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Development of a beach deformation model based on transport mechanisms of mixed grain size sands due to waves and currents

Research Project

Project/Area Number 13450201
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionThe University of Tokyo

Principal Investigator

SATO Shinji  The University of Tokyo, Civil, Professor, 大学院・工学系研究科, 教授 (90170753)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) KOIBUCHI Yukio  The University of Tokyo, Graduate School of Frontier Science, Assistant Professor, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 講師 (60349800)
ISOBE Masahiko  The University of Tokyo, Graduate School of Frontier Science, Professor, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 教授 (20114374)
WATANABE Akira  The University of Tokyo, Civil, Professor, 大学院・工学系研究科, 教授 (80011138)
HONDA Takahide  The University of Tokyo, Civil, Research Associate, 大学院・工学系研究科, 助手 (70361524)
佐々木 淳  東京大学, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 助教授 (50292884)
Project Period (FY) 2001 – 2003
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2003)
Budget Amount *help
¥9,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥9,800,000)
Fiscal Year 2003: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Fiscal Year 2002: ¥1,500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,500,000)
Fiscal Year 2001: ¥7,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥7,300,000)
KeywordsSediments / Beach deformation / Waves and Currents / Beach process / Sheet-flow sediment transport rate / 混合砂礫
Research Abstract

Most of existing beach deformation models have been developed on the assumption of uniform sediments and therefore failed to simulate the transport as well as the deformation of mixed grain size sands. The objective of this study was to establish a beach deformation model of the mixed grain size sand applicable to the actual field.
In the surf zone, atilted waves and the undertow are developed significantly. By performing a series of laboratory experiments in an oscillatory flow tank, we observed transport mechanisms of the mixed grain size sands and obtained numerous data of the sediment transport rate for the condition of the atilted waves including currents. The results showed the coarsening and the -mixing on the surface layer. From these, we successfully developed a sand transport model considering the interference mechanisms of the different grain size sand and the applicability to the prototype scales.
Moreover, we proposed a numerical model of beach deformation of the mixed grain size sand combining the sand transport model with waves and currents models. The validity of the model was verified with laboratory experiments in a wave basin for the conditions of a detached breakwater and groins.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2003 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2002 Annual Research Report
  • 2001 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (40 results)

All Other

All Publications (40 results)

  • [Publications] Kobayashi, H., A.Watanabe, M.Isobe, S.Sato, T.Ishii: "Three-dimensional beach deformation model for nonlinear multi-directional waves"Proc.Conf.on Coastal Eng.. 27. 2728-2739 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Takagi, T., S.Sato, K.Yamamoto, W.Sakurai, U.Murano, Y.Atsuzaka, Y.Ding: "Performance of gravel nourishment for erosion control at Fuji coast"Proc.Conf. on Coastal Eng.. 27. 3333-3344 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 佐藤愼司, 田中正博, 樋川直樹, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦: "混合砂の移動機構に基づくシートフロー漂砂量算定式の提案"海岸工学論文集. 47. 486-490 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 田中正博, 井上 亮, 佐藤愼司, 磯部雅彦, 渡辺 晃, 池野正明, 清水隆夫: "2粒径混合砂を用いた大型海浜断面実験と粒径別漂砂量の算出"海岸工学論文集. 47. 551-555 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 田中正博, 佐藤愼司, 磯部雅彦, 渡辺 晃, 小林 博: "2粒径混合砂海浜変形モデルを用いた大型海浜断面実験の再現"海岸工学論文集. 47. 591-595 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃, 佐藤愼司, 二宮 宗, 高地 潤: "波・流れ共存場における混合砂シートフロー漂砂量の算定式"海岸工学論文集. 48. 496-500 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 田中正博, 小林博, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺晃, 磯部雅彦: "断面地形表層粗細混合率を考慮した海浜変化計算"海岸工学論文集. 48. 506-510 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 小林 博, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦, 佐藤愼司, 石井雅敏: "多方向不規則波による各種海岸構造物周辺の海浜変形の数値モデル"海岸工学論文集. 48. 566-570 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 鳥居謙一, 福島雅紀, 佐藤愼司, 高木利光, Ding Yan: "海岸管理のための汀線変動量の確率的評価"海岸工学論文集. 48. 1021-1025 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ahmed, A.S.M., S.Sato: "Investigation of bottom boundary layer dynamics of movable bed by using enhanced PIV technique"Coastal Engineering Journal. Vol.43, No.4. 239-258 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 高地 潤, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺 晃: "前傾化した波と流れによるシートフロー漂砂量"海岸工学論文集. 49. 426-430 (2002)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 小林 博, 本田隆英, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦, 石井敏雅: "波の前傾化と混合粒径底質の分級を考慮した3次元海浜変形シミュレーション"土木学会論文集. No.740/II-64. 157-169 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 本田隆英, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺晃, 磯部雅彦: "遡上域を含む混合粒径底質海浜の三次元海浜変形モデル"海岸工学論文集. 50. 511-515 (2002)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Honda, T., H.Kobayashi, S.Sato, A.Watanabe, M.Isobe, T.Ishii: "A numerical model of three-dimensional beach deformation due to graded sediment transport under atilt waves"APAC. (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kobayashi, H., A.Watanabe, M.Isobe, S.Sato, T.Ishii: "Three-dimensional beach deformation model for nonlinear multi-directional waves"Proc.27th Conf.on Coastal Eng.. 2728-2739 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Takagi, T., S.Sato, K.Yamamoto, W.Sakurai, U.Murano, Y.Atsuzaka, Y.Ding: "Performance of gravel nourishment for erosion control at Fuji coast"Proc.27th Conf, on Coastal Eng.. 3333-3344 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Sato, S., M.Tanaka, N.Hikawa, A.Watanabe, M.Isobe: "Development of a Sheetflow Transport Model Based on the Mechanisms of Mixed Grain Size Sand"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 47. 486-490 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., R.Inoue, S.Sato, M.Isobe, A.Watanabe, M.Ikeno, T.Shimizu: "Large Wave Tank Experiments on Profile Change and Cross-Shore Sand Transport Rate of Mixed Grain Size Beach"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 47. 551-555 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., S.Sato, M.Isobe, A.Watanabe, H.Kobayashi: "Simulation of Large Wave Tank Experiments on Beach Deformation by Using a Transport Model for Mixed Grain Size Sands"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 47. 591-595 (2000)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Watanabe, A., S.Sato, S.Ninomiya, J.Kochi: "A Sheet-Flow Transport Rate Formula for Mixed Grain Size Sands in Wave-Current Coexistent Field"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 48. 496-500 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., H.Kobayashi, S.Sato, A.Watanabe, M.Isobe: "Effect of Sands Mixing Ratio on Deformation of Beach Profile"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 48. 506-510 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kobayashi, H., A.Watanabe, M.Isobe, S.Sato, T.Ishii: "Numerical Modeling of Beach Deformation around Coastal Structures by Multi-Directional Irregular Waves"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 48. 566-570 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Torii, K., M.Fukushima, S.Sato, T.Takagi, D.Yang: "Probabilistic Estimation of the Shoreline Variation for the Purpose of Coastal Management"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 48. 1021-1025 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ahmed, A.S.M, S.Sato: "Investigation of bottom boundary layer dynamics of movable bed by using enhanced PIV technique"Coastal Engineering Journal. Vol.43, No.4. 239-258 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kochi, J., S.Sato, A.Watanabe: "Sheetflow Transport Rate due to Atilt Waves and Currents"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 49. 426-430 (2002)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kobayashi, H., T.Honda, S.Sato, A.Watanabe, M.Isobe, T.Ishii: "A numerical model of three-dimensional beach deformation due to graded sediment transport under atilt waves"Proc.of JSCE. No.740/II-64. 157-169 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Honda, T., S.Sato, A.Watanabe, M.Isobe: "A Numerical Model of Three-Dimensional Beach Deformation due to Graded Sediment Transport in Nearshore and Swash Zone"Proc.Coastal Eng.. 50. 511-515 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Honda, T., H.Kobayashi, S.Sato, A.Watanabe, M.Isobe, T.Ishii: "A numerical model of three-dimensional beach deformation due to graded sediment transport under atilt waves"APAC2003. (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2003 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Ahmed, A.S.M., S.Sato: "A sheetflow transport model for asymmetric oscillatory flows, Part I : Uniform grain size sediments"Coastal Eng.Journal. Vol.45, No.3. 321-337 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Ahmed, A.S.M., S.Sato: "A sheetflow transport model for asymmetric oscillatory flows, Part II : Mixed grain size sediments"Coastal Eng.Journal. Vol.45, No.3. 339-361 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 小林 博, 本田隆英, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺晃, 磯部雅彦, 石井雅敏: "波の前傾化と混合粒径底質の分級を考慮した3次元海浜変形シミュレーション"土木学会論文集. No.740/II-64. 157-169 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 本田隆英, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦: "遡上域を含む混合粒径底質海浜の三次元海浜変形モデル"海岸工学論文集. 第50巻. 511-515 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 高地潤, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺晃: "前傾化した波と流れによるシートフロー漂砂量"海岸工学論文集. 49. 426-430 (2002)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] A.Watanabe, S.Sato: "A sheet-flow transport rate formula for mixed-size sands in compound oscillatory-steady flow"Proc. 28th. International Conference on Coastal Engineering. 28(印刷中). (2002)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 熊亜希子, 佐藤愼司, 磯部雅彦: "浅海域における多方向不規則波の砕波限界に関する研究"海岸工学論文集. 49. 156-160 (2002)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 阿部真人, 福山貴子, 佐藤愼司, 磯部雅彦, 熊谷隆宏: "鮫川河口砂州の変形と勿来海岸の地形変化過程に関する現地観測"海岸工学論文集. 49. 531-535 (2002)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] S.Sato, M.isobe, T.Sekimoto, K.Torii, K.Yamamoto: "Field investigation on coastal morphological processes of the South Kashimanada coast"Proc. 28th. International Conference on Coastal Engineering. 28(印刷中). (2002)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 渡辺 晃, 佐藤愼司, 二宮 宗, 高地 潤: "波・流れ共存場における混合砂シートフロー漂砂量の算定式"海岸工学論文集. 48. 496-500 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 田中正博, 小林 博, 佐藤愼司, 渡辺 晃, 磯部雅彦: "断面地形表層粗細混合率を考慮した海浜変化計算"海岸工学論文集. 48. 506-510 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Ahmed, A.S.M., S.Sato: "Investigation of bottom boundary layer dynamics of movable bed by using enhanced PIV technique"Coastal Engineering Journal. 43・4. 239-258 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report

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Published: 2001-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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