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沿岸過程を考慮した次世代波浪推算モデルの開発

Research Project

Project/Area Number 18J21135
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for JSPS Fellows

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section国内
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionThe University of Tokyo

Principal Investigator

松葉 義直  東京大学, 工学系研究科, 特別研究員(DC1)

Project Period (FY) 2018-04-25 – 2021-03-31
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2020)
Budget Amount *help
¥2,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,800,000)
Fiscal Year 2020: ¥900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000)
Fiscal Year 2019: ¥900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000)
Fiscal Year 2018: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Keywords長周期波 / 遡上 / 拘束波 / 補足波 / 砕波 / 非線形干渉 / 沿岸過程 / UAV / ステレオ
Outline of Annual Research Achievements

本年度では,沿岸部で特に発達する長周期波が高波浪時の遡上に対しどのような影響をもたらすのかについて,2019年台風15・19号来襲時の西湘海岸における波浪観測・数値再現と,茨城県波崎海岸において行った沿岸波浪および遡上の長期観測結果をもとに分析を進めた.得られた主な成果は以下のとおりである.
1.西湘海岸では,2019年台風19号来襲後に最大で13 mの高さの遡上痕跡高が観測され,台風15号来襲後においても最大で7.5 mほどであった.また,波浪観測データからは,台風19号来襲時には波高8 m以上の入射波と波高2 m以上の長周期波が確認され,双方の遡上への寄与が示唆された.数値モデルを用いた分析からは,台風15号のケースでは最大遡上は短周期波の屈折による集中によって引き起こされた一方,台風19号のケースでは,沿岸方向に捕捉された長周期波の局所的集中が最大遡上を引き起こした可能性が示唆された.特に長周期波による水位変動は短周期波の砕波減衰にも影響し,長周期波の増幅箇所で短周期波の増幅が生じていることがわかった.
2.波崎海岸での長期観測からは,幅広い海象条件での遡上データを得ることが出来た.長周期波は主に拘束波として発達したことが示唆された一方,その長周期波は砕波帯内で顕著に減衰していることがわかった.特にこの減衰は周波数に依存しており,気象擾乱時にはより周期の長い長周期波が大きな遡上を引き起こしうることがわかった.また,拘束波の発達に影響する沖波の周波数分散および方向分散の双方の長周期波遡上への影響を初めて実海岸で検証した.結果として,それら二つのパラメータの考慮により長周期波遡上のより正確な予測が可能になることが示唆された.

Research Progress Status

令和2年度が最終年度であるため、記入しない。

Strategy for Future Research Activity

令和2年度が最終年度であるため、記入しない。

Report

(3 results)
  • 2020 Annual Research Report
  • 2019 Annual Research Report
  • 2018 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (17 results)

All 2021 2020 2019 2018

All Journal Article (6 results) (of which Int'l Joint Research: 5 results,  Peer Reviewed: 6 results,  Open Access: 3 results) Presentation (11 results) (of which Int'l Joint Research: 6 results)

  • [Journal Article] Extreme wave runup at the Seisho Coast during Typhoons Faxai and Hagibis in 20192021

    • Author(s)
      Yoshinao Matsuba, Takenori Shimozono, Yoshimitsu Tajima: Extreme wave
    • Journal Title

      Coastal Engineering

      Volume: 無 Pages: 103899-103899

    • DOI

      10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103899

    • Related Report
      2020 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] Infragravity wave dynamics on Seisho Coast during Typhoon Lan in 20172020

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba Yoshinao、Shimozono Takenori、Sato Shinji
    • Journal Title

      Coastal Engineering Journal

      Volume: 62 Issue: 2 Pages: 299-316

    • DOI

      10.1080/21664250.2020.1753901

    • Related Report
      2020 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] Wave-breaking modulation by infragravity waves during an extreme typhoon2020

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba Yoshinao, Shimozono Takenori, Sato Shinji
    • Journal Title

      PLOS ONE

      Volume: - Issue: 4 Pages: e0231242-e0231242

    • DOI

      10.1371/journal.pone.0231242

    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] UAV-based mapping of nearshore bathymetry over broad areas2020

    • Author(s)
      Tsukada Fumiya, Shimozono Takenori, Matsuba Yoshinao
    • Journal Title

      Coastal Engineering Journal

      Volume: - Issue: 2 Pages: 285-298

    • DOI

      10.1080/21664250.2020.1747766

    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] Nearshore Dynamics of Storm Surges and Waves Induced by the 2018 Typhoons Jebi and Trami Based on the Analysis of Video Footage Recorded on the Coasts of Wakayama, Japan2019

    • Author(s)
      Yamanaka Yusuke、Matsuba Yoshinao、Tajima Yoshimitsu、Shibata Ryotaro、Hattori Naohiro、Wu Lianhui、Okami Naoko
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

      Volume: 7 Issue: 11 Pages: 413-413

    • DOI

      10.3390/jmse7110413

    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] NUMERICAL INVESTIGATIONS OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DEVELOPMENT ON A BARRED BEACH2018

    • Author(s)
      松葉 義直, 下園 武範, 田島 芳満
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 74 Issue: 2 Pages: I_19-I_24

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.74.I_19

    • NAID

      130007504063

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2018 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Presentation] A NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF WAVE RUNUP DURING EXTREME TYPHOONS IN 20192021

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba Yoshinao, Shimozono Takenori, Tajima Yoshimitsu
    • Organizer
      Coastal Dynamics 2021
    • Related Report
      2020 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] 沖波スペクトルに基づく長周期波遡上の予測手法の検討2021

    • Author(s)
      松葉義直,下園武範
    • Organizer
      第68回海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2020 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Wave-Breaking Modulation by Infragravity Waves2020

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba Yoshinao, Shimozono Takenori, Sato Shinji
    • Organizer
      Ocean Sciences Meeting 2020
    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] Stereo Reconstruction of Surf Zone Waves Using UAV2019

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba Yoshinao, Shimozono Takenori
    • Organizer
      APAC2019
    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] 2017年台風21号来襲時の西湘海岸における長周期波の挙動分析2019

    • Author(s)
      松葉義直,下園武範,佐藤愼司
    • Organizer
      第66回海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] UAVを用いた広域海底地形の推定手法の構築2019

    • Author(s)
      塚田文也,下園武範,松葉義直
    • Organizer
      第66回海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] 2018年台風21号及び24号による和歌山県沿岸域の高潮・高波災害2019

    • Author(s)
      山中悠資,松葉義直,田島義満,柴田涼太郎,服部直弘,呉連慧,岡見菜生子
    • Organizer
      第66回海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2019 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] STEREO RECONSTRUCTION OF SURF ZONE WAVES USING UAV2019

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba, Y., Shimozono, T.
    • Organizer
      The 10th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Related Report
      2018 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] OBSERVATION OF NEARSHORE WAVE-WAVE INTERACTION USING UAV2018

    • Author(s)
      Matsuba, Y., Shimozono, T., Tajima, Y.
    • Organizer
      36th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Related Report
      2018 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] FIELD STUDY OF CONTRASTING BEACH RECOVERY PROCESSES OBSERVED IN NAMI-ITA and KIRIKIRI COASTS AFTER THE 2011 TOHOKU EARTHQUAKE2018

    • Author(s)
      Kojima, Y., Tajima, Y., Matsuba, Y., Shimozono, T., Terasawa, T., Abe, K.
    • Organizer
      36th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Related Report
      2018 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] バー型海岸における長周期波発達過程の数値解析2018

    • Author(s)
      松葉義直, 下園武範,田島芳満
    • Organizer
      第65回海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2018 Annual Research Report

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Published: 2018-05-01   Modified: 2024-03-26  

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