Reconstructive Study of the Ainu Clothes
| Project/Area Number |
63580068
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Research Field |
家政学
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| Research Institution | Showa Women's University |
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Principal Investigator |
MURAI Fujiko Life aethetics section, professor, 家政学部・生活美学科, 教授 (20054132)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
TANII Yoshiko Life culture section, lecture, 短期大学部・生活文化学科, 講師 (10095929)
KIKUCHI Michiko Life culture section, lecture, 短期大学部・生活文化学科, 講師 (00054172)
HINO Ikuko Life aesthetics section, professor, 家政学部・生活美学科, 教授 (60146909)
MURAI Fujiko Life aesthetics section, professor (20054132)
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| Project Period (FY) |
1988 – 1989
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| Project Status |
Completed (Fiscal Year 1990)
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| Budget Amount *help |
¥1,600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,600,000)
Fiscal Year 1989: ¥700,000 (Direct Cost: ¥700,000)
Fiscal Year 1988: ¥900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000)
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| Keywords | Ainu clothes / Atsushi / Tosabayashi collection / Kurokireokimoni / Irokireokimoni / Elm bark / Race interchange / Coat with geometric applique design / 白布切抜文衣 / 無切伏刺繍衣 / 樹皮繊維 / 靱皮繊維 / アッシ |
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| Research Abstract |
We have studied 64 pieces of Ainu clothes actually. And we have learned the following observations as a result.
1. Form : The Ainu clothes are very much like Japanese Hanten. They are made up of body, sleeves and collars. Sleeves have 2 forms ; Mojiri sleeves and tight sleeves. The average body length is 114.0 cm. There are some clothes which have a wider size with gore. The collar is generally back-collar.
2. Stuff : They are divided in 3 categories---their own stuffs, those imported from Honshu, and those imported from the continent. Those stuffs gained by trade are very precious and they are used very specially.
3. Size : The Ainu clothes are made personally, and there are no common sizes. They are measured by their hands and fingers, so there often are some unbalance between right half and left one.
4. Sewing : There are no special rules for the methods of sew ups and finishings. Varying degrees of skill are seen in their works.
5. Materials and structural peculiarities : Microscopes are used for judging material differences of cloth and threads. And structural peculiarities are measured according to JIS L 1096. Cloth is plain fabrics, mostly cotton. Wool, silk and elm bark are used on rare occasions. Most threads are cotton. silk, threads made of tanned skin and venous fibers are sometimes used. Threads are single or twisted, and the directions of twisting, number of twisting threads and their thickness are indefinite.
6. Patterns : The unit patterns are being interplaced. The central patterns are Aiushi Moreu. Some of the technical peculiarities are applique and the special method of sharpening the end of embroidery like a thorn.
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Report
(3 results)
Research Products
(9 results)
