2023 Fiscal Year Final Research Report
Studies on the spread of and regional differences in clothing in East Asia from ancient times to the Medieval Period -focusing on hair styles and accessories-
| Project/Area Number |
20K00931
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Multi-year Fund |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Review Section |
Basic Section 03010:Historical studies in general-related
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| Research Institution | Gangoji Institute for Research of Cultural Property |
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Principal Investigator |
Kizawa Naoko 公益財団法人元興寺文化財研究所, 研究部, 研究員 (50270773)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
小村 眞理 公益財団法人元興寺文化財研究所, 研究部, 研究員 (10261215)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2020-04-01 – 2024-03-31
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| Keywords | 古代中世東アジア / 服装文化 / 被り物 / 漆紗冠 / 巾子 |
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| Outline of Final Research Achievements |
The historical condition of head coverings in the Japanese Archipelago between the Kofun and the Nara period was investigated in terms of regional influences from East Asian regions. As a result, it was found that the head coverings of the Nara period were based on the Chinese Tang Dynasty’s official style and differed from those of the Kofun period. In particular, through an examination of literary and iconographic materials, we have shown that the wearing of headgear was widely accepted by the officers as part of an official norm known as the “Ritsuryo” system. The research team also examined excavated head coverings so far called ” Shissha-kan（漆紗冠 literally crowns made with cloth lacquered by urushi )” dated to the Nara period. They noted that this appears to be classified as one of the hairnets called “Koji”, in which the top of the head of bundled hair was covered with hair pins.
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| Free Research Field |
考古学、保存科学、樹種識別
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| Academic Significance and Societal Importance of the Research Achievements |
これまで古代服装研究の多くが衣服に焦点を当てていたのに対して、本研究では服装の一要素である被り物もまた、律令制度の確立期において冠位制の導入により変化する点を明確にした。当該期の被り物は文献史料と図像資料から知られており、遺跡出土漆紗冠は被り物の実態を知る手掛かりと捉えられてきた。本研究ではこれらの事例の調査成果と中国の事例と比較し、漆紗冠と考えられていた出土資料が、冠の下に装着する巾子である可能性が高い点を指摘した。これにより、当時の被り物の構造と、装着のための頭髪の処理方法など、具体的な様相を明らかにした。
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