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Research on space-time structure of turbulence in surf zone

Research Project

Project/Area Number 60550361
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionKyoto University

Principal Investigator

SAKAI Tetsuo  Assoc. Prof., Faculty of Eng., Kyoto Univ., 工学部, 助教授 (30026182)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) MASE Hajime  Research Associate, Faculty of Eng., Kyoto Univ., 工学部, 助手 (30127138)
ASANO Toshiyuki  Research Associate, Faculty of Eng., Kyoto Univ., 工学部, 助手 (40111918)
HIRAYAMA Hideo  Prof., Osaka Prefectual Technical College, 教授 (30026356)
Project Period (FY) 1985 – 1986
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1986)
Budget Amount *help
¥2,100,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,100,000)
Fiscal Year 1986: ¥600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥600,000)
Fiscal Year 1985: ¥1,500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,500,000)
Keywordswave breaking / numerical simulation / circulation / 渦度
Research Abstract

The turbulence in surf zone has been investigated by measuring a velocity at several points in the surf zone. Large-scale motion in surf zone including a horizontal vortex-like motion is important in the sense that it generates and convect the turbulence. Here the large-scale motion in surf zone is investigated by a flow-visualization and a numerical simulation.
It is tried to explain the time variation of vertical distribution of turbulence during one wave period by using one simple qualitative model. It is assumed that a velocity defect corresponding to that in the turbulent wake and mixing layer is generated by the plunging of water mass from wave crest and is convected by the mean flow.
In the plunging breaker, the scale of plunging of water mass is large. The large horizontal vortex-like motion and the turbulence generated by a large velocity gradient between the plunging jet and the trough water is predominant. They are observed by a flow-visualization in a wave tank. It is found that a process of the plunging of water mass, splash from trough water surface and horizontal vortex-like motion is repeated.
A numerical analysis is done to clarify the motion in surf zone quantitatively by using a MAC method. The model is two-dimensional, and the size of cell is 0.5cm. It is impossible to simulate the so-called slanting vortex and the existence of water drops and air bubbles. Nevertheless, a very high speed of water particle in the jet, time variation of circulation value of the horizontal vortex-like motion and spacial distributions of a vorticity and pressure are clarified.

Report

(1 results)
  • 1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • Research Products

    (6 results)

All Other

All Publications (6 results)

  • [Publications] 酒井哲郎: 土木学会論文集. 357号. 207-216 (1985)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 酒井哲郎・田中秀明: 第32回海岸工学講演会論文集,土木学会. 70-74 (1985)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Sakai,T.;Mizutani,T.;Tanaka,H.;Tada,Y.: Proc.of 20th Conf.on Coastal Eng.(1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tetsuo Sakai: "Turbulence due to wave breaking on beach" Proc. of Japan Soc. of Civil Eng.,. 357. 207-216 (1985)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tetsuo Sakai and Hideaki Tanaka: "Plunging of water mass and behaviour of vortex in wave breaking on beach" Proc. of 32nd Japanese Conf. on Coastal Eng., Japan Soc. of Civil Eng.70-74 (1985)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tetsuo Sakai, Taisaku Mizutani, Hideaki Tanaka and Yukio Tada: "Vortex formation in plunging breaker" Proc. of 20th Conf. on Coastal Eng., American Soc. of Civil Eng.(1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1986 Final Research Report Summary

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Published: 1987-03-31   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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