1986 Fiscal Year Final Research Report Summary
A Study On Beach Transformation Due To Irregular Waves
| Project/Area Number |
60420039
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (A)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Research Field |
Hydraulic engineering
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| Research Institution | The University of Tokyo |
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Principal Investigator |
HORIKAWA Kiyoshi Professor , Faculty of Engineering, The University of Tokyo, 工学部, 教授 (10010571)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
SHINJI Sato Research Associate, Faculty of Engineering, The University of Tokyo, 工学部, 助手 (90170753)
TOMOYA Shibayama Associate Professor, Faculty of Engineering, The University of Tokyo, 工学部, 助教授 (40143391)
WATANABE Akira Professor, Faculty of Engineering, The University of Tokyo, 工学部, 教授 (80011138)
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| Project Period (FY) |
1985 – 1986
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| Keywords | Beach Transformation / Irregular Waves / 海浜過程 |
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| Research Abstract |
The objective of the present study is to investigate the characteristics of the sediment transport and to develop a numerical model of two-dimensional beach transformation due to irregular waves.
1. Velocities in the surf zone were measured in detail by using a split-hot-film sensor and a laser-Doppler velocimeter. Characteristics of wave transformation as well as near bed velocity variations were described under regular and irregular waves.
2. A number of experiments were carried out in an oscillatory flow tunnel in order to understand the mechanics of sediment movement due to asymmetric and irregular oscillatory flows.
3. Experiments on beach transformation under irregular waves were performed in a two-dimensional wave flume. Numerical simulation model was then developed and the effect of wave irregularity on beach deformation was discussed in detail.
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