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Global Entanglement of Dyeing Designs: A Case Study of "Kimono" Culture

Research Project

Project/Area Number 18K00196
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeMulti-year Fund
Section一般
Review Section Basic Section 01060:History of arts-related
Research InstitutionRitsumeikan University

Principal Investigator

Suzuki Keiko  立命館大学, 文学部, 授業担当講師 (10551137)

Project Period (FY) 2018-04-01 – 2024-03-31
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2023)
Budget Amount *help
¥4,290,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,300,000、Indirect Cost: ¥990,000)
Fiscal Year 2020: ¥1,690,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,300,000、Indirect Cost: ¥390,000)
Fiscal Year 2019: ¥1,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥300,000)
Fiscal Year 2018: ¥1,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥300,000)
Keywords美術史 / グローバル・ヒストリー / 服飾史 / 異文化交流 / 経済史 / きもの文化 / 京都 / 日本文化史
Outline of Final Research Achievements

In order to examine the global expansion of "kimono culture," which can hardly be seen in the conventional history of "kimono" and the history of Kyoto industry, this study focuses on the following three points: (1) printed fabrics exported from Kyoto to Asia and Africa in the early 20th century, (2) the birth and global popularization of aloha shirts made of kimono fabrics in Hawaii, and (3) the sukajan and happy coat, which were developed as souvenirs for foreigners after World War II--their establishment in Japan and their relationship with youth culture.

Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements

「きもの」文化の研究は、従来そのハイ・カルチャー的な側面に焦点を当てたものが多い。それに対して、本研究は海外へ輸出された捺染生地、観光芸術・土産品としてのスカジャン、ハッピーコート、アロハシャツ等、「きもの」文化に関連した比較的廉価な繊維製品の歴史を補完することで、モノ・技術・デザインのグローバルな循環を総合的に叙述し、それにより、欧米中心的視点では見えてこない世界史を方法論的に提示した。
本研究を遂行することにより、伝統産業の活性化に不可欠な学術的裏付けと国際的な情報発信を継続的・効果的に推進することができた。結果、海外研究者・研究機関の関心も高まり、国際共同プロジェクトが始まっている。

Report

(7 results)
  • 2023 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report ( PDF )
  • 2022 Research-status Report
  • 2021 Research-status Report
  • 2020 Research-status Report
  • 2019 Research-status Report
  • 2018 Research-status Report
  • Research Products

    (45 results)

All 2024 2023 2022 2021 2020 2019 2018 Other

All Int'l Joint Research (6 results) Presentation (28 results) (of which Int'l Joint Research: 9 results,  Invited: 8 results) Book (4 results) Remarks (6 results) Funded Workshop (1 results)

  • [Int'l Joint Research] 社会科学高等研究院・日本研究所(フランス)

    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
  • [Int'l Joint Research] 社会科学高等研究院・日本研究所(フランス)

    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
  • [Int'l Joint Research] ユトレヒト大学TextileLabプロジェクト(オランダ)

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
  • [Int'l Joint Research] インドネシア科学院(LIPI)(インドネシア)

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Int'l Joint Research] カルフォルニア大学バークレー校(米国)

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Int'l Joint Research] インドネシア科学院 (LIPI)/インドネシア国立博物館(インドネシア)

    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] Visual Construction of the Dutch: From the Perspective of the “Tojin”2024

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      Leiden Lecture Series in Japanese Studies
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] Printed Textiles on the Move: A Case Study of Chintz, Batik, Wa-sarasa, and “African Prints”2024

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      East Asian Textiles and Clothing in Motion: Ideas and Identities Across Media and Space in the Long 19th Century
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] 挿絵解説文の英訳について:解説文にあらわれる身装文化の特徴、及び機械翻訳の試みについて2023

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      服装・身装文化デジタルアーカイブ研究会
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] An Entangled History of Chintz, Batik, Sarasa, Katagami, and “African Prints”2023

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      Images of Drapes/Draped Images: Textiles and Representation in Early Modern Asia and Europe
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] A Global History of “Kimonos” and the Products They Inspired2023

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      The 3rd Conference of the European Association for Asian Art and Archaeology
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] A Global History of Textiles2023

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      International Colloquium Global Japan 50 ans
    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] On Japanese Textile Designs in the 19th Century2023

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      Workshop on Towards a New Historiography of the 19th-century Japan
    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] 「戦前の機械捺染:導入前夜から黄金期まで」2022

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      「明治初期の繊維産業における革新を考える―島田昌和編著『きものとデザイン:つくり手・売り手の150年』(ミネルヴァ書房 2020年)に焦点をあてて」
    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] 「江戸時代以降のコンタクト・ゾーンにおける「きもの」文化」2022

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      国際ワークショップ「幕末から明治期の京都の繊維産業を『J-InnovaTech』の観点から考える」
    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] “Kimonos” and their Inspired Products as Embodiments of Global Entanglement2022

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      The Association for Asian Studies
    • Related Report
      2021 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] Designs and their Dissemination in Japan and Asia2021

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      Designing Modern Japan: Visualizing the Modern Experience in Japan and Asia
    • Related Report
      2021 Research-status Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] Global Entanglement of Textiles: Chintz, Batik, Katagami, and ‘African Prints' on the Move, 1800-20002021

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      Transoceanic Connectivity as Maritime Landscapes
    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research / Invited
  • [Presentation] “Kimonos” and their Inspired Products as Embodiments of Global Interconnectivity2021

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      International Workshop: Dutch Textiles in Global History: Interconnections of Trade, Design, and Labour, 1600-2000
    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] 挿絵解説文の英語化の問題点とその分析2021

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      身装文化デジタルアーカイブ研究会
    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] ヴァーチャル・インスティテュートの可能性―身装文化デジタルアーカイブの更なる活用に向けて2020

    • Author(s)
      高橋晴子、津田光弘、八村広三郎、鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      第66回[特別編]ARCセミナー
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] Further Frontiers in Digital Humanities2020

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      New Frontiers in Digital Humanities for Japanese Culture and Arts
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] An Image Digital Archive on the Clothing Culture in Japan from 1868 to 19452019

    • Author(s)
      Haruko Takahashi, Kozaburo Hachimura, and Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      第25回ICOM(国際博物館会議) 京都大会
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] ICOM2019京都におけるCIDOC研究発表報告および今後の課題22019

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      身装文化デジタルアーカイブ研究会
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] 機械捺染とデザインに見る越境性2019

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      経営史学会 第55回全国大会
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] Aloha Shirts and Sukajan: Their Circulation and Domestication throughout Asia2019

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      国際シンポジウムThe Many Shapes of Meaning: Object and Performance in Asia
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] インドネシアの世界文化遺産をケーススタディーとしての文化財の可視化とICT時代の文理融合研究2019

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      ICT文理融合可視化小委員会(第2回)
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] 機械捺染とデザインに見る越境性2019

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      消費とデザイン研究会
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] Wood Blocks & Paper Stencils: The Hidden Forms of Color Printing in Japan2018

    • Author(s)
      Henry D. Smith II, and Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      KCJS Summer Lecture
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] On Digitalization of Textile and Old Books2018

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki, and Zengxian Li
    • Organizer
      Seminar and Workshop at the National Museum of Indonesia
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] Deep feature extraction based on an L2-constrained combination of center and softmax loss functions for ukiyo-e image recommendation2018

    • Author(s)
      Lilang Xiong, Zhenao Wei, Wenwen Ouyang, Yulin Cai, Ruck Thawonmas, Keiko Suzuki, and Masaaki Kidachi
    • Organizer
      DSDAH 2018: The 1st KDD Workshop on Data Science for Digital Art History: tackling big data Challenges, Algorithms, and Systems
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] 身装画像データベース<近代日本の身装文化>のためのターミノロジーの英語翻訳2018

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Organizer
      身装文化デジタルアーカイブ研究会
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] Rethinking Katagami Designs from a Global Perspective2018

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      History & Design Roundtable: Printed Textiles for West Africa. c1860-1980s. Low Countries, Scotland, Switzerland, Japan and their Global Connections
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] Design Dialogues: Questions on Kosode and Japonse Rok's Commonalities2018

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki
    • Organizer
      Roundtable History & Design Kosode & Banyans: Contested World Views in an Attire c1580-1910
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Book] 『西川祐信『正徳ひな形』―影印・注釈・研究―』2022

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子 (石上阿希 ・加茂瑞穂共編)
    • Total Pages
      464
    • Publisher
      臨川書店
    • ISBN
      9784653044697
    • Related Report
      2021 Research-status Report
  • [Book] Art Research, Special Issue: Collected Papers from the Freie University Berlin-Kobe University-Ritsumeikan University Joint Workshops in 2017 and 20192020

    • Author(s)
      Keiko Suzuki, and Bergmann, Annegret, eds.
    • Total Pages
      137
    • Publisher
      立命館大学アート・リサーチセンター
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Book] 「機械捺染とデザインに見る越境性」、『きものとデザイン―つくり手・売り手の一五〇年』(島田昌和 編著)2020

    • Author(s)
      鈴木桂子
    • Total Pages
      25
    • Publisher
      ミネルヴァ書房
    • ISBN
      9784623088744
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Book] Linking Cloth/Clothing Globally, Transformations of Use and Value, c.1700-20002019

    • Author(s)
      Miki Sugiura (編者)・Keiko Suzuki, Beverly Lemire, Giorgio Riello at el. (著者)
    • Total Pages
      298
    • Publisher
      法政大学比較経済研究所
    • ISBN
      9784991004407
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
  • [Remarks] Compte-rendu du Colloque Global Japon(s)

    • URL

      https://carnetsjapon.hypotheses.org/32214

    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
  • [Remarks] EHESS (社会科学高等研究院)

    • URL

      https://www.ehess.fr/fr/colloque/colloque-global-japons

    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
  • [Remarks] 国際ワークショップ『幕末から明治期の京都の繊維産業を 「J-InnovaTech」の観点から考える』

    • URL

      https://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/j/report/b1/pc/015686.html

    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
  • [Remarks] Workshop Dutch Textiles in Global History

    • URL

      https://www.textilelab.net/news/save-the-date-workshop-dutch-textiles-in-global-history/

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
  • [Remarks] Dutch Textiles in Global History

    • URL

      https://www.textilelab.net/events/seminar/

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
  • [Remarks] ART RESEARCH SPECIAL ISSUE Vol.1

    • URL

      https://www.arc.ritsumei.ac.jp/lib/app/newarc/e/report/books/ar.html

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Funded Workshop] International Workshop: Dutch Textiles in Global History: Interconnections of Trade, Design, and Labour, 1600-20002021

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report

URL: 

Published: 2018-04-23   Modified: 2025-01-30  

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