2000 Fiscal Year Final Research Report Summary
Quantitative approach to a group of waves with long waves in shoaling and breaking
| Project/Area Number |
11650534
|
|---|
| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
|
| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
|---|
| Section | 一般 |
|---|
| Research Field |
水工水理学
|
|---|
| Research Institution | CHUO UNIVERSITY |
|---|
Principal Investigator |
MIZUGUCHI Masaru Chuo University, Faculty of Science and Engineering, Professor, 理工学部, 教授 (50011234)
|
|---|
| Project Period (FY) |
1999 – 2000
|
| Keywords | long waves / wave group / swash / single group of waves |
|---|
| Research Abstract |
It may be possible to describe the behavior of the field waves in the swash zone reasonably well by decomposing the waves into short period (breaking wind) waves and long period (non-breaking) waves. Here well-planned laboratory experiment were performed and compared with a new model, which is developed by incorporating the existing research findings.
The model developed here is to predict the swash oscillation for grouping waves and its essence is as follows :
1) For short waves, swash motion may follow parabolic curve.
2) For long waves,
a) incoming free waves propagate freely to the shoreline,
b) bound long waves may proppagete with the wave group without changing its magnitude upto the breaking point,
c) long waves generated by time-varying breakpoint may be evaluated by Mizuguchi (1995) model.
3) All these long waves are free after breaking (of short waves) and are fully reflected at the shoreline.
Comparison of experimental results with those in the model shows that even the temporal profile of the swash oscillation can be simulated fairly well. The model may be worth to be improved for applying to the field data.
|
