| Project/Area Number |
16500482
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Research Field |
General human life sciences
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| Research Institution | Kyoritsu Women's University |
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Principal Investigator |
SAITO Masako Kyoritsu Women's University, Faculty of Home Economics, Professor, 家政学部, 教授 (20104086)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
NAGASAKI Iwao Kyoritsu Women's University, Faculty of Home Economics., Professor, 家政学部, 教授 (20155922)
KAWASHIMA Kazue Kyoritsu Women's University, Faculty of Home Economics, Professor, 家政学部, 教授 (60086733)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2004 – 2006
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| Project Status |
Completed (Fiscal Year 2006)
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| Budget Amount *help |
¥3,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,200,000)
Fiscal Year 2006: ¥700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥700,000)
Fiscal Year 2005: ¥1,100,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,100,000)
Fiscal Year 2004: ¥1,400,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,400,000)
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| Keywords | Jinbaori (Military campaign coat) / Late edo period / Scarlet woolen fabric / Dye / Dyeing technique / Construction technique / Effect of Western textile culture / Textile history / 触染剤 / 染織技法 / 法量 / 形状 / 色 |
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| Research Abstract |
Jinbaori or a campaign coat was an outer garment worn over armors by Japanese warriors since the 16th century and was continually used until the middle of the 19th century. This research intended to examine 104 pieces of Jinbaori in the collection of Sumi Research Institute and two pieces in the collection of Kyoritsu Women's University in order to explore their characteristic features and to place them in historical contexts. Firstly styles functions, materials, decorative elements were examined. Secondly colors of outer fabrics on Jinbaori were measured by spectrophotometer and their fibers were analyzed by scanning Electron Microscope. Scientific analysis including dye and mordant analysis was interpreted into historical contexts of textile technology Colors, dyes and mordants of red woolen fabrics used for 37 Jinbaori of the Edo period (1603-1867) were analyzed. The colors were plotted on the L*a*b* chromatic system. The dyes were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography with photo-diode array detector, and mordants on fabrics were detected by X-ray fluorescence spectroscopy. Cochineal dye with aluminum mordant was detected from bluish-red Jinbaori. Cochineal, lac, and a combination of cochineal and lac dyed with aluminum and tin mordants were identified in yellowish-red Jinbaori As the results of object examination and scientific analysis the study concluded those Jinbaori consists of 1 from the early Edo period, 10 from the middle of Edo period, and 95 from the Late Edo period, those of which reflected influence of Western textile culture and fashion, and aesthetics of Japanese warriors.
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