2012 Fiscal Year Final Research Report
Observational study to determine the causes of the freak wave generation in the open ocean
| Project/Area Number |
20676008
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Young Scientists (S)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Research Field |
Naval and maritime engineering
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| Research Institution | The University of Tokyo |
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Principal Investigator |
WASEDA Takuji 東京大学, 大学院・新領域創成科学研究科, 准教授 (30376488)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2008 – 2012
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| Keywords | 巨大波発生要因 / GPS 波浪計測 / 浮体動揺特性 / 黒潮続流 / 大気・海洋・波浪相互作用 |
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| Research Abstract |
To understand the freak wave generation mechanism, GPS wave observation systems utilizing an existing buoy moored in a deep ocean (~5400 m) and a drifting buoy were developed. Freak waves exceeding 13 m in wave height and giant waves around 18 m were observed near Japan, over a yearlong observations, for the first time in this region. Based on these observational evidences, we have validated the freakish sea index and analyzed marine accident cases near Japan. In addition, we have analyzed the wind data from the buoy and discovered that for certain cases the wind gust events occur concurrently with the freakish sea event, which is a new finding in the possible air-sea interaction.
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[Journal Article] Excitation of rogue waves in a variable medium: An experimental study on the interaction of water waves and currents2013
Author(s)
Toffoli, A., Waseda, T., Houtani, H., Kinoshita, T., Collins, K., Proment, D., & Onorato, M.
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Journal Title
Physical Review E
Volume: 87(5)
Pages: 051201
Peer Reviewed
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[Journal Article] GPS-based wave observation using a moored oceanographic buoy in the deep ocean2011
Author(s)
Waseda, T., S. Masato, T. Nishida, H.Tamura, Y., Miyazawa, Y. Kawai, H. Ichikawa, H. Tomita, A. Nagano, K. Taniguchi
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Journal Title
21th International Offshore (Ocean)and Polar Engineering Conference
Peer Reviewed
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[Journal Article] Statistical properties of directional ocean waves: the role of the modulational instability in the formation of extreme events2009
Author(s)
Onorato, M., T. Waseda, A. Toffoli,L. Cavaleri, Fouques, O. Gramstad, P. A. E. M. Janssen, T. Kionoshita, J. Monbaliu, N. Mori, A. Osborne, Pakodzi, Serio, K. Stansberg, H. Tamura, and K. Trulsen
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Journal Title
Phys. Rev. Lett
Volume: 36
DOI
Peer Reviewed
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