Design of clothing considering fabric surface fitting ability

2018 Fiscal Year Final Research Report

• Project/Area Number: 16K16255
• Research Category: Grant-in-Aid for Young Scientists (B)
• Allocation Type: Multi-year Fund
• Research Field: Clothing life/Dwelling life
• Research Institution: Shinshu University
• Principal Investigator: Kim KyoungOk 信州大学, 学術研究院繊維学系, 准教授 (30724885)
• Research Collaborator: Takatera Masayuki
• Project Period (FY): 2016-04-01 – 2019-03-31
• Keywords: 布の賦形性 / 曲面形成技術 / なめらかな曲面を持つ衣服設計 / せん断角度

Outline of Final Research Achievements

The purpose of this research is to construct design technology of clothing without wrinkles. We investigated the relationship between the fabric surface fitting ability (the ability to form an undevelopable surface without wrinkles or darts) and the sewing and ironing technology to make a three-dimensional clothing shape. A new measurement method for the fabric area that curves the spherical surface without wrinkles was proposed. A pattern constructing method was developed taking into account the shear angle which quantitatively indicates the local deformation of the clothing. Moreover, guidelines for sewing and ironing to make clothing was suggested. An A-line dress model was constructed and was transformed into various sizes of model. The patterns and the constructing guidelines were obtained using the developed method. The clothing was successfully made with the patterns and guidelines. Therefore, it was able to make clothing without wrinkles using the proposed methods.

Free Research Field

衣服学

Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements

本研究の結果として，なめらかな曲面をもつ衣服のモデル化が行われ，これを用いた美しい衣服の設計が効率的に行なわれる．これまで熟練縫製者の技能に依存していた曲面形成法に対して定量的な設計が可能となった．被服材料学的には衣服の部位ごとに必要な織物の賦形性が明らかになり，また，その評価法が確立された．
本研究によりこれまで経験に頼ってきた高付加価値衣服製作技術が工学的検証と理論的理解を通じて，再構築される点で，学術的な意義がある．また，成果を実際の生産現場での設計製作や自動化に応用することで，高付加価値衣料の設計・生産技術の進歩に貢献できると考えられる．