| Budget Amount *help |
¥6,700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥6,700,000)
Fiscal Year 2001: ¥1,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,300,000)
Fiscal Year 2000: ¥5,400,000 (Direct Cost: ¥5,400,000)
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| Research Abstract |
We try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body type for young men using a computer program that we created for this purpose. In our study, we examined clothing-pattern making from the point of view of two factors : "angle" and "line length" of the 3D torso surface and the tight-fitting bodice. The central problem of the pattern-making is to create a three-dimensional body. Therefore, we investigated the deficiency factor on both a two-dimensional developed pattern on 3D bodies. On the developed pattern, we studied it as 'deficit angles', while on 3D bodies, it appeared as 'gap length' on the pattern measurement lines.
At first, for a clear understanding of male 3D surface, we compared the torso shape of females (n = 203) and males (n = 101) using the Concentrated Gaussian Curvature Kc (deficit angle = 2π-θ) of the vertices on interior triangle-meshed surface and Concentrated Geodesic Curvature Kc (π-θ) on the vertices of exterior boundary lines. If Kc of an arbitrary poin
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t (vertex) on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said to be a plane and developable one. On a curved surface, Kc is not zero. The sum of two integrated values, Kc of the inside surface shape and kc on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2π and the Euler number. The sum of those two curvatures in the torso surface of each female (n=203) and of each male (n=101) was the same value (-2 × 2π). Due to this, we were able to compare the torso shapes between males and females, regardless of size. The main features of the male torso shape are the back, shoulder, and side surface, and that of the female torso shapes is the bust surface. Although the male torso has a developable surface, the main features differ considerably between each person. Therefore, it is necessary to use high level techniques and technology for male pattern-making. One method for 3D pattern-making, without the draping, is using a computer programmed with the convex method to automatically design 3D bodice patterns which would cover the male torsos (n = 150). We call that 3D bodice the 'convex hull bodices', and examined them using Kc, kc, and Mean Curvature Hc, which refers to be convex or concave surfaces. The Kc values of the convex hull bodices are smaller than those of the torsos, therefore their kc values are large. As with the Kc values, the Hc values are also smaller than those of the torsos. The 3 curvature values of the convex hull bodices are classified using the principal component analysis by correlation. In addition, the combination factors of six areas and three lines were classified. We were able to easily construct a tight-fitting bodice using a computer program to do 3D draping. The system aided us visually understand features of the surface shape through color-graded map displaying curvatures and gap values (volume).
Next, we examined the features of the tight-fitting pattern (T-pattern) of females (n = 203) and males (n = 151) using the gap length and Kc values. The factors for making the T-pattern shape were found using the classing the principal component anarisis of the Kc values. Like the above 3D draping technique, drafting pattern-making using the estimated gap lengths may also be finished with aid a computer.
As the result of the two examinations using the "angle" and the "line length" on both of the 3D torso surface and the tight-fitting bodice, we are able to take the automatically pattern-making for both the 3D draping and the drafting according to the types of the body shape. Less
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