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1991 Fiscal Year Final Research Report Summary

Methodology for Controlling Beach Erosion by Large Coastal Structures and Its Application

Research Project

Project/Area Number 01850121
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Developmental Scientific Research

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionKyoto University

Principal Investigator

TSUCHIYA Yoshito  Professor, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, 防災研究所, 教授 (90025883)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) YAMASHITA Takao  Instructor, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, 防災研究所, 助手 (30111983)
YASUDA Takashi  Professor, Faculty of Engineering, Gifu University, 工学部, 教授 (10093329)
KAWATA Toshiaki  Associate Professor, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, 防災研究所, 助教授 (10027295)
Project Period (FY) 1989 – 1991
KeywordsBeach erosion / Erosion control / Beach change / Beach stabilization / Headland / Methodology for erosion control / Ogata coast
Research Abstract

Based on the mechanism of beach erosion by a large coastal structure, a methodology for beach erosion control has been developed, and its applicability has also been investigated. The main results can be summarized as :
1. Beach erosion by a large coastal structure is due to 1) impediment of longshore sediment transport by the structure, 2) formation of nearshore, circulation by changing wave field by the structure, and 3) reflected waves by sea walls and dikes. The mechanism of beach erosion was clearly shown by numerical simulations of shoreline change and nearshore circulation. Based on the mechanism a methodology for beach erosion control by headlands was proposed in relation to the formation of stable sandy beaches.
2. Proposed are 1) a 3D model for sea bottom topography change prediction based on the coupled system of the governing equations of wair transformation, nearshore currents and bottom topography change, and 2) a long-term shoreline change prediction model by introducing the sorting phenomena of bottom sediment and horizontal mixing coefficients in surf zones. By the 3D model, sea bottom topography changes were shown in the formation process of stable sandy beach. By the long-term model, changes of shoreline and sediment properties in beach erosion were numerically predicted. By use of the numerical simulations, the applicability of the proposed methodology was discussed.
3. An application of the methodology was made to Ogata coast. Construction of a headland has been being made. Sea bottom topography change by constructing a headland was observed, and predicted by the proposed models. Additionally, beach erosion in the reduction process of river deltas was investigated to find the applicability of the methodology for beach erosion control.
It was concluded from these results that the proposed methodology for beach erosion control by headlands is applicable to stabilize the sandy beaches being eroded by large coastal structures.

  • Research Products

    (18 results)

All Other

All Publications (18 results)

  • [Publications] 山下 隆男,土屋 義人,松山 昌史,鈴木 剛: "海浜変形数値モデル" 京都大学防災研究所年報. 33. 503-542 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsuchiya,Y.,T.Yamashita and R.Silvester: "Beach erosion due to large coastal structure and its control" Proc,22nd Coastal Engineering Conference,ASCE. 2726-2739 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 安田 孝志,西尾 保之: "砕波帯を進む現地波浪のモデル化" 海岸工学論文集. 37. 66-70 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 土屋 義人: "安定海浜工法,その理論と実際" 土木学会誌. 3月号. 15-17 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 土屋 義人: "安定海浜の形成と海岸侵食制御についてー安定海浜工法とは?ー" (社)全国海岸協会海岸実務講義集. 11-26 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 安田 孝志,西尾 保之,山本 康裕: "砕波帯における現地波浪の拡散係数について" 海岸工学論文集. 37. 66-70 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 山下 隆男,土屋 義人,熊谷 隆宏: "安定海浜の数値シミュレ-ション" 海岸工学論文集. 37. 391-395 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 土屋 義人,山下 隆男,都丸 徳治: "大規模海岸構造物による海岸侵食の機構" 海岸工学論文集. 37. 436-440 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] Refaat,H.E.A.A.and Y.Tsuchiya: "Formation and reduction processes of river deltas--Theory and experiments--" Bulletin,Disas.Prev.Res.Inst.,Kyoto Univ.41. 177-224 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] Yamashita, T., Y. Tsuchiya, M. Matsuyama and T. Suzuki: "Numerical model for beach change predictions, Annuals" Disas. Prev. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ. (in Japanese).No. 33 B-2. 503-542 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsuchiya, Y., t. Yamashita and R. Silvester: "Beach erosion due to large coastal structure and its control" Proc. 22nd Coastal Eng. Conf., ASCE. 2726-2739 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Yasuda, T. and Y. Nishio: "Modeling of waves propagating in surf zones" Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE (in Japanese). 37. 66-70 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsuchiya, Y.: "A methodology for beach erosion control by headlands, its principle and applications (in Japanese)" Jour. JSCE. 15-17 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsuchiya, Y.: "Formation of stable sandy beaches and beach erosion control--What is the methodology for beach erosion control by headlands?, Lecture Notes for Coastal Engineers" Japanese Coasts Assoc. (in japanese). 11-26 (1990)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Yasuda, T., Y. Nishio and Y. Yamamoto: "Horizontal mixing coefficients in surf zones." Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE (in Japanese). 37. 66-70 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Yamashita, T., Y. Tsuchiya and T. Kumagai: "Numerical simulations of stable sandy beaches" Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE (in Japanese). 37. 391-395 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsuchiya Y., T. Yamashita and T. Tomaru: "Mechanism of beach erosion by large coastal structures," Proc. Coastal Eng., JSCE (in Japanese). 37. 436-440 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Refaat, H. E. A. A. and Y. Tsuchiya: "Formation and reduction processes of river deltas, Bulletin" Dias. Prev. Res. Inst., Kyoto Univ.41, No. 360. 177-224 (1991)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より

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Published: 1993-03-16  

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