| Project/Area Number |
20500611
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Research Field |
Applied health science
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| Research Institution | Independent Administrative Institution Port and Airport Research Institute |
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Principal Investigator |
SUZUKI Kojiro Independent Administrative Institution Port and Airport Research Institute, 海洋水工部, チームリーダー (50360764)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
下迫 健一郎 (独)港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, チームリーダー (30392971)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2008 – 2010
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| Project Status |
Completed (Fiscal Year 2010)
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| Budget Amount *help |
¥4,680,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,600,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,080,000)
Fiscal Year 2010: ¥650,000 (Direct Cost: ¥500,000、Indirect Cost: ¥150,000)
Fiscal Year 2009: ¥1,040,000 (Direct Cost: ¥800,000、Indirect Cost: ¥240,000)
Fiscal Year 2008: ¥2,990,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,300,000、Indirect Cost: ¥690,000)
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| Keywords | 海岸工学 / サーフィン / 海洋利用 / スポーツ / 防災 |
|---|
| Research Abstract |
Surfer's maximum velocity (kinetic energy) obtained from wave motion is formulated as a function of surf similarity parameter (Combination parameter of surfing reef's front slope, wave length and water depth). The optimal shape of surfing reef is determined using this formula. Hydraulic experiment shows that the wave energy is dissipated after the wave breaking on the surfing reef. On the ebb tide, the wave height reduces to 30% due to wave breaking. On the other hand, large wave dissipation is not expected. Rip current at the lee side of surfing reef becomes larger and sometimes causes erosion. Surfing science and technology symposium was held 3 times. At the symposium, the benefit from surfing reef, the Tsunami control by reefs and etc were discussed.
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