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Experimental Study on Wave Breaking in Relation to Coastal Processes

Research Project

Project/Area Number 62460159
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionUniversity of Tsukuba

Principal Investigator

NISHIMURA Hitoshi  Assoc. Prof., Inst. of Eng. Mech., Univ. of Tsukuba, 構造工学系, 助教授 (00010819)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) SHIRAKAWA Tomonori  Assoc. Prof., Inst. of Eng. Mech., Univ. of Tsukuba, 構造工学系, 助教授 (20112021)
MOSHINO Tsutomu  Prof., Inst. of Eng. Mech., Univ. of Tsukuba, 構造工学系, 教授 (30027130)
SUNAMURA Tsuguo  Assoc. Prof., Inst. of Geoscience, Univ. of Tsukuba, 地球科学系, 助教授 (00011164)
Project Period (FY) 1987 – 1988
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1988)
Budget Amount *help
¥3,100,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,100,000)
Fiscal Year 1988: ¥1,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,300,000)
Fiscal Year 1987: ¥1,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,800,000)
KeywordsWater Wave / Wave Breaking / Vortex / Flow Visualization / Picture Analysis / Lagrangian Coordinates / 数値流体解析 / 水面波動 / 数値シミュレーション
Research Abstract

Experimental techniques of flow visualization and picture analysis have been applied to the investigation of wave breaking as well as the Lagrangian framework for numerical computation. Instantaneous velocity fields under wave wave breaking conditions could precisely be obtained by utilizing a measuring system of a high-speed VTR camera and an A-D converter with scattered polystyrene beads as tracers. Technical difficulties that accompany numerical analyses based on the Lagrangian description were coped with in devising both velocity and pressure solution methods.
Application of these techniques permitted new approaches to wave breaking phenomena, leading to the conclusion that occurrence of low pressure region in the vicinity of a wave crest is the most direct and apparent breaking index. Increases in horizontal and vertical velocity components respectively cause such catastrophes in progressive and standing breakers.
Another series of wave-tank experiments were conducted for macroscopic investigation of wave breaking on a steep beach and resultant vortices. The experimental data indicates that the demarcation of spilling, plunging, collapsing and surging breakers is clearly made in terms of the deepwater wave steepness and bottom slope. It was also found that oblique and horizontal voltices occur in different ranges of the bottom slope and Reynolds number defined by using the breaking wave height and celerity

Report

(3 results)
  • 1988 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 1987 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (17 results)

All Other

All Publications (17 results)

  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 土木学会論文集. 393/IIー9. 191-199 (1988)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 第35回海岸工学講演会論文集. 45-48 (1988)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] Nishimura Hitoshi: Coastal Engineering in Japan. 30. 1-7 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 第36回海岸工学講演会論文集. (1989)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 砂村継夫: 第36回海岸工学講演会論文集. (1989)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 砂村継夫: 第36回海岸工学講演会論文集. (1989)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Nishimura: "Numerical analysis of surface waves using Lagrangian description" Coastal Engineering in Japan. 30. 1-7 (1987)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Nishimura: "Numerical anlysis of two-dimensional wave motion using Lagrangian description" Proceeding of Japan Society of Civil Engineers. 393/II-9. 191-199 (1988)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Nishimura: "Correlation analysis of VTR pictures for the evaluation of velocity fields under wave breaking conditions" Proc. 35th Japanese Conf. on Coastal Eng.45-48 (1988)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] H. Nishimura: "A study on the mechanism of standing wave breaking" Proc. 36th Japanese Conf. on Coastal Eng.

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] T. Sunamura: "Conditions for Occurrence of vortices associated with wave breaking" Proc. 36th Japanese Conf. on Coastal Eng.

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      1988 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 土木学校論文集. 393/II-9. 191-199 (1988)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 第35回海岸工学講演会論文集. 45-48 (1988)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 第36回海岸工学講演会論文集. (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 砂村,継夫: 第36回海岸工学講演会論文集. (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 砂村,継夫: 第36回海岸工学講演会論文集. (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 西村仁嗣: 海岸工学講演会論文集. 35. (1988)

    • Related Report
      1987 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1987-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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