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REPRODUCTION OF REAL SEA STATE DURING A STORM BY MULTI-DIRECTIONAL WAVE-MAKERS

Research Project

Project/Area Number 10555173
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section展開研究
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionKYOTO UNIVERSITY

Principal Investigator

TAKAYAMA Tomotsuka  Kyoto university, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Professor, 防災研究所, 教授 (60273520)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) SATOH Shinji  University of Tokyo, Graduate School of Civil Eng., Dept. of Civil Eng., Professor, 大学院・工学研究科, 教授 (90170753)
HIRAISHI Tetsuya  Ind. Adm. Institution, Port and Airport Research Institute, Chief of Wave Lab., (研究職)波浪研究室長
MASE Hajime  Kyoto university, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Associate Professor, 防災研究所, 助教授 (30127138)
Project Period (FY) 1998 – 2000
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2001)
Budget Amount *help
¥6,500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥6,500,000)
Fiscal Year 2000: ¥1,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,800,000)
Fiscal Year 1999: ¥3,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,200,000)
Fiscal Year 1998: ¥1,500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,500,000)
KeywordsStormy waves / Statistics of storm waves / Wave Transformation / Unsteady wave generation / Uni-directional waves / Directional spectrum / 暴風時波浪 / 非定常造波 / 方向スペクトル / サーペント型造波装置 / サーペント造波装置 / 波浪方向スペクトル
Research Abstract

Wind waves are rapidly developed as a storm grows up from a calm state, and they reach to maximum at the strongest state of the storm. As the storm decays and returns to the original calm state, the waves gradually decrease. Thus, the height, period and direction of the waves vary during a storm. Though presently available wave-makers can generate directional random waves in a steady state, they cannot generate the waves in an unsteady state like a storm. Therefore, it is very important to develop the reproduction model of unsteady random waves in a laboratory.
It is necessary to obtain sufficient information about the characteristics of sea waves in order to reproduce stormy wave in a laboratory. The wave observation stations at Wajima in Japan Sea and at Omaezaki in the Pacific were selected. The time historical variations of observed waves during a storm have been characterized to introduce them into the reproduction model. The waves more than 2m are defined as stormy waves and their … More duration time and variation rates in increase and decrease of the storm waves have been investigated. Though the occurrence rates of the storm duration at the two stations decreases exponentially the occurrence rate of long duration at Wajima is higher than that at Omaezaki. Especially at Omaezaki, the appearance rate of multi-peaked spectra was also checked The effect of external waves on the waves inside a bay during a storm has been investigated numerically for Osaka Bay. Though the external waves are relatively influential on small waves inside the bay, they become negligible for large waves developed inside the bay.
Taking into account the characteristics of observed waves in fields, reproduction model of unidirectional random waves during a storm has been developed for a wave flume. It has been confirmed that unsteady random waves generated in the flume well agree with the target waves observed in a storm. A reproduction model of directional random waves in a storm has been proposed, but the model could not directly be introduced into the present procedures of directional wave-makers. Therefore, it is impossible to evaluate the proposed model by reproducing directional random storm waves in a laboratory. The evaluation of the model in hydraulic experiments is a future subject to solve. Less

Report

(4 results)
  • 2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • 2000 Annual Research Report
  • 1999 Annual Research Report
  • 1998 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (23 results)

All Other

All Publications (23 results)

  • [Publications] 間瀬 肇: "波の回折を考慮した多方向不規則波の波浪変形モデルに関する研究"土木学会論文集. 第628号. 177-187 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 帯包浩司: "異常波浪の変化特性に関する研究"'99日本沿岸域学会研究討論会講演概要集. No.12. 92-95 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 間瀬 肇: "位相平均波浪変形解析モデルへの回折効果のモデリングと適用性に関する研究"海岸工学論文集. 第46巻. 66-70 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 高山知司: "御前崎沖波浪観測における多峯型方向スペクトル波の出現特性"海洋開発論文集. Vol.16. 93-98 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 芹沢重厚: "田辺湾の長期波浪特性に関する研究"海洋開発論文集. 第16巻. 381-386 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 平山克也: "時間的に変化する波浪の造波とその解析"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 6-10 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 高山知司: "御前崎沖における多峯型方向スペクトル波の出現特性"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 76-80 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 高山知司: "波浪に係わる水理実験の変遷"京都大学防災研究所年報. 第43号・B-2. 345-355 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Hajime Mase: "Multi-directional spectral wave transformation Model including diffraction effect"Journal of Hydraulic, coastal and environmental Eng., JSCE. No. 628, 11-48. 177-187 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kouji Obigane: "Characteristics of time variation of storm waves"Proc. of JACZ Annual Conference. No. 12. 92-95 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Hajime Mase: "Modeling and verification of diffraction effect in phase-averaging wave prediction model"Proc. of Coastal Engineering. Vol. 46. 66-70 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tomotsuka Takayama: "Occurrence Characteristics directional random waves with multi-peaks observed off Omaezaki"Proc. of Civil Eng. In the Ocean. Vol. 16. 93-98 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Shigeatsu Serizawa: "Characteristicsof waves observed at Tanabe Bay for 5 years"Proc. of Civil Eng. In the Ocean. Vol. 16. 381-386 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Katsuya Hirayama: "generation and analysis of transient waves"Proc. of Coastal Engineering. Vol. 47. 6-10 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tomotsuka Takayama: "Occurrence characteristics of multi-peaks directional waves off Omaezaki and their statistic reproduction"Proc. of Coastal Engineering. Vol. 47. 76-80 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tomotsuka Takayama: "Historical change of hydraulic experiments for coastal engineering"Annuals of the Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto Univ.. No. 43 B-2. 345-355 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 高山知司: "御前崎沖波浪観測における多峯型方向スペクトル波の出現特性"海洋開発論文集. Vol.16. 93-98 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 平山克也: "時間的に変化する波浪の造波とその解析"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 6-10 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 高山知司: "御前崎沖における多峯型方向スペクトル波の出現特性"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 76-80 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 帯包浩司: "異常波浪の変化特性に関する研究"'99日本沿岸域学会研究討論会講演概要集. No.12. 92-95 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 間瀬 肇: "位相手均波浪変形解析モデルへの回折効果のモデリング"海岸工学論文集. 46巻. 66-70 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 北野正夫: "台風9807号通過地点で観測した異常波浪特性と既往推算法"海岸工学論文集. 46巻. 281-285 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 佐藤慎司: "富士海岸における侵食対策としての動的養浜の効果"海岸工学論文集. 46巻. 676-680 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1998-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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