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Role of wave breaking on the growth and decay of wind-waves and the sea surface flux of momentum, heat and gasses such as CO2.

Research Project

Project/Area Number 12304025
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (A)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field Meteorology/Physical oceanography/Hydrology
Research InstitutionKyushu University

Principal Investigator

MASUDA Akira  Kyushu University, Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Prof, 応用力学研究所, 教授 (60091401)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) YASUDA Takashi  Kyushu University, Faculty of Engineering, Prof, 工学部, 教授 (10093329)
MATSUNAGA Nobuhiro  Kyushu University, Interdisciplinary Graduate School, Prof, 総合理工学研究院, 教授 (50157335)
KARASUDANI Takashi  Kyushu University, Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Assoc.Prof, 応用力学研究所, 助教授 (30150527)
UENO Koji  Meteorological College, Assoc.Prof, 気象大学校, 助教授
TANAKA Mitsuhiro  Kyushu University, Faculty of Engineering, Prof, 工学部, 教授 (70163582)
草場 忠夫  九州大学, 応用力学研究所, 助教授 (00037871)
Project Period (FY) 2000 – 2003
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2003)
Budget Amount *help
¥41,990,000 (Direct Cost: ¥35,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥6,990,000)
Fiscal Year 2003: ¥2,860,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,200,000、Indirect Cost: ¥660,000)
Fiscal Year 2002: ¥9,230,000 (Direct Cost: ¥7,100,000、Indirect Cost: ¥2,130,000)
Fiscal Year 2001: ¥18,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥14,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥4,200,000)
Fiscal Year 2000: ¥11,700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥11,700,000)
Keywordsbreaking of wind-waves / surface coverage of white cap / swell effect on wind-waves / sea surface flux of CO2 / numerical simulation of waves / sea surface roughness and drag coefficient / turbulence beneath the sea surface / spectral evolution of wind-waves and swell / 風波の破砕と側帯波不安定 / 海面境界過程と物質輸送 / 水中・気中の二酸化炭素濃度 / 水面下のラグランジュ循環流 / 風洞水槽実験 / 風波のスペクトル発展 / 大気境界層と海面下の乱流 / 水面下のラングミュア循環 / 現地海洋観測 / 大気境界と海面下の乱流
Research Abstract

1.[swell and wind-waves]
(1)Swell propagating with wind is known to suppress the growth of wind-waves. The suppression rate calculated based on the recently proposed hypothesis of Chen and Belcher was found to agree well with the result of the laboratory experiment, though careful verification is necessary. (2)A new term of swell dissipation was introduced to the operating MRI wave model. This term proved to much improve the accuracy of wave prediction off Hawaii in the Pacific, where most wave models have failed to predict the swell well so far.
2.[wave breaking and water turbulence]
(1)The surface flow was observed in a thin layer that is about twice as thick as the significant wave height under strong wind and intense wave breaking. A new model of the vertical distribution of surface flow was proposed based on that measurement. (2)As regards the dissipation of wave energy, a simple model of wave breaking was incorporated into a numerical model for the direct numerical simulation of irr … More otational waves. That model yielded an estimate of energy dissipation that is compared favorably with laboratory experiments and wave prediction models.
3.[whitecap]
Wave breaking is detected by a visible phenomenon of "whitecap". Based on the observation under various wind-sea conditions, whitecap coverage was confirmed to increase rapidly with the third power of wind velocity. Also whitecap coverage was found relatively high for (1)unstable density stratification, (2)decaying waves, and (3)wind-waves unaffected by swell.
4.[CO2 concentration and flux ]
(1)Daily variation and regional characteristics of atmospheric CO2 concentration was observed at Tsushima and Shikanoshima in the Eastern Tsushima Strait. (2)It was pointed out that correction due to the effect of vapor and temperature is necessary when eddy-correlation method is used to measure the CO2 flux in summer. (3)In a wind flume, CO2 flux across the water surface was measured accurately. Gas exchange velocity was found to depend not only on the wind velocity, but also on the fetch and a new empirical formula was proposed to express the fetch-dependence of the gas exchange velocity.
5.[momentum flux : wave effect on the drag coefficient and roughness length of sea surface]
(1) A non-dimensional formula of the roughness of water surface waves that takes into account surface tension and viscosity was proposed based on laboratory experiments of high accuracy. (2)Momentum flux above the sea surface was measured at a sea station by simultaneous application of eddy-correlation, inertial dissipation and, profile methods in order to guarantee the reliability. Then a new comprehensive formula was proposed to explain the various previous formulas of roughness length that have seemed even contradictory with one another, in particular as regards the dependence on wind-waves. Less

Report

(5 results)
  • 2003 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2002 Annual Research Report
  • 2001 Annual Research Report
  • 2000 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (66 results)

All Other

All Publications (66 results)

  • [Publications] Ueno, K., M.Deushi: "A new empirical formula for the aerodynamic roughness of water surface waves"Journal of Oceanography. 59. 819-831 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 鵜崎健一, 松永信博: "補償流を伴わない吹送流におけるラングミュア循環流の特性"海岸工学論文集. 50. 421-425 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 小笠原敏紀, 久保田踊児, 安田孝志: "白波砕波を伴う強風時吹送流の平均水面直下の鉛直分布とそのモデル"海岸工学論文集. 50. 351-355 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 烏谷隆, 片山博之, 渡辺公彦: "夏季海上における渦相関法に対する熱輸送効果の評価"九州大学応用力学研究所所報. 125. 1-4 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 鵜崎健一, 池畑義人, 松永信博: "リジッド・サーフィス・モデルによる1対のラングミュアー循環流のLES"水工学論文集. 47. 1303-1308 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 田中光宏, 横山直人: "水面波動乱流の数値的研究におけるスペクトルの離散化の影響について"京都大学数理解析研究所講究録「非線形波動現象の数理とその応用」. 1311. 40-51 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 杉原裕司, 増田章: "風波気液界面を通しての二酸化炭素交換量の測定"海岸工学論文集. 50. 101-105 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 石橋道芳, 丸林賢次, 渡辺公彦: "ロータリーエンコーダーを使用した風速計の変換回路"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 35-38 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 石橋道芳, 丸林賢次: "炭酸ガス計測のための空気取り入れ口について-大気中の炭酸ガス濃度変化の長期計測-"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 16-22 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 杉原裕司, 古寺大悟, 大賀崇史, 増田章: "風波気液界面におけるCO2交換速度の評価"水工学論文集. 48. 511-516 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 杉原裕司, 津守博通, 古寺大悟, 吉岡洋, 芹澤重厚, 増田章: "海面画像計測による白波被覆率の評価"九州大学総合理工学報告. 25. 405-412 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "Effects of discretization of the spectrum in water-wave turbulence"Fluid Dynamics Research. (in press). (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 増田 章, 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 奥野 章: "津屋崎沖観測塔で観測した海上風乱流 I.計測法と予備解析"応用力学研究所所報. 126. 23-39 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳: "水中のCO2計測装置の試作"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 21-28 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 渡辺公彦: "小型三杯型風速計の試作-エンコーダーを使用した風速計-"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 29-34 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 渡辺公彦: "海上観測タワーでの計測について"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 39-48 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ueno, K., M.Deushi: "Anew empirical formula for the aerodynamic roughness of water surface waves."Journal of Oceanography. 59. 819-831 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Uzaki, K., N.Matsunaga: "The characteristics of Langmuir circulations induced in wind-driven currents with no return flow(in Japanese)."Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 50. 421-425 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ogasawara, T., Y.Kubota, T.Yasuda: "Vertical distributions of horizontal velocities of currents driven by strong winds and their modeling(in Japanese)."Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 50. 351-355 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Karasudani, T., H.Katayama, K.Watanabe: "Estimation of the effect of heat transport on, eddy correlation method for the flux of carbon dioxide(in Japanese)."Reports of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics Kyushu University. 125. 1-4 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Uzaki, K., Y.Ikehata, N.Matsunaga: "Large eddy simulation of a pair of Langmuir circulations by a rigid surface model(in Japanese)."Annual Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, JSCE. 47. 1303-1308 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "On the effects of discretization of the spectrum in the numerical simulation of water-wave turbulence(in Japanese)."RIMS kokyuroku. 1311. 40-51 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tsumori, H., Y.Sugihara, A.Masuda: "Measurement of the flux of carbon dioxide across the surface of wind waves(in Japanese)."Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 50. 101-105 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ishibasbi, M., K.Marubayashi, K.Watanabe: "A cartridge circuit for an anemometer using encoders(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 35-38 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ishibashi, M., K.Marubayashi: "On the air inlet for long-term monitoring of the concentration of carbon dioxide(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 16-22 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tsumori, H., Y.Sugihara, D.Furutera, T.Ohga, A.Masuda: "Parameterization for the local gas transfer velocity of carbon dioxide at the surface of wind wave(in Japanese)."Annual Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, JSCE. 48. 511-516 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Sugihara, Y., H.Tsumori, D.Furutera, H.Yoshioka, S.Serizawa, A.Masuda: "Estimation of whitecap coverage from digital images of sea surface(in Japanese)."Engineering Sciences Reports, Kyushu University. 25. 405-412 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "Effects of discretization of the spectrum in water-wave turbulence."Fluid Dynamics Research. (in press). (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Masuda, A., K.Marubayashi, M.Ishibashi, A.Okuno: "Wind turbulence over the sea surface measured at the Tsuyazaki Station, I Method of measurement and preliminary analysis(in Japanese)."Reports of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 126. 23-39 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Marubayashi, K., M. shibashi: "Development of an instrument for measuring the concentration of carbon dioxide in water(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 21-28 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Marubayashi, K., M.Ishibashi, K.Watanabe: "Development of a compact anemometer of cup-type using encoders(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 29-34 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Marubayashi, K., M.Ishibashi, K.Watanabe: "The system for measuring wind turbulence at the Sea Observation Station off Tsuyazaki(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 39-48 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ueno, K., M.Deushi: "A new empirical formula for the aerodynamic roughness of water surface waves"Journal of Oceanography. 59. 819-831 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 鵜崎健一, 池畑義人, 松永信博: "補償流を伴わない吹送流におけるラングミュア循環流の特性"海岸工学論文集. 50. 421-425 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 小笠原敏紀, 久保田踊児, 安田孝志: "白波砕波を伴う強風時吹送流の平均水面直下の鉛直分布とそのモデル"海岸工学論文集. 50. 351-355 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 烏谷隆, 片山博之, 渡辺公彦: "夏季海上における渦相関法に対する熱輸送効果の評価"九州大学応用力学研究所所報. 125. 1-4 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "Effects of discretization of the spectrum in water-wave turbulence"Fluid Dynamics Research. (in press). (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 田中光宏, 横山直人: "水面波動乱流の数値的研究におけるスペクトルの離散化の影響について"京都大学数理解析研究所講究禄「非線形波動現象の数理とその応用」. vol1311. 40-51 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 杉原裕司, 増田章: "風波気液界面を通しての二酸化炭素交換量の測定"海岸工学論文集. 50. 101-105 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 石橋道芳, 丸林賢次, 渡辺公彦: "ロータリーエンコーダーを使用した風速計の交換回路"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 35-38 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 石橋道芳, 丸林賢次: "炭酸ガス計測のための空気取り入れ口について -大気中の炭酸ガス濃度変化の長期計測-"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 16-22 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 杉原裕司, 古寺大悟, 大賀崇史, 増田章: "風波気液界面におけるCO2交換速度の評価"水工学論文集. 48. 511-516 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 杉原裕司, 津守博通, 古寺大悟, 吉岡洋, 芹澤重厚, 増田章: "海面画像計測による空波被覆率の評価"九州大学総合理工学報告. 25(in press). (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 鵜崎健一, 池畑義人, 松永信博: "リジッド・サーフィス・モデルによる1対のラングミュアー循環流のLES"水工学論文集. 47. 1303-1308 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 増田 章, 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 奥野 章: "津屋崎沖観測塔で観測した海上風乱流I.計測法と予備解析"応用力学研究所所報. 126. 23-39 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳: "水中のCO2計測装置の試作"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 21-28 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 渡辺公彦: "小型三杯型風速計の試作 -エンコーダーを使用した風速計-"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 29-34 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 渡辺公彦: "海上観測タワーでの計測について"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 39-48 (2004)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] T.Ogasawara et al.: "Roles of wind wave breakers in momentum transfer processes from wind to currents and turbulence"Proc. 12^<th> Int. Offshore and Polar Eng. Conf., Kitakyushu. 85-91 (2002)

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      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] A.Masuda et al.: "Experiment of side-band instability for surface waves generated mechanically-fine structure and amplitude vacillation seeded by seiches"Proc. 12^<th> Int. Offshore and Polar Eng. Conf., Kitakyushu. 203-210 (2002)

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      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 松永信博, ほか: "吹送流中に生起する二次循環流の研究"土木学会論文集. 第705/11-19号. 67-82 (2002)

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      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 小笠原敏記, ほか: "吹送流の乱流構造と砕波によって生成される乱流成分について"海岸工学論文集. 第49巻. 326-330 (2002)

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      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 古寺大悟, 杉原裕司: "風波パラメータを用いたガス交換係数の実験式"海岸工学論文集. 第49巻. 86-90 (2002)

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      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 烏谷 隆: "対馬・志賀島における二酸化炭素計測"九州大学応用力学研究所所報. 第124号. 39-41 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 小松幸生, 増田 章: "沿岸域における風波成分波間の非線形エネルギー伝達"水産総合研究センター報告. Vol.1. 7-21 (2001)

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      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] M.Tanaka: "Verification of Hasselmann's energy transfer among surface gravity waves by direct numerical simulations of primitive equations"Journal of fluid Mechanics. Vol.444. 199-221 (2001)

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      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] K.Isaka, T.Yasuda, N.Mizutani: "Characteristics of water surface bursting layer with intensive turbulence generated by winds and breakers"Proc. of 8th Intl. Symp. Flow Modeling and Turbulence Measurements, IAHR, Tokyo. (in press). (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 松永信博, 鵜崎賢一, 浦上由紀子: "吹送流中の二次循環流の形成に果たす風波の役割"海岸工学論文集. Vol.48. 376-380 (2001)

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      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 杉原裕司, 津守博通: "気液界面における表面更新乱流の特性"水工学論文集. Vol.46. 529-534 (2002)

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      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 草場忠夫, 増田章, 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳: "津屋崎観測塔における海上風の計測"九州大学応用力学研究所所報. Vol.122. 37-42 (2002)

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  • [Publications] 草場忠夫,増田章,小松幸生,高野洋雄,植野耕治: "日本海中央部の海上風と有義波の変動特性"九州大学大学院総合理工学報告. 22巻・1号. 35-41 (2000)

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  • [Publications] Y.Ohya,T.Karasudani And T.Uchida: "Wind tunnel study of various stable boundary layers-The effects of temperature profiles on SBL flow structures-"Proc.of 14th Symposium on boundary layers and turbulence. 614-617 (2000)

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  • [Publications] N.Matsunaga,M.Hashida,M.Kodama and O.Katsuki: "Field observations of sea-salt quantity transported landward by winter Monsoon"Proc.of international conference on coastal engineering. (CD-ROM版). (2000)

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  • [Publications] 杉原裕司,高崎敦彦,松永信博: "k-ε乱流モデルによる風波下の乱流構造の解析"海岸工学論文集. 47巻. 116-120 (2000)

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  • [Publications] 水谷夏樹,安田孝志: "リーフ上の孤立波の微小砕波と崩れ波型砕波への遷移過程"海岸工学論文集. 47巻. 151-155 (2000)

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  • [Publications] M.Tanaka: "A method of studying nonlinear random field of surface gravity waves by direct numerical simulation"Fluid Dynamics Research. 28巻. 41-60 (2001)

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Published: 2000-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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