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Study on Three-Dimensional Beach Deformation Model for Nonlinear Multi-Directional Random Waves

Research Project

Project/Area Number 11450186
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionThe University of Tokyo

Principal Investigator

WATANABE Akira  Graduate School of Engineering, The University of Tokyo, Professor, 大学院・工学系研究科, 教授 (80011138)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) SASAKI Jun  Graduate School of Frontier Sciences, The University of Tokyo, Associate Professor, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 助教授 (50292884)
SATO Shinji  Graduate School of Engineering, The University of Tokyo, Professor, 大学院・工学系研究科, 教授 (90170753)
ISOBE Masahiko  Graduate School of Frontier Sciences, The University of Tokyo, Professor, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 教授 (20114374)
Project Period (FY) 1999 – 2001
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2001)
Budget Amount *help
¥14,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥14,300,000)
Fiscal Year 2001: ¥2,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,300,000)
Fiscal Year 2000: ¥4,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,200,000)
Fiscal Year 1999: ¥7,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥7,800,000)
KeywordsMulti-directional random waves / Beach deformation / Sand transport rate formula / Wave breaking model / Swash zone / Numerical model / Multi-directional random wave basin / Nonlinear mild slope equation / 海浜流 / 砕波 / 多方向不規則造波装置
Research Abstract

The objective of the present study is to develop an accurate and practical numerical model for three-dimensional beach evolution under nonlinear multi-directional random waves. Nonlinear mild slope equations proposed by Isobe (1994) were adopted as a wave-current model and modified with respect to wave breaking by formulating a breaker-induced energy dissipation term, in which the breaking point can be automatically determined. For the breaking criterion on multi-directional random waves, a prototype of breaking index was proposed by introducing specific parameters for multi-directionality and frequency-wise irregularity. The nearshore boundary condition was also improved to include swash zone dynamics under multi-directional random waves.
The extended Boussinesq-type equations derived by Nwogu (1993) were modified for applications to nearshore waves and currents including surf and swash zones. For a sand transport model, the sheet flow transport rate formula proposed by Dibajnia and Watanabe (1997) was used as a basis, which can determine the net sand transport rate using a set of asymmetric oscillatory flow velocities. The formula was extended to general horizontal plane problems where waves and currents were in the different directions. After predicting the net sand transport rate, the conservation equation of sediment mass was solved to determine the topographic change. The validity of the model was confirmed through comparisons with laboratory data on waves, currents and beach deformation around coastal structures under multi-directional irregular waves.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2001 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2000 Annual Research Report
  • 1999 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (26 results)

All Other

All Publications (26 results)

  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃, 佐藤愼司, 二宮 宗, 高地 潤: "波・流れ共存場における混合砂シートフロー漂砂量の算定式"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 496-500 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 小林 博, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦, 佐藤愼司, 石井敏雅: "多方向不規則波による各種海岸構造物周辺の海浜変形の数値モデル"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 496-500 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Zakaria A.Elnaggar, 渡辺 晃: "砕波帯内外の波動流速の変化と戻り流れの分布の数値計算"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 96-100 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 大橋弘明, 有川太郎, 磯部雅彦, 渡辺 晃: "多方向不規則波の砕波条件に関する実験的研究"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 66-70 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 有川太郎, 磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波・遡上計算モデルの開発,海岸工学論文集"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 186-190 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Dibajnia, Mohammad, Takao Moriya and Akira Watanabe: "A representative wave model for estimation of nearshore local transport rate"Coastal Engineering Journal. Vol.43,No.1. 1-38 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Elnaggar, Zakaria and Akira Watanabe: "Nonlinear wave dynamics in surf and swash zone"Proc. 27^<th> Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.. 664-677 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Watanabe, Akira and Zakaria Elnaggar: "Variation of orbital velocity and undertow in the nearshore zone"Proc. 27^<th> Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.. 769-782 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Aoike, Daisuke, Akira Watanabe and Masahiko Isobe: "A simple method for evaluating undertow velocity distributions over arbitrary beach forms"Proc. 27^<th> Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.. 1282-1292

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kobayashi, Hiroshi, Akira Watanabe, Masahiko Isobe, Shinji Sato and Toshimasa Ishii: "Three-dimensional beach deformation model for nonlinear multi-directional waves"Proc. 27^<th> Int. Conf. Coastal Eng.. 2728-2739

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2001 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃, 佐藤愼司, 二宮 宗, 高地 潤: "波・流れ共存場における混合砂シートフロー漂砂量の算定式"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 496-500 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 小林 博, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦, 佐藤愼司, 石井敏雅: "多方向不規則波による各種海岸構造物周辺の海浜変形の数値モデル"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 496-500 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Zakaria A.Elnaggar, 渡辺晃: "砕波帯内外の波動流速の変化と戻り流れの分布の数値計算"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 96-100 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 大橋弘明, 有川太郎, 磯部雅彦, 渡辺 晃: "多方向不規則波の砕波条件に関する実験的研究"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 66-70 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 有川太郎, 磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波・遡上計算モデルの開発,海岸工学論文集"海岸工学論文集. 第47巻. 186-190 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 大橋弘明,有川太郎,磯部雅彦,渡辺晃: "多方向不規則波の砕波条件に関する実験的研究"海岸工学論文集. 47. 66-70 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 有川太郎,磯部雅彦: "非線形緩勾配方程式を用いた砕波・遡上計算モデルの開発"海岸工学論文集. 47. 186-190 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Zakaria A.Elnaggar,渡辺晃: "砕波帯内外の波動流速の変化と戻り流れの分布の数値計算"海岸工学論文集. 47. 96-100 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 佐藤愼司,田中正博,樋川直樹,渡辺晃,磯部雅彦: "混合砂の移動機構に基づくシートフロー漂砂量算定式の提案"海岸工学論文集. 47. 486-490 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 田中正博,井上亮,佐藤愼司,磯部雅彦,渡辺晃,池野正明,清水隆夫: "2粒径混合砂を用いた大型海浜断面実験と粒径別漂砂量の算出"海岸工学論文集. 47. 551-555 (2000)

    • Related Report
      2000 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Abohadima,S.,M.Isobe: "Linear and nolinear wave diffraction using the nonlinear time dependent mild slope equations"Coastal Engineering. 37. 175-192 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] ZakariaA.Elnaggar、渡辺 晃: "砕波帯・遡上域に適用可能なBoussinesq型波動・乱流モデルの提案"海岸工学論文集. 46. 176-180 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 磯部雅彦、渡辺 晃、小西勇介、都築臨太郎: "曲線型多方向不規則造波装置の開発"海岸工学論文集. 46. 11-15 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃、磯部雅彦、Mohammad Dibajnia、田中正博、植村勇仁: "非対称振動流作用下における混合粒径砂の移動機構に関する研究"海岸工学論文集. 46. 521-525 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃、中村裕史、磯部雅彦: "遡上域を含めた沿岸漂砂量岸沖分布に関する研究"海岸工学論文集. 46. 546-550 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃、青池大介、磯部雅彦: "任意地形上の戻り流れの定量的評価法の提案"海岸工学論文集. 46. 186-190 (1999)

    • Related Report
      1999 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1999-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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