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Formation and prediction of coastal rogue waves

Research Project

Project/Area Number 19K21981
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Challenging Research (Exploratory)

Allocation TypeMulti-year Fund
Review Section Medium-sized Section 22:Civil engineering and related fields
Research InstitutionHokkaido University

Principal Investigator

Yasunori Watanabe  北海道大学, 工学研究院, 教授 (20292055)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) 猿渡 亜由未  北海道大学, 工学研究院, 助教 (00563876)
森 信人  京都大学, 防災研究所, 教授 (90371476)
Project Period (FY) 2019-06-28 – 2022-03-31
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2021)
Budget Amount *help
¥6,370,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,900,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,470,000)
Fiscal Year 2021: ¥1,560,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,200,000、Indirect Cost: ¥360,000)
Fiscal Year 2020: ¥2,600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥600,000)
Fiscal Year 2019: ¥2,210,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,700,000、Indirect Cost: ¥510,000)
Keywords水工水理学 / 海岸工学 / 海洋工学
Outline of Research at the Start

本研究は,沿岸域における巨大波の発生を一般化する新たな理論体系を構築するものであり,巨大波の衝突及びその砕波に伴う莫大なエネルギーに対する構造物及び海浜の応答の実験的あるいは数値的再現調査から新たな防災イノベーションを誘導し,沿岸域での巨大波発生予測のための基盤技術及び知見を提供するものである.
本研究では,時空間的包絡波集中による沿岸巨大波生成理論を室内実験並びに数値実験によって実証するとともに,生成した巨大波群の来襲に対する海岸の脆弱性を評価する.さらに実海域での巨大波を発生させる気象条件,発生確率を推定し,その予測法の確立を目指す.

Outline of Final Research Achievements

A nonlinear wave model to estimate wave growth and maximum crest height of focussing wave groups was developed and validated with the experimental results. The shallow water wave focusing theory has been also extended to the one with wave-curent interactions. We found that the presence of opposing current significantly amplifies the focusing waves upto six times of the initial wave height, which depends on a wave spectrum of the initial wave group. We also performed physical and computational experiments to simulate planar focusing wave groups, and found that possible effects of nonlinear energy transfers among crossing waves and flip-through phenomenon caused by the crossing wave impacts to further growth of focussing waves expected in a coastal region.

Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements

従来の外洋で発生する巨大波と同一のメカニズムでは,沿岸域では巨大波は発生し得ないことは知られており,それ故高波による海岸災害が幾度となく繰り返されてきたにも拘らず既存の海岸工学の統計的枠組みを超えた巨大波の影響について考えられたことはなかった.本研究は,既に導出済みである浅水包絡波集中理論をベースに,沿岸域における巨大波の発生機構を実験的,数値的に再現し,異常波発生気象条件とその予測を支持する学術的根拠を与えるものである.本研究成果は,海岸防災に関わる新たなイノベーションを誘導するだけではなく,既存体系では予期できない超巨大波による未曽有の海外災害に備え強固な防災体系の実現を促すものである.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2021 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report ( PDF )
  • 2020 Research-status Report
  • 2019 Research-status Report
  • Research Products

    (19 results)

All 2022 2021 2020 2019 Other

All Int'l Joint Research (1 results) Journal Article (13 results) (of which Int'l Joint Research: 3 results,  Peer Reviewed: 11 results,  Open Access: 4 results) Presentation (4 results) Book (1 results)

  • [Int'l Joint Research] The University of Edinburgh(英国)

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] WAVE PACKET FOCUSING UNIFORM CURRENT2021

    • Author(s)
      WATANABE Yasunori、OGUMA Takashi
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 77 Issue: 2 Pages: I_31-I_36

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.77.2_I_31

    • NAID

      130008113345

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2021 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] A METHOD TO EVALUATE SUPERIMPOSITION TSUNAMI CAUSED BY SUBMARINE LANDSLIDE AND ACTIVE FAULT.2021

    • Author(s)
      KANETO Toshimichi、KIMURA Tatsuto、WATANABE Yasunori
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 77 Issue: 2 Pages: I_229-I_233

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.77.2_I_229

    • NAID

      130008113379

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2021 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Green infrastructure for the reduction of coastal disasters: a review of the protective role of coastal forests against tsunami, storm surge, and wind waves2021

    • Author(s)
      Chang Che-Wei、Mori Nobuhito
    • Journal Title

      Coastal Engineering Journal

      Volume: 63 Issue: 3 Pages: 370-385

    • DOI

      10.1080/21664250.2021.1929742

    • Related Report
      2021 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] Bubble drag in electrolytically generated microbubble swarms with bubble-vortex interactions2021

    • Author(s)
      Watanabe Yasunori、Oyaizu Haruhi、Satoh Hisashi、Niida Yasuo
    • Journal Title

      International Journal of Multiphase Flow

      Volume: 136 Pages: 103541-103541

    • DOI

      10.1016/j.ijmultiphaseflow.2020.103541

    • NAID

      120007034036

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access
  • [Journal Article] Wave Packet Focusing in Shallow Water2020

    • Author(s)
      Watanabe Y., Tsuda, Y., Saruwatari A.
    • Journal Title

      Coastal Engineering Journal

      Volume: 62 Issue: 2 Pages: 1756033-1756033

    • DOI

      10.1080/21664250.2020.1756033

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report 2019 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access
  • [Journal Article] Three‐dimensional antidunes coexisting with alternate bars2020

    • Author(s)
      Inoue Takuya、Watanabe Yasunori、Iwasaki Toshiki、Otsuka Junichi
    • Journal Title

      Earth Surface Processes and Landforms

      Volume: 45 Issue: 12 Pages: 2897-2911

    • DOI

      10.1002/esp.4938

    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access
  • [Journal Article] Formation and collapse of concentric focusing waves in Faraday wave field2020

    • Author(s)
      WATANABE Yasunori、KOJIMA Ryota
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 76 Issue: 2 Pages: I_13-I_18

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.76.2_I_13

    • NAID

      130007935775

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] MECHANISM TO FORM WIND WAVES VIA AIR-WATER INTERACTIONS IN WIND/OCEAN BOUNDARY LAYERS2020

    • Author(s)
      WATANABE Yasunori、TSUCHIYA Hirotaka
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 76 Issue: 2 Pages: I_157-I_162

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.76.2_I_157

    • NAID

      130007935774

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2020 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Probabilistic assessment of storm surge potential due to explosive cyclogenesis in the northwest Pacific region2019

    • Author(s)
      Saruwatari A.、Fukuhara K.、Watanabe Y.
    • Journal Title

      Coastal Engineering Journal

      Volume: 61 Issue: 4 Pages: 520-534

    • DOI

      10.1080/21664250.2019.1651519

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 浅水域の包絡集中波の波高予測2019

    • Author(s)
      津田洋輔, 渡部靖憲, 猿渡亜由未
    • Journal Title

      混相流シンポジウム講演論文集(Web)

      Volume: 2019

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] 日本周辺海域における台風に誘発される内部波振動モード2019

    • Author(s)
      足立天翔, 猿渡亜由未, 宮武誠, 渡部靖憲
    • Journal Title

      混相流シンポジウム講演論文集(Web)

      Volume: 2019

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Journal Article] On kurtosis and extreme waves in crossing directional seas: a laboratory experiment2019

    • Author(s)
      Luxmoore Jamie F.、Ilic Suzana、Mori Nobuhito
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Fluid Mechanics

      Volume: 876 Pages: 792-817

    • DOI

      10.1017/jfm.2019.575

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Journal Article] Experimental reconstruction of extreme sea waves by time reversal principle2019

    • Author(s)
      Ducrozet Guillaume、Bonnefoy Felicien、Mori Nobuhito、Fink Mathias、Chabchoub Amin
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Fluid Mechanics

      Volume: 884

    • DOI

      10.1017/jfm.2019.939

    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
    • Peer Reviewed / Open Access / Int'l Joint Research
  • [Presentation] 一様流れ中における集中包絡波2021

    • Author(s)
      小熊 多佳史
    • Organizer
      海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2021 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] 海底地すべりと活断層による津波の重畳評価手法の提案2021

    • Author(s)
      金戸 俊道
    • Organizer
      海岸工学講演会
    • Related Report
      2021 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] 浅水域の包絡集中波の波高予測2019

    • Author(s)
      津田洋輔
    • Organizer
      混相流シンポジウム
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Presentation] 日本周辺海域における台風に誘発される内部波振動モード2019

    • Author(s)
      足立天翔
    • Organizer
      混相流シンポジウム
    • Related Report
      2019 Research-status Report
  • [Book] Dynamics of Water Surface Flows and Waves2022

    • Author(s)
      Yasunori Watanabe
    • Total Pages
      300
    • Publisher
      Taylor & Franccis CRC Press
    • ISBN
      9780367690427
    • Related Report
      2021 Annual Research Report

URL: 

Published: 2019-07-04   Modified: 2023-01-30  

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