| Project/Area Number |
17K02320
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Multi-year Fund |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Research Field |
Fine art history
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| Research Institution | Miyagi Gakuin Women's University |
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Principal Investigator |
Okubo Naoko 宮城学院女子大学, 生活科学部, 教授 (90275610)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2017-04-01 – 2024-03-31
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| Project Status |
Completed (Fiscal Year 2023)
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| Budget Amount *help |
¥2,340,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,800,000、Indirect Cost: ¥540,000)
Fiscal Year 2020: ¥910,000 (Direct Cost: ¥700,000、Indirect Cost: ¥210,000)
Fiscal Year 2019: ¥390,000 (Direct Cost: ¥300,000、Indirect Cost: ¥90,000)
Fiscal Year 2018: ¥390,000 (Direct Cost: ¥300,000、Indirect Cost: ¥90,000)
Fiscal Year 2017: ¥650,000 (Direct Cost: ¥500,000、Indirect Cost: ¥150,000)
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| Keywords | 注染 / 手拭い / 浴衣 / 型染 / 型紙 / 図案 / 東京の染織 / 近代の手仕事 / 中形 / 手ぬぐい / 染織の近代化 / ゆかた / 型染め / 近代の染織 / 注染の歴史 / 江戸趣味 / 注染技術革新と図案 / 型染における手仕事と機械工業の融合 / 東京における手拭い、中形浴衣地制作 / 近代的図案観の大衆的受容 / 型紙商と図案業 / 江戸の意匠文化の近代への波及 / 注染による美術染色 / 東京における注染技術革新と図案 / 東京における手拭い、浴衣(中形） / 美術史 / 意匠 / 服飾史 |
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| Outline of Final Research Achievements |
This research clarifies that the early Chusen dyeing technique in the Edo-Tokyo area was established by the mid-19th century as a method for dyeing white based tenuguis, which are difficult to dip-dye by applying resistant paste to the entire surface, and that it was developed in relation to the culture of custom-dyeing.
It also clarifies that in modern Tokyo, the dyeing technique was applied to yukata fabrics starting from the late 1900s, when machine printing appeared. This technique was modeled after the elaborate handwork of Nagaitachugata. Through its refinement in design, by the 1920s it developed into a fashionable product.
It also shows that the creative yukata-design projects that arose in the mid-20s that involved artist groups or public entries, were characterized by amateurism, linked to the practice of "daily life as art" and to the tradition of playful design creation in Edo. These contemporary designs were made possible thanks to the custom-made Chusen dyeing system.
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| Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements |
従来不明確であった江戸東京圏での注染の歴史と特質を、地域における手拭い、浴衣の受容のあり方と関連付けて明らかにした。特に初期段階注染の成立期が従来関西圏について説明されていたよりも早いこと、浴衣地への応用過程には従来対立的に捉えられることの多かった長板中形を意識した手技追求、意匠の検討がみられたことは、重要な知見といえる。本課題の総合的成果は、注染および、近代東京圏で注染と併存した長板中形その他型染めの歴史展開、図案、型紙等に関する研究に発展しうる。
また本課題の成果は伝統工芸産業としての注染の位置付けの明確化につながり、「東京本染注染」の経済産業大臣指定伝統的工芸品指定申出資料に活用された。
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