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2003 Fiscal Year Final Research Report Summary

Role of wave breaking on the growth and decay of wind-waves and the sea surface flux of momentum, heat and gasses such as CO2.

Research Project

Project/Area Number 12304025
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (A)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field Meteorology/Physical oceanography/Hydrology
Research InstitutionKyushu University

Principal Investigator

MASUDA Akira  Kyushu University, Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Prof, 応用力学研究所, 教授 (60091401)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) YASUDA Takashi  Kyushu University, Faculty of Engineering, Prof, 工学部, 教授 (10093329)
MATSUNAGA Nobuhiro  Kyushu University, Interdisciplinary Graduate School, Prof, 総合理工学研究院, 教授 (50157335)
KARASUDANI Takashi  Kyushu University, Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Assoc.Prof, 応用力学研究所, 助教授 (30150527)
UENO Koji  Meteorological College, Assoc.Prof, 気象大学校, 助教授
TANAKA Mitsuhiro  Kyushu University, Faculty of Engineering, Prof, 工学部, 教授 (70163582)
Project Period (FY) 2000 – 2003
Keywordsbreaking of wind-waves / surface coverage of white cap / swell effect on wind-waves / sea surface flux of CO2 / numerical simulation of waves / sea surface roughness and drag coefficient / turbulence beneath the sea surface / spectral evolution of wind-waves and swell
Research Abstract

1.[swell and wind-waves]
(1)Swell propagating with wind is known to suppress the growth of wind-waves. The suppression rate calculated based on the recently proposed hypothesis of Chen and Belcher was found to agree well with the result of the laboratory experiment, though careful verification is necessary. (2)A new term of swell dissipation was introduced to the operating MRI wave model. This term proved to much improve the accuracy of wave prediction off Hawaii in the Pacific, where most wave models have failed to predict the swell well so far.
2.[wave breaking and water turbulence]
(1)The surface flow was observed in a thin layer that is about twice as thick as the significant wave height under strong wind and intense wave breaking. A new model of the vertical distribution of surface flow was proposed based on that measurement. (2)As regards the dissipation of wave energy, a simple model of wave breaking was incorporated into a numerical model for the direct numerical simulation of irr … More otational waves. That model yielded an estimate of energy dissipation that is compared favorably with laboratory experiments and wave prediction models.
3.[whitecap]
Wave breaking is detected by a visible phenomenon of "whitecap". Based on the observation under various wind-sea conditions, whitecap coverage was confirmed to increase rapidly with the third power of wind velocity. Also whitecap coverage was found relatively high for (1)unstable density stratification, (2)decaying waves, and (3)wind-waves unaffected by swell.
4.[CO2 concentration and flux ]
(1)Daily variation and regional characteristics of atmospheric CO2 concentration was observed at Tsushima and Shikanoshima in the Eastern Tsushima Strait. (2)It was pointed out that correction due to the effect of vapor and temperature is necessary when eddy-correlation method is used to measure the CO2 flux in summer. (3)In a wind flume, CO2 flux across the water surface was measured accurately. Gas exchange velocity was found to depend not only on the wind velocity, but also on the fetch and a new empirical formula was proposed to express the fetch-dependence of the gas exchange velocity.
5.[momentum flux : wave effect on the drag coefficient and roughness length of sea surface]
(1) A non-dimensional formula of the roughness of water surface waves that takes into account surface tension and viscosity was proposed based on laboratory experiments of high accuracy. (2)Momentum flux above the sea surface was measured at a sea station by simultaneous application of eddy-correlation, inertial dissipation and, profile methods in order to guarantee the reliability. Then a new comprehensive formula was proposed to explain the various previous formulas of roughness length that have seemed even contradictory with one another, in particular as regards the dependence on wind-waves. Less

  • Research Products

    (32 results)

All Other

All Publications (32 results)

  • [Publications] Ueno, K., M.Deushi: "A new empirical formula for the aerodynamic roughness of water surface waves"Journal of Oceanography. 59. 819-831 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 鵜崎健一, 松永信博: "補償流を伴わない吹送流におけるラングミュア循環流の特性"海岸工学論文集. 50. 421-425 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 小笠原敏紀, 久保田踊児, 安田孝志: "白波砕波を伴う強風時吹送流の平均水面直下の鉛直分布とそのモデル"海岸工学論文集. 50. 351-355 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 烏谷隆, 片山博之, 渡辺公彦: "夏季海上における渦相関法に対する熱輸送効果の評価"九州大学応用力学研究所所報. 125. 1-4 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 鵜崎健一, 池畑義人, 松永信博: "リジッド・サーフィス・モデルによる1対のラングミュアー循環流のLES"水工学論文集. 47. 1303-1308 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 田中光宏, 横山直人: "水面波動乱流の数値的研究におけるスペクトルの離散化の影響について"京都大学数理解析研究所講究録「非線形波動現象の数理とその応用」. 1311. 40-51 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 杉原裕司, 増田章: "風波気液界面を通しての二酸化炭素交換量の測定"海岸工学論文集. 50. 101-105 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 石橋道芳, 丸林賢次, 渡辺公彦: "ロータリーエンコーダーを使用した風速計の変換回路"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 35-38 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 石橋道芳, 丸林賢次: "炭酸ガス計測のための空気取り入れ口について-大気中の炭酸ガス濃度変化の長期計測-"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 16-22 (2004)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 津守博通, 杉原裕司, 古寺大悟, 大賀崇史, 増田章: "風波気液界面におけるCO2交換速度の評価"水工学論文集. 48. 511-516 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 杉原裕司, 津守博通, 古寺大悟, 吉岡洋, 芹澤重厚, 増田章: "海面画像計測による白波被覆率の評価"九州大学総合理工学報告. 25. 405-412 (2004)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "Effects of discretization of the spectrum in water-wave turbulence"Fluid Dynamics Research. (in press). (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 増田 章, 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 奥野 章: "津屋崎沖観測塔で観測した海上風乱流 I.計測法と予備解析"応用力学研究所所報. 126. 23-39 (2004)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳: "水中のCO2計測装置の試作"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 21-28 (2004)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 渡辺公彦: "小型三杯型風速計の試作-エンコーダーを使用した風速計-"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 29-34 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] 丸林賢次, 石橋道芳, 渡辺公彦: "海上観測タワーでの計測について"応用力学研究所技術職員レポート. 5. 39-48 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
  • [Publications] Ueno, K., M.Deushi: "Anew empirical formula for the aerodynamic roughness of water surface waves."Journal of Oceanography. 59. 819-831 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Uzaki, K., N.Matsunaga: "The characteristics of Langmuir circulations induced in wind-driven currents with no return flow(in Japanese)."Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 50. 421-425 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Ogasawara, T., Y.Kubota, T.Yasuda: "Vertical distributions of horizontal velocities of currents driven by strong winds and their modeling(in Japanese)."Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 50. 351-355 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Karasudani, T., H.Katayama, K.Watanabe: "Estimation of the effect of heat transport on, eddy correlation method for the flux of carbon dioxide(in Japanese)."Reports of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics Kyushu University. 125. 1-4 (2003)

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      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Uzaki, K., Y.Ikehata, N.Matsunaga: "Large eddy simulation of a pair of Langmuir circulations by a rigid surface model(in Japanese)."Annual Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, JSCE. 47. 1303-1308 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "On the effects of discretization of the spectrum in the numerical simulation of water-wave turbulence(in Japanese)."RIMS kokyuroku. 1311. 40-51 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsumori, H., Y.Sugihara, A.Masuda: "Measurement of the flux of carbon dioxide across the surface of wind waves(in Japanese)."Proceedings of Coastal Engineering, JSCE. 50. 101-105 (2003)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Ishibasbi, M., K.Marubayashi, K.Watanabe: "A cartridge circuit for an anemometer using encoders(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 35-38 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Ishibashi, M., K.Marubayashi: "On the air inlet for long-term monitoring of the concentration of carbon dioxide(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 16-22 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tsumori, H., Y.Sugihara, D.Furutera, T.Ohga, A.Masuda: "Parameterization for the local gas transfer velocity of carbon dioxide at the surface of wind wave(in Japanese)."Annual Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, JSCE. 48. 511-516 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Sugihara, Y., H.Tsumori, D.Furutera, H.Yoshioka, S.Serizawa, A.Masuda: "Estimation of whitecap coverage from digital images of sea surface(in Japanese)."Engineering Sciences Reports, Kyushu University. 25. 405-412 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Tanaka, M., N.Yokoyama: "Effects of discretization of the spectrum in water-wave turbulence."Fluid Dynamics Research. (in press). (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Masuda, A., K.Marubayashi, M.Ishibashi, A.Okuno: "Wind turbulence over the sea surface measured at the Tsuyazaki Station, I Method of measurement and preliminary analysis(in Japanese)."Reports of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 126. 23-39 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Marubayashi, K., M. shibashi: "Development of an instrument for measuring the concentration of carbon dioxide in water(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 21-28 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Marubayashi, K., M.Ishibashi, K.Watanabe: "Development of a compact anemometer of cup-type using encoders(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 29-34 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
  • [Publications] Marubayashi, K., M.Ishibashi, K.Watanabe: "The system for measuring wind turbulence at the Sea Observation Station off Tsuyazaki(in Japanese)."Technical Reports by Technical Staffs of Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University. 5. 39-48 (2004)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より

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Published: 2005-04-19  

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