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Explanation and modelling of the mechanism of generation and development of breaking wave jet

Research Project

Project/Area Number 10650501
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionGifu University

Principal Investigator

YASUDA Takashi  Gifu Univ., Grad. Course of Enviro. & Renewable Energy Sys., Prof., 工学部, 教授 (10093329)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) MUTSUDA Hidemi  ditto, Re. Assoc., 工学部, 助手 (80273126)
TANAKA Mitsuhiro  Gifu Univ., Dept. of Civil Eng., Assoc. Prof., 工学部, 助教授 (70163582)
KOBAYASHI Tomonao  ditto, Assoc. Prof., 工学部, 助教授 (50205473)
SAKAKIBARA Yukio  Toyota Tech. College, Dept. of Civil Engrg., Assit. Prof., 講師 (50249801)
Project Period (FY) 1998 – 1999
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1999)
Budget Amount *help
¥3,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,000,000)
Fiscal Year 1999: ¥700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥700,000)
Fiscal Year 1998: ¥2,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,300,000)
KeywordsWave breaking / Breaking wave jet / Breaking wave process / Wave absorption / Entrained air bubble / Coherent eddies
Research Abstract

1) Generation condition and characteristics of a breaking wave jet
Investigations were made on changes of water surface profiles and velocity fields in jet formation process of a solitary wave breaking on a uniformly sloping bottom and reef. It was found that the size of the breking wave jet depends on shoaling effect and becomes a paradmeter governing horizontal asymmetry of wave motion.
2) Breaking wave processes after the plunging of a overturning jet and their internal kinematics.
Hydraulic-experimental and numerical investigations were made on transient processes from large-scale coherent eddies generated by the plunging jet to small-scale turbulent eddies. It was made clear that the sizes of the coherent eddies and entrained air bubbles are in linear relations with the jet size parameter and a theoretical approach on the breaking wave processes becomes possible only if the size of an overturning jet can be evaluated by a wave model before breaking.
3) Influences of the plunging jet o … More n energy dissipation and momentum transfer in wave breaking processes
Investigations were made on a transmission coefficient related to dissipation and wave set-up caused by momentum transfer in random wave breaking processes on reef. It was found that the transmission coefficient and wave set-up are governed by the kinematics of a jet ejected from each crest but can be treated by such statistics as significant wave height.
4) Generation condition and characteristics of jet ejected from shallow water breaking wave.
Relationships of jet generation condition to incident wave parameters, bottom topography and overturning jet kinematics were made clear through the numerical simulations using the Boundary Integral Method.
5) Relationships between kinematics of plunging jet and breaking wave process after the plunging.
It was found that there is a unique relation between the size and the horizontal velocity of overturning jet and about 80% of the momentum of the plunging jet is absorbed into the development of spray.
6) Modelling of breaking wave process after the jet plunging
It was verified in comparison with hydraulic-experimental results that a model using the VOF method with the κ-ε model is applicable to the breaking wave process. Less

Report

(3 results)
  • 1999 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 1998 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (32 results)

All Other

All Publications (32 results)

  • [Publications] 松田博文、安田孝志ほか: "突入ジェットと気泡混入を伴う砕波後の内部特性の関係"海岸工学論文集. 45. 116-120 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 陸田秀実、河合ひろみ、安田孝志: "C-CUP法による気液界面の直接数値計算"海岸工学論文集. 45. 55-59 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 安田孝志、陸田秀実ほか: "トラップ式ダブルリーフの不規則波に対する消波・セットアップ・抑制効果"海岸工学論文集. 45. 706-710 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 榊原幸雄、安田孝志ほか: "一様傾斜海辺への最適な人工リーフ設置条件"海岸工学論文集. 45. 716-720 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 水谷夏樹、安田孝志ほか: "孤立波の砕波過程へのK-εモデルの適用と乱流構造に関する研究"海岸工学論文集. 46. 156-160 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda, H.Mutuda, et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of breaking waves with spray and air bubbles"The Wind-Driven Air-Sea interface. 275-276 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 水谷夏樹、安田孝志ほか: "水面波ジェットと突入後の砕波過程との関係について"海岸工学論文集. 46. 121-125 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 陸田秀実、安田孝志: "砕波後の気液浪相流体場の力学的運動機構に関する数値解析"海岸工学論文集. 46. 161-165 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Yasuda, H.Mutuda, et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of breaking waves with spray and air bubbles"Coastal Engineeing Journal. 41. 269-280 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Matsuda, T. Yasuda et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet to internal kinematics of breaking waves with entrained air bubbles"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 45. 116-120 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Matsuda, H. Kawai and T. Yasuda: "Direct numerical computation of air-liquid interface using the C-CUP method"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 45. 55-59 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T. Yasuda, H. Mutsuda et al.: "Effects of the trapping double reaf for random waves on wave absorption and set-up suppression"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 45. 706-710 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Y. Sakakibara, T. Yasuda et al.: "Optimum design condition of an artifical reef on a uniformly sloping beach"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 45. 716-720 (1998)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] N. Mizutani, T. Yasuda and T. Ogasawara: "Application of the κ-εmodel to solitary wave breaking processes and their turbulence structure"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 46. 156-160 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T. Yasuda, H. Mutuda et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of beaking waves with spray and air bubbles"The Wind-Driven Air-Sea Interface, ed. M. Banner The Univ. of NSW. 275-276 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] N. Mizutani and T. Yasuda: "Relationships of plunging jet to breaking wave processes on reef"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 46. 121-125 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Mutsuda and T. Yasuda: "A numerical computation of air-liquid multiphase flow fields after breaking"Proc. Coastal Eng.. Vol. 46. 161-165 (1999)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T. Yasuda, H. Mutsuda, N. Mizutani and H. Matsuda: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of breaking waves with spray and entrained air bubbles"Coastal Engineering Journal. Vol. 41, No.3&4. 269-280 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1999 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 松田博文、安田孝志ほか: "突入ジェットと気泡混入を伴う砕波後の内部特性の関係"海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 116-120 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 陸田秀実、河合ひろみ、安田孝志: "C-CUP法による気液界面の直接数値計算"海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 55-59 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 安田孝志、陸田秀実ほか: "トラップ式ダブルリーフの不規則波に対する消波・セットアップ抑制効果"海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 706-710 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 榊原幸雄、安田孝志ほか: "一様傾斜海浜への最適な人工リーフ設置条件"海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 716-720 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 水谷夏樹、安田孝志、小笠原敏記: "孤立波の砕波過程へのk-εモデルの適用と乱流構造に関する研究"海岸工学論文集. 46巻. 156-160 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.YASUDA,H.MUTSUDA et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of breaking waves with spray and air bubbles"The Wind-Driven Air-Sea Interface. 275-276 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 水谷夏樹、安田孝志ほか: "水面波ジェットと突入後の砕波過程との関係について"海岸工学論文集. 46巻. 121-125 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 陸田秀実、安田孝志: "砕波後の気液混相流体場の力学的運動機構に関する数値解析"海岸工学論文集. 46巻. 161-165 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.YASUDA,H.MUTSUDA et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of breaking waves with spray and entrained air bubbles"Coastal Engineering Journal. (in press). (2000)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 松田博文・安田孝志ほか: "突入ジェットと気泡混入を伴う砕波後の内部特性の関係" 海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 116-120 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 陸田秀実・河合ひろみ・安田孝志: "C-CUP法による気液界面の直接数値計算" 海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 55-59 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 安田孝志・陸田秀実ほか: "トラップ式ダブルリーフの不規則波に対する消波・セットアップ抑制効果" 海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 706-710 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 榊原幸雄・安田孝志ほか: "一様傾斜海浜への最適な人工リーフ設置条件" 海岸工学論文集. 45巻. 716-720 (1998)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Yasuda,T.et al.: "Relationships of plunging jet size to kinematics of breaking waves with spray and ntrained air bubbles" Proc.Int.Sympo.Air-Sea Interface. (1999)

    • Related Report
      1998 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1998-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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