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Deformation of Wave Groups and Long-Period Waves over a Sloping Beach

Research Project

Project/Area Number 13650567
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionNagoya Institute of Technology

Principal Investigator

KIOKA Wataru  Nagoya Institute of Technology, Department of Architecture and Civil Engineering, Professor, 大学院・工学研究科, 教授 (10135402)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) KITANO Toshikazu  Nagoya Institute of Technology, Department of Architecture and Civil Engineering, Associate Professor, 工学部, 助教授 (00284307)
Project Period (FY) 2001 – 2002
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2002)
Budget Amount *help
¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Fiscal Year 2002: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
KeywordsWave Group / Nonlinear Wave / Spectral Band / Envelope Wave / Long-Period Wave / Demodulation
Research Abstract

Evolution of strongly nonlinear wave groups of various initial envelope shapes is investigated experimentally and numerically. Experiments with five different shapes of wave groups are carried out over the bottom slope of 1 : 30. The first wave group consists of a simple bimodal spectrum while the second and third groups have a set of discrete frequencies. The fourth groups are widely separated and have a Gaussian shaped spectrum. The fifth groups consist of a rectangular shaped spectrum. The effective water depth is 0.5m in the vicinity of the wavemaker, so that all the waves propagate over the critical dimensionless water depth kh=1.36. It is found that the wave groups propagating over the slope undergo modulation and subsequent demodulation. For the strongly nonlinear waves, the wave, energy tends to spread more uniformly over the group. The wave groups having the same shape but different spectral components tend to undergo nearly identical evolution of spectra.
The numerical model is based on the third-order Zakharov integral equation. As in the work of Shemer et al. (2001) the Zakharov nonlinear equation is rewritten in the form of spatial Zakharov equation. This spatial Zakharov equation constitutes a reasonable model for shoaling of nonlinear wave groups over a sloping beach, even for the groups having very large initial wave steepness.

Report

(3 results)
  • 2002 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2001 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (20 results)

All Other

All Publications (20 results)

  • [Publications] Akter Hossain: "沖浜における長周期波の挙動"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 271-275 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Mohammad Dibajnia: "可視化手法による波群の遡上運動の内部機構解明"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 486-490 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 北野利一: "時間領域における入反射分離の試み"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 166-170 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Akter Hossain: "Behavior of Long-Period Waves in the Nearshore Region"Proc. 1st Asian and Pacific Coastal Engineering Conference. Vol.1. 379-389 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T.Kitano: "Time Domain Decomposition of Incident and Reflected Waves"Proc. 28th Int. Conf. on Coastal Engineering,. Vol.2. 1697-1708 (2002)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 喜岡 渉: "高波浪時における浪群および長周期波の伝播変形"海岸工学論文集. 第50巻(印刷中). (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Hossain,A.: "Separation of Long-Wave Components in the Nearshore Zone"Proc.Coastal Eng., JSCE. Vol.48. 271-275 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Dibajnia,M.: "Kinematics of Swash Oscillations for Wave Groups Based on PIV Measurements"Proc.Coastal Eng., JSCE. Vol.48. 486-490 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kitano,T.: "Time Domain Analysis of Incident and Reflected Wave Decomposition"Proc.Coastal Eng., JSCE. Vol.48. 166-170 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Hossain,A.: "Behavior of Long-Period Waves in the Nearshore Region"Proc.1st Asian and Pacific Coastal Engineering Conf.. Vol.1. 379-389 (2001)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kitano,T.: "Time Domain Decomposition of Incident and Reflected Waves"Proc.28th Int.Conf.on Coastal Eng.. Vol.2. 1697-1708 (2002)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Kioka,W.: "Evolution of a Strongly Nonlinear Wave Group and Its Associated Long-Period Wave"Proc.Coastal Eng., JSCE. Vol.50(in press). (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2002 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Akter Hossin: "沖浜における長周期波の挙動"海岸工学論文集. 48. 271-275 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Mohamad Dibajnia: "可視化手法による波群の遡上運動の内部機構解明"海岸工学論文集. 48. 486-490 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 北野利一: "時間領域における入反射分離の試み"海岸工学論文集. 48. 168-170 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Akter Hossin: "Behavior of Long-Period Waves in the Nearshore Region"Proc. 1st Asian Pacific Coastal Engineering Conference. Vol.1. 379-389 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2002 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Akter Hossain: "沖浜における長周期波の挙動"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 271-275 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Mohammad Dibajnia: "可視化手法による波群の遡上運動の内部機構解明"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 486-490 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 北野利一: "時間領域における入反射分離の試み"海岸工学論文集. 第48巻. 166-170 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Akter Hossain: "Behavior of Long-Period Waves in the Nearshore Region"Proc.1st Asian and Pacific Coastal Engineering Conference. Vol.1. 379-389 (2001)

    • Related Report
      2001 Annual Research Report

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Published: 2002-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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