1993 Fiscal Year Final Research Report Summary
Bidirectional Waves in Shallow Water and KP equation.
| Project/Area Number |
04650469
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Research Field |
Hydraulic engineering
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| Research Institution | CHUO UNIVERSITY |
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Principal Investigator |
MIZUGUCHI Masaru Chuo Univ.Scinece & Eng.Prof., 理工学部, 教授 (50011234)
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| Project Period (FY) |
1992 – 1993
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| Keywords | Bi-directional waves / KP equation / Muliti-directional wave maker |
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| Research Abstract |
A simple procedure to calculate weakly nonlinear bi-directional waves in shallow water is proposed. The procedure uses the analytical solution of KP equation given by Segur and Finkel(1985). The calculated bi-directional waves, for given waves with different incident angles, show nonlinear increase (or decrease)of the wave crest height, depending on the intersecting wave angle and their Ursell numbers.
Experiments are planned to check the validity of analytical results. However, waves generated by a multi-directional wave maker show large spatial variation of wave height. After theoretical investigation of the wave maker theory for the multi-directional wave maker, it is found that the spatial variation can be suppressed by properly controling the amplitude of wave paddle motion at both ends. Usefulness of this "end control method" is confirmed in the experiment.
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