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Modeling on Transformation Process of Beach Profiles

Research Project

Project/Area Number 61460168
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionKyoto University

Principal Investigator

SAKAI Tetsuo (1987)  Kyoto University, Associate Professor, 工学部, 助教授 (30026182)

岩垣 雄一 (1986)  京大, 工学部, 教授 (90027201)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) HIRAYAMA Hideo  Osaka Prefectual Technical College, Professor, 教授 (30026356)
MASE Hajime  Kyoto University, Research Associate, 工学部, 助手 (30127138)
ASANO Toshiyuki  Kyoto University, Research Associate, 工学部, 助手 (40111918)
IWAGAKI Yuichi  Meijo University, Professor, 理工学部, 教授 (90027201)
酒井 哲郎  京都大学, 工学部, 助教授 (30026182)
Project Period (FY) 1986 – 1987
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1987)
Budget Amount *help
¥2,700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,700,000)
Fiscal Year 1987: ¥500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥500,000)
Fiscal Year 1986: ¥2,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,200,000)
KeywordsBeach process / Plunging breaker / Large scale vortex / Mass transport velocity / Bottom boundary layer / 浮遊砂 / 大規模渦
Research Abstract

This project has been carried out to obtain fundamental knowledge which describes the mechanism of beach transformation under wave action. Large scale vortices generated by wave breaking play an important role for the sediment movement in the surf zone. To clarify the mechanism, Sakai has performed a numerical analysis with a marker and cell method to simulate a violent motion after an impinging of a jet from a crest of a plunging breaker. Asano has calculated the turbulent energy close to a bottom under wave motion with a k-e model, and investigated the sediment concentration under the calculated turbulent energy by using a stochastic method. Mase has proposed a calculation model of random wave transformation including wave breaking on a uniform slope. The model gives useful information for the sediment movement under random waves. Hirayama has developed a new theory concerning the mass transport velocity due to waves on a uniform slope. The result is important because the mass transport velocity is closely related to the sediment movement. Iwagaki has summarized the above fundamental results and clarified that the transformation of a beach profile can be explained by the spatial variation of the net velocity of a sediment.

Report

(2 results)
  • 1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • 1986 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (18 results)

All Other

All Publications (18 results)

  • [Publications] Sakai Tetsuo: Proc. of 20th International Conf. on Coastal Eng.Vol. 1. 711-723 (1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 酒井哲郎: 第34回海岸工学講演会論文集. 71-75 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 酒井哲郎: 昭和63年度土木学会関西支部年次学術講演会講演概要集. II-40-1-II-40-2 (1988)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 浅野敏之: 第34回海岸工学講演会論文集. 261-265 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 間瀬肇: 土木学会論文集. 375. 221-230 (1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 平山秀夫: 第34回海岸工学講演会論文集. 6-10 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 岩垣雄一: "最新海岸工学" 森北出版, 250 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tetsuo Sakai: "Vortex formation in plunging breaker" Proc. of 20th International Conf. on Coastal Engg.I. 711-723 (1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Tetsuo Sakai: "Numerical Analysis on the dynamics of after plunging type breaking waves on a uniform slope" Proc. of 34th Japanese Conference of Coastal Engg.71-75 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Toshiyuki Asano: "Numerical Analysis on sediment suspention due to turbulence under oscillatory flows" Proc. of 34th Japanese Conference of Coastal Engg.261-265 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Hajime Mase: "A calculation model on the transformation of irregular breaking waves" Proc. of Japanese Society of Civil Engineers. 375. 221-230 (1986)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Hideo Hirayama: "Theoretical Study on mass transport velocity due to waves on a uniform slope beach" Proc. of 34th Japanese Conference on Coastal Engineering. 6-10 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Yuichi Iwagaki: Morikita Publishing Co.The Newest Coastal Engineering, 250 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1987 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 浅野敏之: 第33回海岸工学講演会論文集. 51-55 (1986)

    • Related Report
      1986 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Sakai,Tetsuo: Proc.of 20th Conf.on Coastal Eng.,ASCE. (1986)

    • Related Report
      1986 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 間瀬肇: 土木学会論文集. 375号. 221-230 (1986)

    • Related Report
      1986 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 平山秀夫: 昭和62年度土木学会関西支部年次学術講演会概要集. (1987)

    • Related Report
      1986 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 岩垣雄一: 昭和62年度土木学会関西支部年次学術講演会概要集. (1987)

    • Related Report
      1986 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1987-03-31   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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