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Transformation of Wave Groups and Associated Long-Period Waves during High Waves

Research Project

Project/Area Number 17360233
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionNagoya Institute of Technology

Principal Investigator

KIOKA Wataru  Nagoya Institute of Technology, Nagoya Institute of Technology, Dept, of Civil Engineering, Professor (10135402)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) KITANO Toshikazu  Nagoya Institute of Tachnology, Dept of Civil Engineering, Associate Professor (00284307)
Project Period (FY) 2005 – 2007
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2007)
Budget Amount *help
¥12,660,000 (Direct Cost: ¥12,300,000、Indirect Cost: ¥360,000)
Fiscal Year 2007: ¥1,560,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,200,000、Indirect Cost: ¥360,000)
Fiscal Year 2006: ¥2,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,800,000)
Fiscal Year 2005: ¥8,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥8,300,000)
Keywordswave groups / irregular waves / standing waves / field observation / shallow-water waves / 長周期波 / 水工水理学 / 海洋工学 / 船舶工学 / 自然現象観測・予測 / 自然災害
Research Abstract

In the present study the characteristics of wave groups propagating over the continental shelf toward the coastal region are investigated using the envelopes computed by the Hilbert transform from field observations and related to the evolution of the amplitude and phase modulations. The measurements are performed by 3 wave gauges located over a few lengths of typical wind wave groups, in water of intermediate water depths 0.6<kh <1.2 with k being the wavenumber of significant wave and h being the water depth. During the observation period, the significant wave height exceeds 3m for four days due to the passing of typhoon. It has been observed that the distribution of waves in a group approaching a shore becomes more uniform at the wave growth and wave decay stages of these high waves. During theca periods the significant wave height tends to decrease with approaching the coastal zone.
We have extended the work of Longuet-Higgins and Phillips (1962) to present the expression for changes in phase speed of one wavetrain in the presence of another in water of finite depth. It is shown that the change in phase speed is more pronounced when the directions of two wavetrains are opposite and the wavenumber of another wavetrain is relatively small. The third-other interactions between the normal incident and reflected wave fields due to a vertical wall are investigated by numerical simulations based on Zakharo's equations with kernel functions valid for the cases of finite depth.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2007 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2006 Annual Research Report
  • 2005 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (35 results)

All 2008 2007 2006 2005

All Journal Article (20 results) (of which Peer Reviewed: 9 results) Presentation (14 results) Book (1 results)

  • [Journal Article] 不規則波の周期分布における対数正規性とその相似性2008

    • Author(s)
      北野利一
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 第55巻(印刷中)

    • NAID

      130003992161

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 確率波高に対する推定の可否を決定づける新たな指標の提案2008

    • Author(s)
      北野利一
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 第55巻(印刷中)

    • NAID

      130003992205

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 鉛直壁からの波群の反射に関する研究2008

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 第55巻(印刷中)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Reflection of Strongly Nonlinear Waves from a Vertical Wall2008

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.55(in print)

    • NAID

      130003992136

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Log-Normality and Similarity for Conditional Distributions of Wave Periods2008

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.55(in print)

    • NAID

      130003992161

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Degree of Experience in Statistical Analysis for Extreme Wave Heights2008

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.55(in print)

    • NAID

      130003992205

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 高波浪時の波群特性に関する現地調査2007

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 第54巻

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 高波の頻度解析に用いられるワイブル分布の形状母数2007

    • Author(s)
      北野利一
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 第54巻

    • NAID

      130003807967

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 波高と周期の結合確率分布の近似的表現2007

    • Author(s)
      北野利一
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 第54巻

    • NAID

      130003808192

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Field Observations of Wave Group Transformation during High Waves2007

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.54

      Pages: 161-165

    • NAID

      130003808028

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Adaptable Representation of Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods2007

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.54

      Pages: 91-95

    • NAID

      130003808192

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Shape Parameter of Weibull Distribution Employe in Extrema WM VP TiMpht Statigtieg2007

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.54

      Pages: 121-125

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 高波浪時の波群特性に関する現地調査2007

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 54

    • Related Report
      2007 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 高波の頻度解析に用いられるワイブル分布の形状母数2007

    • Author(s)
      北野 利一
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 54

    • NAID

      130003807967

    • Related Report
      2007 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 波高と周期の結合確率分布の近似的表現2007

    • Author(s)
      北野 利一
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 54

    • NAID

      130003808192

    • Related Report
      2007 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Phase Velocity Changes due to the Tertiary Wave Interaction in Finite Water-Depth2007

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. of International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conf. 17(CD-R)

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 高波浪時の波群特性に関する現地観測2007

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Journal Title

      土木学会海岸工学論文集 54(印刷中)

    • NAID

      130003808028

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 波高と周期の結合確率分布の近似的表現2007

    • Author(s)
      北野利一
    • Journal Title

      土木学会海岸工学論文集 54(印刷中)

    • NAID

      130003808192

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Wave, Tide Observations and Modeling in the Asian-Pacific Region2006

    • Author(s)
      Choi, B. H
    • Journal Title

      KSCOE, JSCE and CICHE

      Pages: 316-316

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Transformation of Strongly Nonlinear Wave Group over a Sloping Beach2005

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W., Hayashi, N., Kitano, T.
    • Journal Title

      Proc.of Asian and Pacific Coasts 2005 3

      Pages: 83-86

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Tertiary Wave Interaction with a Vertical Wall in Water of Finite Depth2007

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Organizer
      Proc. 4th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      南京,中国
    • Year and Date
      2007-09-24
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Tertiary Wave Interaction with a Vertical Wall in Water of Finite Depth2007

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W
    • Organizer
      4th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      Nanjing, China
    • Year and Date
      2007-09-24
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Tertiary Wave Interaction with a Vertical Wall in Water of Finite Depth2007

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Organizer
      Proc. 4th International Conference on Asian andPacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      南京,中国
    • Year and Date
      2007-09-24
    • Related Report
      2007 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Point Process Method for Haltenbanken Extreme Wave Height Data2007

    • Author(s)
      北野利一
    • Organizer
      Proc. 2007 International Conference on Coastal Structures
    • Place of Presentation
      ベニス,イタリア
    • Year and Date
      2007-07-03
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Point Process Method for Haltenbanken Extreme Wave Height Data2007

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T
    • Organizer
      2007 International Conference on Coastal Structures
    • Place of Presentation
      Venice, Italy
    • Year and Date
      2007-07-03
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Point Process Method for Haltenbanken Extreme Wave Height Data2007

    • Author(s)
      北野 利一
    • Organizer
      Proc. 2007 1nternational Conference on Coastal Structures
    • Place of Presentation
      ベニス,イタリア
    • Year and Date
      2007-07-03
    • Related Report
      2007 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Phase Velocity Changes due to the Tertiary Wave Interaction in Finite Water-Depth2007

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Organizer
      Proc. 17th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
    • Place of Presentation
      リスボン,ポルトガル
    • Year and Date
      2007-07-02
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Annual Research Report 2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Phase Velocity Changes due to the Tertiary WaH Interaction in Finite Water-Depth2007

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W
    • Organizer
      17th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
    • Place of Presentation
      Lisbon, Portugal
    • Year and Date
      2007-07-02
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] 有限水深における波の三次干渉による波速変化2007

    • Author(s)
      瀧本浩史
    • Organizer
      平成18年度土木学会中部支部研究発表会
    • Place of Presentation
      名古屋
    • Year and Date
      2007-03-02
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] 不規則波浪の波高と周期の結合確率分布に関する検討2007

    • Author(s)
      森下和帆
    • Organizer
      平成18年度土木学会中部支部研究発表会
    • Place of Presentation
      名古屋
    • Year and Date
      2007-03-02
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] On the Change of Phase Speed due to the Tertiary Wave Interaction2007

    • Author(s)
      Takimoto, H
    • Organizer
      Annual Meeting of JSCE Chubu
    • Place of Presentation
      Nagoya, Japan
    • Year and Date
      2007-03-02
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] On the Joint Distribution of Irregular Wave Heights and Periods2007

    • Author(s)
      Morishita, K
    • Organizer
      Annual Meeting of JSCE Chubu
    • Place of Presentation
      Nagoya, Japan
    • Year and Date
      2007-03-02
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Transformation of Strongly Nonlinear Wave Group over a Sloping Beach2005

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉
    • Organizer
      Proc. 3rd International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      チェジュ,韓国
    • Year and Date
      2005-09-05
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Presentation] Transformation of Strongly Nonlinear Wave Grou over a Sloping Beach2005

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W
    • Organizer
      3rd International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      Jeju, Korea
    • Year and Date
      2005-09-05
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Book] Wave, Tide Observations and Modeling in the Asian-Pacific Region2006

    • Author(s)
      Choi, B. H.
    • Total Pages
      316
    • Publisher
      KSCOE, JSCE and CICHE
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2007 Final Research Report Summary

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Published: 2005-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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