Birth of the Parisian Fashion Industry and the Concept of Luxury in the 17th-19th Centuries

2023 Fiscal Year Final Research Report

• Project/Area Number: 18K12541
• Research Category: Grant-in-Aid for Early-Career Scientists
• Allocation Type: Multi-year Fund
• Review Section: Basic Section 03040:History of Europe and America-related
• Research Institution: Toyo University
• Principal Investigator: TSUNODA Nao 東洋大学, 経営学部, 准教授 (10623209)
• Project Period (FY): 2018-04-01 – 2024-03-31
• Keywords: モード / ファッション産業 / パリ / 18世紀 / 19世紀 / 都市史 / 商業史 / レース

Outline of Final Research Achievements

In 17th- to 19th-century France, the overlap between the true luxuary only for the privileged social layer and the semi- or accessible- luxury for the middle and lower social layers had formed the "mode" and the industry to provide it. In this situation, the characteristic of France was that the importance of the former had mainteined after the 19th century. France had also had the strategy to form the image of the "mode" and made it be the added value.
In addition to these views, this research offers the new point of view to understand textile industries, the "design", which is indispensable to combine the necessity of both supply and demand.
In the research period, even if the Covid 19 forced the change of the program, we had held two workshops and investigation in Japan and in Europe and prepare to publish the results.

Free Research Field

ヨーロッパ史およびアメリカ史関連

Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements

17～19世紀フランスにおいて，特権層のみがアクセス可能な奢侈と中～下層がアクセス可能な半奢侈とが拮抗しつつ「モード」を形成し，それらを供給する産業が成立した中で，前者の重要性が19世紀以降も保たれた点がフランスの特徴であることを明らかにした。そこにはイメージ形成と，イメージを付加価値とする戦略も見て取れる。さらに，レース業研究を通じて，布を巡る産業全般について新たな視点，すなわち，需給双方の要請を両立する「デザイン」という視点をを示した。期間中は新型コロナ等により予定が大きく狂ったが，オンライン含む2回の研究会，国内外での調査等を行い，主な成果は公表準備中である。