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PREDICTION OF EXTREME WAVES FOR REALISTIC WEATHER CONDITION

Research Project

Project/Area Number 22360196
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionKyoto University

Principal Investigator

MORI Nobuhito  京都大学, 防災研究所, 准教授 (90371476)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) MASE Hajime  京都大学, 防災研究所, 教授 (30127138)
HIRAISHI Tetsuya  防災研究所, 教授 (20371750)
KAWAI Hiroyasu  独立行政法人 港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 研究チームリーダー (40371752)
HIRAYAMA Katsuya  独立行政法人・港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 研究チームリーダー (60371754)
KAWAGUCHI Koji  独立行政法人・港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 主任研究官 (50371753)
Co-Investigator(Renkei-kenkyūsha) KASHIMA Hiroaki  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 研究官 (60463098)
Project Period (FY) 2010 – 2012
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2012)
Budget Amount *help
¥17,680,000 (Direct Cost: ¥13,600,000、Indirect Cost: ¥4,080,000)
Fiscal Year 2012: ¥4,680,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,600,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,080,000)
Fiscal Year 2011: ¥7,280,000 (Direct Cost: ¥5,600,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,680,000)
Fiscal Year 2010: ¥5,720,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,400,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,320,000)
KeywordsFreak wave / 異常波浪 / 最大波高 / 方向スペクトル / 非線形干渉 / フリークウェーブ / 波浪 / 巨大波浪 / 気象条件 / 波浪災害 / 波浪予測 / 高波
Research Abstract

Extreme waves such as freak waves are studied to predict occurrence probability and dangerous area. The semi-empirical formula is proposed to estimate the maximum wave height in the wave train considering linear and nonlinear effects of random gravity wave train. The proposed formula is verified by the observed wave data in the ocean. A series of numerical simulation was performed to estimate dangerous area in the global scale. It is found that the westerly winds or seasonal storm areas, young wave age and short fetch, are possible dangerous area to potentially expect occurrence of extreme waves.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2012 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report ( PDF )
  • 2011 Annual Research Report
  • 2010 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (43 results)

All 2012 2011 2010 2009 Other

All Journal Article (28 results) (of which Peer Reviewed: 10 results) Presentation (13 results) Book (1 results) Remarks (1 results)

  • [Journal Article] Freak waves under typhoon conditions2012

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Geophysical Research, Ocean

      Volume: Vol.117, C00J07 Issue: C11 Pages: 12-12

    • DOI

      10.1029/2011jc007788

    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report 2012 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Freak Waveを考慮した波浪推算と全球における出現特性について2012

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・道前武尊・島田広昭・安田誠宏・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550665

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 波の遡上を考慮した強非線形ブシネスクモデルの現地海域への適用2012

    • Author(s)
      大久保陽介・間瀬 肇・辻尾大樹
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550752

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 風波の方向スペクトル幅の現地観測2012

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・山口 翼・中條壮大・安田誠宏・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550918

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] WRF-ROMS-S WA Nを用いたモデル間の結合の有無による気象・海象推算結果の比較2012

    • Author(s)
      二宮順一・森 信人・安田誠宏・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550820

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Freak Waveを考慮した波浪推算と全球における出現特性について2012

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・道前武尊・島田広昭・安田誠宏・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550665

    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 波の遡上を考慮した強非線形ブシネスクモデルの現地海域への適用2012

    • Author(s)
      大久保陽介・間瀬 肇・辻尾大樹
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550752

    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 風波の方向スペクトル幅の現地観測2012

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・山口 翼・中條壮大・安田誠宏・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550918

    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] WRF-ROMS-SWANを用いたモデル間の結合の有無による気象・海象推算結果の比較2012

    • Author(s)
      二宮順一・森 信人・安田誠宏・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550820

    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] On the estimation of the kurtosis in directional sea states for freak wave forecasting2011

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N., M. Onorato and P.A.E.M. Janssen
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Physical Oceanography, American Meteorological Society

      Volume: Vol. 41, No. 8 Issue: 8 Pages: 1484-1497

    • DOI

      10.1175/2011jpo4542.1

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report 2011 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] うねりと発達中の風波が混在する湾内における大気・海洋間運動量輸送2011

    • Author(s)
      木原直人・中屋 耕・坪野考樹・松山昌史・平口博丸・森 信人・鈴木崇之・武藤裕則
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550528

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 一方向波列の伝播過程におけるFreak Waveの出現と浅水変形の関係について2011

    • Author(s)
      加島寛章・平山克也・森 信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550395

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 現地観測データに基づく最高波高の推定とFreak Wave予測への応用2011

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・道前武尊・島田広昭・間瀬肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550406

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 風波とうねり共存場における波浪発達と高波の出現特性に関する研究2011

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・田中 遼・中條壮大・安田誠宏・間 瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550448

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 沖波出現分布形と年数回来襲を考慮した防波堤の滑動安定性評価2011

    • Author(s)
      辻尾大樹・間瀬 肇・森 信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550585

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Xバンドレーダによる波浪観測と空間波形の解析2011

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・紺野晶裕・中條壮大・間瀬 肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004550444

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 偶発波浪荷重対策としてのカウンターウェイトブロックの開発2011

    • Author(s)
      間瀬肇・平石哲也・川田達也・行本卓生・徳永誠之・松下紘資
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      120005540791

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 長期波浪推算結果に基づく日本沿岸の波浪特性2011

    • Author(s)
      川口浩二
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B3(海洋開発)

      Volume: Vol.67,No.2

    • NAID

      130004558531

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 一方向波列の伝播過程におけるFreak Waveの出現と浅水変形の関係について2011

    • Author(s)
      加島寛章・平山克也・森信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 67

    • NAID

      130004550395

    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 現地観測データに基づく最高波高の推定とFreak Wave予測への応用2011

    • Author(s)
      森信人・道前武尊・島田広昭・間瀬肇
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 67

    • NAID

      130004550406

    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Projection of Extreme Wave Climate Change under Global Warming2010

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N., T. Yasuda, H. Mase, T. Tom a n d Y. Oku
    • Journal Title

      Hydrological Research Letters

      Volume: 4 Issue: 0 Pages: 15-19

    • DOI

      10.3178/hrl.4.15

    • NAID

      130000249042

    • ISSN
      1882-3416
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Discussion of `Influence of spectral width on wave height parameter estimates in coastal environments' by Justin P. Vandever, Eric M. Sigel, John M. Brubaker and Carl T. Friedichs (2008)2010

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N., H. Mase and T. Yasuda
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers

      Volume: Volume 136, Issue 2 Issue: 2 Pages: 123-124

    • DOI

      10.1061/(asce)ww.1943-5460.42

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Freak waveの発生と気象条件の関係について2010

    • Author(s)
      森 信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.66 Pages: 116-120

    • NAID

      130004956470

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 台風シーズンにおけるリアルタイム波浪予測と精度検証2010

    • Author(s)
      Tracey Tom・池本 藍・間瀬 肇・安田誠宏・森 信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.66 Pages: 161-165

    • NAID

      130004956539

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 海洋表層鉛直混合におよぼす風応力と波浪の影響2010

    • Author(s)
      森 信人・鈴木崇之・木原直人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.6 Pages: 311-315

    • NAID

      130004956572

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Freak waveの発生と気象条件の関係について2010

    • Author(s)
      森信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 66 Pages: 116-120

    • NAID

      130004956470

    • Related Report
      2010 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 台風シーズンにおけるリアルタイム波浪予測と精度検証2010

    • Author(s)
      Tracey Tom・池本藍・間瀬肇・安田誠宏・森信人
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 66 Pages: 161-165

    • NAID

      130004956539

    • Related Report
      2010 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Freak Waves and Weather Conditions2010

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N., H.Mase, T.Yasuda
    • Journal Title

      Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering

      Volume: 1

    • NAID

      130004956470

    • Related Report
      2010 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Presentation] Wave Dynamics and Projection of Future Wave Climate2012

    • Author(s)
      Shimura, T., N.Mori, T.Yasuda and H.Mase
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE 2012), #654
    • Place of Presentation
      Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Improvement of Storm Surge Projection upon updating Air-Sea Interaction Parameterization using Coupled Model2012

    • Author(s)
      Ninomiya, J., N.Mori, T.Yasuda and H.Mase
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE 2012), #816
    • Place of Presentation
      Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Shallow Water Effects on Freak Wave Occurrence2012

    • Author(s)
      Kashima H., K. Hirayama and N. Mori
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of ISOPE2012
    • Place of Presentation
      Greece
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Wave Dynamics and Projection of Future Wave Climate2012

    • Author(s)
      Shimura, T., N.Mori, T.Yasuda and H.Mase
    • Organizer
      The 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Place of Presentation
      Santander, Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Improvement of Storm Surge Projection upon updating Air-Sea Interaction Parameterization using Coupled Model2012

    • Author(s)
      Ninomiya, J., N.Mori, T.Yasuda and H.Mase
    • Organizer
      The 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Place of Presentation
      Santander, Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Shallow Water Effects on Freak Wave Occurrence2012

    • Author(s)
      Kashima H., K. Hirayama and N. Mori
    • Organizer
      The 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Place of Presentation
      Santander, Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] 一方向波列の伝播過程におけるFreak Waveの出現と浅水変形の関係について2011

    • Author(s)
      加島寛章・平山克也・森信人
    • Organizer
      土木学会海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      いわて県民情報交流センター(岩手県盛岡市)
    • Year and Date
      2011-11-15
    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Real-time wave prediction and virtual buoy systems2011

    • Author(s)
      Mase. H., T. Tracey, A. Ikemoto, T. Yasuda and N. Mori
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of Coastal Disasters 2011,ASCE
    • Place of Presentation
      USA
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Numerical Experiments on Coastal Upper Ocean Mixing under Strong-Wind Conditions2011

    • Author(s)
      Nobuhito Mori, Yusuke Tanaka, Sota Nakajo, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of Asia Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      Hong Kong
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Influence of sea surface temperature on coastal urban area2011

    • Author(s)
      Junichi Ninomiya, Nobuhito Mori and Hiroyuki Kusaka
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of Asia Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      Hong Kong
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Freak waveの発生と気象条件の関係について2010

    • Author(s)
      森信人
    • Organizer
      土木学会海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      京都
    • Year and Date
      2010-11-13
    • Related Report
      2010 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Freak Waves and Weather Conditions2010

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N., H. Mase and T. Yasuda
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, #waves.70
    • Place of Presentation
      China.
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Stochastic typhoon model and its application to future typhoon projection2010

    • Author(s)
      Yasuda, T., H. Mase, S. Kunitomi, N. Moriand Y. Hayashi
    • Organizer
      Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, #management.16
    • Place of Presentation
      China.
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Book] Freak waves, in Hand book of Coastal and Ocean Engineering, Chapter 6, Ed. Young C. Kim2009

    • Author(s)
      Mori, N
    • Publisher
      World Scientific Pub. Co
    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report
  • [Remarks] ホームページ

    • URL

      http://www.coast.dpri.kyoto-u.ac.jp/

    • Related Report
      2012 Final Research Report

URL: 

Published: 2010-08-23   Modified: 2019-07-29  

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