We shall try to design the clothing pattern of each individual body shape by the computer. The central problem of the pattern making is to construct a body curved shape on the three dimensions by using a cloth plane on the two dimensions. Therefore, the deficiency factor on the developed pattern of the body and the clothing was investigated, On the developed pattern of the body and the clothing, it appeared as the gap lengths on the body measurement lines, And on the three dimensional body curved surface and clothing, it was understood as the curvature (deficiency angle)
In fifty replicas of young female, the gap lengths of the back trunk development and the bodice pattern of front and back were understood quantitatibly, and the feature of the trunk and the bodice shapes were grasped by their values. Front and back bodice patterns of sixty young female may be drafted by using the estimated gap lengths, which were calculated with the plane geometric equations, without the draping. Patter
n making by the like draping system may be finished by using the drafting on the computer.
On three dimensional body surface and the bodice surface of cacnvex hull, developability, curve line on development, and the three dimensional curve of them is defined by using Gaussian curvature, Geometric curvature, and Mean Curvature. If only Concentrated Gaussian Curvature(deficiency angle=2pi-theta) of arbitray point on a surface is equal to zero, the surface may be said the plane and developably one. On a curved surface, that isn't zero. Sum of two integrated values, Concenrated Gaussian Curvature inside a surface and Geodesic Curvature on the boundary curve, is equal to the multiplied value of 2pi and Euler number. The sum of two curvatures in each trunk surface and convec bodice of the two hundred and three young female was the same value (-2x2pi) . The feature of those trunk surfaces and the convec bodices surfaces were grasped as the exchange of the three curvatures, and the color simulations by the different curvatures of them were displayed. The calcultive bodice by convec method with covered the trunk would be designed on the three dimensions by the computer, without the draping. Concenrated Gaussian Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk, therefore Concenrated Geodesic Curvature of the convec bodice was large. And Mean Curvature of the convec bodice was smaller than it of the trunk. The convec bodice was a like plane clothing. Five types of the trunk surfaces and convec bodices were classified according to principal component anaysis by correlation. Combination factors of five areas (bust, upper brest, shoulder, back, side areas) and three Lines (neckbace, armscye, waist lines) were classified. The gaps on the three dimentions of between the convec bodice and trunk surface were calculated by the volume. The gaps of bust areas were big, and the gaps of back and upper breast etc. were small. Three factor of body and convec bodice type were classified according to the volume. The curvatures of 181 points of right body and convec bodice surface, and the gaps of the 294 faces of right body and convec bodice were color displayed, making it a highly informative tool for understanding for clothing design. Less