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MECHANICS OF BEACH DEFORMATION DUE TO BREAKING WAVES

Research Project

Project/Area Number 59460144
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionTOTTORI UNIVERSITY

Principal Investigator

NODA HIDEAKI  Faculty of Engineering,Professor, TOTTORI UNIVERSITY, 工学部, 教授 (20027220)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) MATSUBARA YUHEI  Faculty of Engineering,Research Associate,TOTTORI UNIVERSITY, 工学部, 助手 (60116374)
Project Period (FY) 1984 – 1986
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1986)
Budget Amount *help
¥6,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥6,200,000)
Fiscal Year 1986: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Fiscal Year 1985: ¥1,000,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,000,000)
Fiscal Year 1984: ¥4,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,200,000)
KeywordsCharacteristics of breaking waves / Turbulence of breaking waves / Beach profile / On-off shore sediment transport / 直交多項式近似
Research Abstract

1. Experiments on characteristics of breaking waves: Experiments were carried out by using four kinds of deep-water wave steepness, that is the values of 0.019 to 0.048. The wave profiles of the breaking waves and the velocities near breaking points were measured on the slope of 1/15. A summary of the results is as follows:(1) It was clarified that a new instrument of calibration for hot-film velocity meter, which was developed in this study, is available to calibrate easily. (2) The phenomena of ejection or sweep which are related to the generation and development of turbulence due to breaking waves were found by the time variation of Reynolds stresses measured near the breaking point. (3) In the case of large values of deep-water wave steepness, it is shown that the turbulence is propagated to the offshore region of breaking point by investigating the variation of the fluctuating turbulent velocity components.
2.Deformation of two-dimensional beach profiles: Experiments on beach profile deformation were conducted by the same condition with that of dreaking waves. The results obtained are summarized as follows:(1) Two-dimensional beach profiles may be expressed in terms of the orthogonal polynomial macroscopically. (2) It is clarified that on-offshore sediment transport rate is calculated by applying the orthogonal polynomial. The results agree with those of previous studies macroscopically, except the randam variation of beach profiles.

Report

(1 results)
  • 1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • Research Products

    (6 results)

All Other

All Publications (6 results)

  • [Publications] 稲垣佳之,野田英明: 第38回土木学会中国四国支部研究発表会講演概要集. 38. 193-194 (1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 坂本達也,野田英明: 第39回土木学会中国四国支部研究発表会講演概要集. 39. (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 永瀬恭一,野田英明: 第39回土木学会中国四国支部研究発表会講演概要集. 39. (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] INAGAKI, Keiichi, MATSUBARA, Yuuhei and NODA, Hideaki: "Turbulence developed by braking waves." Proceeding of 38th Conference of Chugoku-sikoku Division of JSCE. 38. 193-194 (1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] SAKAMOTO, Tatuya and NODA,Hideaki: "Experiments on turbulent characteristics of breaking waves" Proceeding of 39th Conference of Chugoku-sikoku Division of JSCE. 39. (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] NAGASE, Kyouichi and NODA, Hideaki: "Experimenta study on on-off shore sediment transport rate" Proceeding of 39th Conference of Chugoku-sikoku Division of JSCE. 39. (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary

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Published: 1987-03-31   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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