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Historical sociology of kimono in post-war Japanese society.

Research Project

Project/Area Number 18K12962
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Early-Career Scientists

Allocation TypeMulti-year Fund
Review Section Basic Section 08010:Sociology-related
Research InstitutionOtsuma Women's University (2022-2023)
The Kyoto Costume Institute (2018-2021)

Principal Investigator

Ogata Michimasa  大妻女子大学, 家政学部, 専任講師 (90778143)

Project Period (FY) 2018-04-01 – 2024-03-31
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2023)
Budget Amount *help
¥2,340,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,800,000、Indirect Cost: ¥540,000)
Fiscal Year 2021: ¥650,000 (Direct Cost: ¥500,000、Indirect Cost: ¥150,000)
Fiscal Year 2020: ¥520,000 (Direct Cost: ¥400,000、Indirect Cost: ¥120,000)
Fiscal Year 2019: ¥520,000 (Direct Cost: ¥400,000、Indirect Cost: ¥120,000)
Fiscal Year 2018: ¥650,000 (Direct Cost: ¥500,000、Indirect Cost: ¥150,000)
Keywords着物 / 和服 / 社会学 / 戦後日本 / ファッション
Outline of Final Research Achievements

This study has shown that kimono in post-war Japanese society can be divided into four categories: (1) 'kimono as everyday wear' (post-war to 1950s), (2) 'kimono as formal wear' (1960s to early 1970s), (3) 'kimono as a work of art' (late 1970s to 1980s) and (4) 'kimono as costume play' (1990s to present).
It also clarified that the theoretical relationship between human beings and clothing is 'clothes to be made' in (1), 'clothes to be bought' in (2) and (3), and 'clothes to be rented' in (4), and showed that the concepts of 'gift', 'collection' and 'transformation' can be precipitated from each of these.

Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements

かつて和服はわれわれの生活着であったが、戦後日本社会の洋装化のなかでその姿は失われていった。だが、人びとは現在も非日常的な衣装として、成人式や卒業式などの冠婚葬祭や様々なイベントのなかで袖を通している。この洋装化の背面に生じた和服の日常着から非日常着への変容は、具体的な自国文化の理解という歴史的かつ現在的な問題としてだけではなく、衣服の製作、購入そしてレンタルといった人間と衣服の理論的な関係性の変貌を明らかにするとともに、そのなかに贈与、所有、変身といった衣服をめぐる人間の欲望を析出したという点において学術的ならびに社会的意義を有する研究である。

Report

(7 results)
  • 2023 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report ( PDF )
  • 2022 Research-status Report
  • 2021 Research-status Report
  • 2020 Research-status Report
  • 2019 Research-status Report
  • 2018 Research-status Report
  • Research Products

    (16 results)

All 2023 2022 2021 2020 2019 2018 Other

All Journal Article (9 results) (of which Peer Reviewed: 3 results,  Open Access: 1 results) Presentation (6 results) (of which Int'l Joint Research: 1 results,  Invited: 4 results) Remarks (1 results)

  • [Journal Article] 贈与・所有・変身――衣服をめぐる欲望の相乗性と相剋性から2023

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Journal Title

      思想

      Volume: 1192 Pages: 101-114

    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 非日常化する着物と衣服を買うこと――1960年代から1980年代(下)2022

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Journal Title

      Fashion Talks...

      Volume: 14 Pages: 48-59

    • Related Report
      2022 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] What Is the Newness of the New Kimono?: Postwar Japan in the 1940s and 1950s2022

    • Author(s)
      Michimasa Ogata
    • Journal Title

      Created and Contested: Norms, Traditions, and Values in Contemporary Asian Fashion (MEIS-NIHU Series)

      Volume: 5 Pages: 157-178

    • Related Report
      2021 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 衣服と人間の関係史ーーつくること、買うこと、借りること2022

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Journal Title

      広告

      Volume: 416 Pages: 151-164

    • Related Report
      2021 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] 非日常化する着物と衣服を買うこと――1960年代から1980年代(上)2021

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Journal Title

      Fashion Talks…

      Volume: 13 Pages: 58-67

    • NAID

      40022754258

    • Related Report
      2021 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] 衣服をめぐる人間との関係――現代社会における和服の変容より2020

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Journal Title

      装いと規範3――「伝統」と「ナショナル」を問い直す

      Volume: 95 Pages: 19-28

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Open Access
  • [Journal Article] The Transformation of the Kimono and Postwar Japanese Society: A Theory Concerning the Relationship between Humans and Clothes2019

    • Author(s)
      Michimasa Ogata
    • Journal Title

      Society and Theory

      Volume: 34(1) Pages: 111-138

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 借りモノとしての衣服2019

    • Author(s)
      小形 道正
    • Journal Title

      アステイオン

      Volume: 91 Pages: 103-105

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] 生活着の着物と衣服を作ること――終戦から1950年代(下)2018

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Journal Title

      Fashion Talks...

      Volume: 8 Pages: 38-45

    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Presentation] 戦後日本社会の着物文化――作る、買う、借りる2023

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Organizer
      日本家政学会被服心理学部会
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] 100年分の服――人間との関わりをみつめて2023

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Organizer
      東京ビエンナーレ2023
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] 贈与・収集・使用――現代日本の着物文化2023

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Organizer
      見田宗介/真木悠介を継承する
    • Related Report
      2023 Annual Research Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] 衣服をめぐる人間との関係―現代社会における和服の変容より2020

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Organizer
      京都大学東南アジア地域研究研究所ワークショップ「装いと規範」
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Invited
  • [Presentation] 戦後日本社会における着物の変容ーー人間と衣服の関係性の行方2019

    • Author(s)
      小形道正
    • Organizer
      ドレス・コード?――着る人たちのゲーム」展シンポジウム
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] Kimono and Japanese society from after World War II to the present: Theory of the relationship between humans and clothes2018

    • Author(s)
      Michimasa Ogata
    • Organizer
      Korean Society for Social Theory and The Society for Sociological Theory in Japan Joint Session
    • Related Report
      2018 Research-status Report
    • Int'l Joint Research
  • [Remarks] 事業報告等

    • URL

      https://www.kci.or.jp/profile/#content-report

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report 2018 Research-status Report

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Published: 2018-04-23   Modified: 2025-01-30  

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