed by Isobe (1994), and an efficient numerical algorithm is developed in addition to the boundary condition at the wave generator which can generate long waves as well. A moving boundary is installed to deal with the wave motion in the surf zone. By integrating these factors, a numerical model is proposed to predict the profile, velocity and turbulence of random waves on a general topography from deep to shallow water. A two dimensional experiment is performed to develop and verify the numerical model by measuring the wave field including the swash zone.
Next, the breaking criteria of short-crested random waves is studied to incorporate with a three dimensional numerical model for random waves. A short-crested random wave basin is developed to reproduce short-crested random wave fields. The wave generator is more sophisticated than existing ones, with a stable feed back system to absorb reflected waves. Data for the breaking criteria are obtained by experiments by this wave basin.
To develop a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of nonlinear random waves, numerical models of wave transformation are developed based on the nonlinear mild-slope equations and Boussinesq equations. These models are verified by applying to the wave diffraction and run-up problems. By combining the Boussinesq equations model with a model to predict the vertical velocity distribution due to undertow, a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of nonlinear random waves is developed.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • 2000 Annual Research Report
  • 1999 Annual Research Report
  • 1998 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (24 results)

All Other

All Publications (24 results)

  • [Publications] Abohadima, S.M.Isobe: "On dispersion property of mild slope equation"Coastal Engineering Journal. 41(2). 183-200 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Abohadima, S.M.Isobe: "Nonlinear wave equations over general topography"Proc. 27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. (印刷中). (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 大橋弘明, 有川太郎, 磯部雅彦, 渡辺 晃: "多方向不規則波の砕波条件に関する実験的研究"海岸工学論文集. 47. 66-70 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 有川太郎, 磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波・遡上計算モデルの開発"海岸工学論文集. 47. 186-190 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Abohadima, S. and M. Isobe: "On dispersion property of mild slope equation"Coastal Engineering Journal. 41(2). 183-200 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Abohadima, S. and M. Isobe: "Nonlinear wave equations over general topography"Proc. 27th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng.. (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ohashi, H., T. Arikawa, M. Isobe and A. Watanabe: "Study on breaking criterion of multi-directional random waves"Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE. 47. 66-70 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Arikawa, T. and M. Isobe: "Development of numerical model for breaking and run-up waves with nonlinear mild-slope equation"Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE. 47. 186-190 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Abohadima,S.M.Isobe: "On dispersion property of mild slope equation"Costal Engineering Journal. 41(2). 183-200 (1999)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Abohadima,S.M.Isobe: "Nonlinear wave equations over general topography"Proc.27th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. (印刷中). (2001)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 大橋弘明,有川太郎,磯部雅彦,渡辺晃: "多方向不規則波の砕波条件に関する実験的研究"海岸工学論文集. 47. 66-70 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 有川太郎,磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波・遡上計算モデルの開発"海岸工学論文集. 47. 186-190 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Abohadima,S.,M.Isobe: "Linear and nolinear wave diffraction using the nonlinear time dependent mild slope equations"Coastal Engineering. 37. 175-192 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Abohadima,S.M.Isobe: "On dispersion property of mild slope equation"Coastal Engineering Jorunal. (印刷中). (2000)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 磯部雅彦、渡辺 晃、小西勇介、都築臨太郎: "曲線型他方向不規則造波装置の開発"海岸工学論文集. 46. 11-15 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 有川太郎、磯部雅彦: "非線型緩勾配方程式を用いた任意反射率を持つ構造物周辺の入・反射波浪共存場解析"海岸工学論文集. 46. 56-60 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 鄭 培喜、余 錫平、磯部雅彦: "遡上波の高精度数値計算法の開発"海岸工学論文集. 46. 181-185 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃、青池大介、磯部雅彦: "任意地形上の戻り流れの定量的評価法の提案"海岸工学論文集. 46. 186-190 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] S.Abohadima・余 錫平・磯部雅彦: "非線形波理論の最適分散特性について" 海岸工学論文集. 45. 6-10 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 有川太郎・磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波モデルの構築" 海岸工学論文集. 45. 141-145 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃・中村裕史・佐々木 淳・小林 博・磯部雅彦: "斜め入射波の遡上とそれに伴う浜漂砂の数値モデル" 海岸工学論文集. 45. 186-190 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] P.Zheng and M.Isobe: "Analysis of dispersion and shoaling characteristics of linearized mild-slope equations" Coastal Engineering Journal. 40・2. 177-189 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 有川太郎・磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波判定法の適用性" 海岸工学論文集. 44. 91-95 (1997)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 柿沼太郎・渡辺 晃・磯部雅彦: "三角形潜堤周辺の砕波を伴う波・流れ場の非線形数値計算" 海岸工学論文集. 44. 111-115 (1997)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1999-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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