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Reconstructive Study of the Ainu Clothes

Research Project

Project/Area Number 63580068
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field 家政学
Research InstitutionShowa Women's University

Principal Investigator

MURAI Fujiko  Life aethetics section, professor, 家政学部・生活美学科, 教授 (20054132)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) TANII Yoshiko  Life culture section, lecture, 短期大学部・生活文化学科, 講師 (10095929)
KIKUCHI Michiko  Life culture section, lecture, 短期大学部・生活文化学科, 講師 (00054172)
HINO Ikuko  Life aesthetics section, professor, 家政学部・生活美学科, 教授 (60146909)
MURAI Fujiko  Life aesthetics section, professor (20054132)
Project Period (FY) 1988 – 1989
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 1990)
Budget Amount *help
¥1,600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,600,000)
Fiscal Year 1989: ¥700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥700,000)
Fiscal Year 1988: ¥900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000)
KeywordsAinu clothes / Atsushi / Tosabayashi collection / Kurokireokimoni / Irokireokimoni / Elm bark / Race interchange / Coat with geometric applique design / 白布切抜文衣 / 無切伏刺繍衣 / 樹皮繊維 / 靱皮繊維 / アッシ
Research Abstract

We have studied 64 pieces of Ainu clothes actually. And we have learned the following observations as a result.
1. Form : The Ainu clothes are very much like Japanese Hanten. They are made up of body, sleeves and collars. Sleeves have 2 forms ; Mojiri sleeves and tight sleeves. The average body length is 114.0 cm. There are some clothes which have a wider size with gore. The collar is generally back-collar.
2. Stuff : They are divided in 3 categories---their own stuffs, those imported from Honshu, and those imported from the continent. Those stuffs gained by trade are very precious and they are used very specially.
3. Size : The Ainu clothes are made personally, and there are no common sizes. They are measured by their hands and fingers, so there often are some unbalance between right half and left one.
4. Sewing : There are no special rules for the methods of sew ups and finishings. Varying degrees of skill are seen in their works.
5. Materials and structural peculiarities : Microscopes are used for judging material differences of cloth and threads. And structural peculiarities are measured according to JIS L 1096. Cloth is plain fabrics, mostly cotton. Wool, silk and elm bark are used on rare occasions. Most threads are cotton. silk, threads made of tanned skin and venous fibers are sometimes used. Threads are single or twisted, and the directions of twisting, number of twisting threads and their thickness are indefinite.
6. Patterns : The unit patterns are being interplaced. The central patterns are Aiushi Moreu. Some of the technical peculiarities are applique and the special method of sharpening the end of embroidery like a thorn.

Report

(3 results)
  • 1990 Final Research Report Summary
  • 1989 Annual Research Report
  • 1988 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (9 results)

All Other

All Publications (9 results)

  • [Publications] 村井不二子,日野伊久子,菊地美知子,谷井淑子: "アイヌ衣服の復元的調査研究(1)" 学〓. 601. 26-44 (1989)

    • Related Report
      1989 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 村井不二子,日野伊久子,菊地美知子,谷井淑子: "アイヌ衣服の復元的調査研究(2)" 学〓. 20-25 (1990)

    • Related Report
      1989 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 村井不二子,日野伊久子,菊地美知子,谷井淑子: "アイヌ衣服の復元的調査研究(3)" 学〓. 20-25 (1990)

    • Related Report
      1989 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 村井不二子,日野伊久子,菊地美知子,谷井淑子: "アイヌ衣服の復元的調査研究(4)" 学〓. 20-25 (1990)

    • Related Report
      1989 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 村井不二子,日野伊久子,菊地美知子,谷井淑子: "アイヌ衣服の復元的調査研究(5)" 学〓. 20-25 (1990)

    • Related Report
      1989 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 村井不二子: 学苑. 8-9 (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 日野伊久子: 学苑. 8-9 (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 菊地美知子: 学苑. 8-9 (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 谷井淑子: 学苑. 8-9 (1989)

    • Related Report
      1988 Annual Research Report

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Published: 1988-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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