| Budget Amount *help |
¥1,100,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,100,000)
Fiscal Year 2002: ¥600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥600,000)
Fiscal Year 2001: ¥500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥500,000)
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| Research Abstract |
It is important to estimate accurately the incident waves to beaches which suffer from severe erosion. In the practical work against beach erosion, a given wave condition like design wave is employed. Thus, it is difficult to predict dynamic behaviors of beached under the excitations of short-term storm waves like Typhoon waves. Also, it may be hard to estimate restoring process of eroded beaches during mild wave conditions. Estimating such phenomena, unsteady wave condition should be taken into account. The driving force of waves is mainly winds over sea. Thus, it is important to investigate wind fields over sea. Based on such background, this study is intended to establish the numerical computation scheme to predict time and space variations of wind field over sea area. In the computation, meteorological data like atmospheric pressure is employed. The data has been given by GPV. Then, the estimation method of the waves from computed wind field has been proposed. Moreover, the field data of wind and waves obtained at Shirahama and Enshunada have been analyzed. Trough the investigation of the field data of wind and waves, a lot of new relationship has been found out. These results are used in the estimation technique of the waves from computed wind field.
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