Boussinesq-type Modeling of Destructive Surf Beat over a Fringing Reef during Typhoon Haiyan

• Project/Area Number: 15K06224
• Research Category: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• Allocation Type: Multi-year Fund
• Section: 一般
• Research Field: Hydraulic engineering
• Research Institution: Tohoku University
• Principal Investigator: Roeber Volker 東北大学, 災害科学国際研究所, シニア研究員 (60725240)
• Co-Investigator(Renkei-kenkyūsha): Bricker Jeremy 東北大学, 災害科学国際研究所, 准教授 (20645098)
• Project Period (FY): 2015-10-21 – 2018-03-31
• Project Status: Completed (Fiscal Year 2017)
• Budget Amount: ¥4,550,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,500,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,050,000); Fiscal Year 2017: ¥130,000 (Direct Cost: ¥100,000、Indirect Cost: ¥30,000); Fiscal Year 2016: ¥1,820,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,400,000、Indirect Cost: ¥420,000); Fiscal Year 2015: ¥2,600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥600,000)
• Keywords: Typhoon / swell / infragravity wave / surf beat / beach erosion / numerical modeling / Sendai Port / Boussinesq equation / typhoon / Boussinesq / infragravity / tsunami waves / typhoon waves / fringing reef / numerical model

Outline of Final Research Achievements

The research for this study has lead to a detailed investigation of coastal flooding from a variety of different scenarios. We have analysed the importance of offshore wave conditions, local bathymetry, and tidal fluctuations. Infragravity wave hotspots tend to form in areas with intense wave breaking. These are also areas where coastal erosion can be high -given that the surf and swash zone is composed of erodible material. Tidal fluctuations can modulate the surf zone processes. Though wave runup is usually highest at high water levels, infragravity waves can be highest at low to intermediate water levels. This has to do with the intensity of wave breaking. Under some low to intermediate water levels, wave breaking happens more abruptly than during high water stage. This can lead to higher levels of infragravity wave energy, which is the driving component for sediment transport. flooding and shoreline changes.

Research Products

• [Journal Article] Probabilistic mapping of storm-induced coastal inundation for climate change adaptation (2018)
  • Author(s): Li Ning、Yamazaki Yoshiki、Roeber Volker、Cheung Kwok Fai、Chock Gary
  • Journal Title: Coastal Engineering Volume: 133 Pages: 126-141
  • DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.12.013
  • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
• [Journal Article] HIGH-FREQUENCY BEACH MONITORING WITH UAV PHOTOGRAMMETRY (2017)
  • Author(s): 鈴木 彰容, 三戸部 佑太, 田中 仁, Volker ROEBER
  • Journal Title: Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) Volume: 73 Issue: 2 Pages: I_661-I_666
  • DOI: 10.2208/kaigan.73.I_661
  • NAID: 130006171954
  • ISSN: 1883-8944, 1884-2399
  • Peer Reviewed
• [Journal Article] NUMERICAL ANALYSIS AND FIELD SURVEY OF THE 2016 FUKUSHIMA EARTHQUAKE AND TSUNAMI (2017)
  • Author(s): Anawat SUPPASRI, 山下 啓, Panon LATCHAROTE, Volker ROEBER, 林 晃大, 大平 浩之, 福井 謙太朗, 久松 明史, 今村 文彦
  • Journal Title: Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) Volume: 73 Issue: 2 Pages: I_1597-I_1602
  • DOI: 10.2208/kaigan.73.I_1597
  • NAID: 130006171839
  • ISSN: 1883-8944, 1884-2399
  • Peer Reviewed
• [Journal Article] Generation and propagation of ship-borne waves - Solutions from a Boussinesq-type model (2017)
  • Author(s): David C. Gabriel、Roeber Volker、Goseberg Nils、Schlurmann Torsten
  • Journal Title: Coastal Engineering Volume: 127 Pages: 170-187
  • DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.07.001
  • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
• [Journal Article] Results of the 2015 NTHMP Model Benchmarking Workshop (2017)
  • Author(s): Lynett, P.J., Roeber, V., Heitmann, T.W., Cheung, K.F., David, C.G., Bricker, J.D., et al.
  • Journal Title: Ocean Modelling Volume: 5 Pages: 1-15
  • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
• [Journal Article] Performance of models for flash flood warning and hazard assessment: the 2015 Kali Gandaki landslide breach in Nepal (2017)
  • Author(s): Bricker, J.D., Schwanghart, W., Adhikari, B.R., Moriguchi, S., Roeber, V., Giri,. S.
  • Journal Title: Mountain Research and Development Volume: 37 Issue: 1 Pages: 5-15
  • DOI: 10.1659/mrd-journal-d-16-00043.1
  • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
• [Journal Article] The 2016 Fukushima Earthquake and Tsunami: Preliminary research and new considerations for tsunami disaster risk reduction (2017)
  • Author(s): Suppasri, A., Leelawat, N., Latcharote, P., Roeber, V., Yamashita, K., Hayashi, A., Ohira, H., Fukui, K., Hisamatsu, A., Nguyen, D. and Imamura, F.
  • Journal Title: International Journal of Disaster Risk Reduction Volume: 21 Pages: 323-330
  • DOI: 10.1016/j.ijdrr.2016.12.016
  • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research / Acknowledgement Compliant
• [Journal Article] Economic feasibility of tidal stream and wave power in post-Fukushima Japan (2016)
  • Author(s): Bricker, J.D., Esteban, M., Takagi, H., Roeber, V.,
  • Journal Title: Renewable Energy Volume: 1 Pages: 1-14
  • DOI: 10.1016/j.renene.2016.06.049
  • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
• [Journal Article] Probabilistic mapping of storm-induced coastal inundation for climate change adaptation (2016)
  • Author(s): Kwok Fai Cheung, Yoshiki Yamazaki, Volker Roeber, Ning Li, Gary Chock
  • Journal Title: Proceedings of the Seventh Civil Engineering Conference in the Asian Region Volume: -
  • Int'l Joint Research
• [Journal Article] BOSZ - Boussinesq Ocean and Surf Zone model. Results of the 2015 NTHMP Model Benchmarking Workshop, NOAA, Portland, Oregon (2016)
  • Author(s): Volker Roeber, Troy Heitmann, Kwok Fai Cheung, C. Gabriel David, Jeremy D. Bricker
  • Journal Title: Journal of Geophysical Research Volume: -
  • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research / Acknowledgement Compliant
• [Journal Article] Impacts of the 2009 South Pacific Tsunami and implications for deposit investigation in Western Samoa (2016)
  • Author(s): Shaun Williams, Yoshiki Yamazaki, Volker Roeber, Kwok Fai Cheung
  • Journal Title: Geophysical Marine Letters Volume: -
  • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research / Acknowledgement Compliant
• [Journal Article] Destructive tsunami-like wave generated by surf beat over a coral reef during Typhoon Haiyan (2015)
  • Author(s): Volker Roeber, Jeremy D. Bricker
  • Journal Title: Nature Communications Volume: 6 Issue: 1 Pages: 1-9
  • DOI: 10.1038/ncomms8854
  • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
• [Presentation] WAVES AND CURRENTS IN THE VICINITY OF HARBORS - AN EXAMPLE FROM SENDAI PORT, TOHOKU, JAPAN (2017)
  • Author(s): ROEBER, Volker, BRICKER, Jeremy D., MITOBE, Yuta, TAKAGI, Hiroshi, ESTEBAN, Miguel and TANAKA, Hitoshi
  • Organizer: 2017 GSA Cordilleran Section Meeting
  • Place of Presentation: Honolulu, HI
  • Year and Date: 2017-05-23
• [Presentation] Applications for Phase-resolving Wave Models (2016)
  • Author(s): Volker Roeber, Jeremy Bricker, Assaf Azouri, Hitoshi, Tanaka, Yuta Mitobe
  • Organizer: Advances in wave modeling and observations for MRE applications
  • Place of Presentation: Brest, France
  • Invited
• [Presentation] EFFECT OF NEARBY STRUCTURES ON FAILURE OF THE UTATSU BRIDGE DURING THE 2011 GREAT EAST JAPAN TSUNAMI (2015)
  • Author(s): Volker Roeber, Jeremy D. Bricker
  • Organizer: Investment into future research for nuclear safety
  • Place of Presentation: French Embassy, Tokyo, Japan
  • Year and Date: 2015-11-25
  • Invited
• [Presentation] Nearshore wave processes around Ports in Japan (2015)
  • Author(s): Volker Roeber, Jeremy D. Bricker
  • Organizer: Current and Future Challenges in Coastal Flood Risk Protection: Lessons Learnt from Japan and the Netherlands
  • Place of Presentation: Waseda University, Tokyo, Japan
  • Year and Date: 2015-11-04
  • Invited