1987 Fiscal Year Final Research Report Summary
Modeling on Transformation Process of Beach Profiles
| Project/Area Number |
61460168
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for General Scientific Research (B)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Research Field |
Hydraulic engineering
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| Research Institution | Kyoto University |
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Principal Investigator |
SAKAI Tetsuo Kyoto University, Associate Professor, 工学部, 助教授 (30026182)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
HIRAYAMA Hideo Osaka Prefectual Technical College, Professor, 教授 (30026356)
MASE Hajime Kyoto University, Research Associate, 工学部, 助手 (30127138)
ASANO Toshiyuki Kyoto University, Research Associate, 工学部, 助手 (40111918)
IWAGAKI Yuichi Meijo University, Professor, 理工学部, 教授 (90027201)
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| Project Period (FY) |
1986 – 1987
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| Keywords | Beach process / Plunging breaker / Large scale vortex / Mass transport velocity / Bottom boundary layer |
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| Research Abstract |
This project has been carried out to obtain fundamental knowledge which describes the mechanism of beach transformation under wave action. Large scale vortices generated by wave breaking play an important role for the sediment movement in the surf zone. To clarify the mechanism, Sakai has performed a numerical analysis with a marker and cell method to simulate a violent motion after an impinging of a jet from a crest of a plunging breaker. Asano has calculated the turbulent energy close to a bottom under wave motion with a k-e model, and investigated the sediment concentration under the calculated turbulent energy by using a stochastic method. Mase has proposed a calculation model of random wave transformation including wave breaking on a uniform slope. The model gives useful information for the sediment movement under random waves. Hirayama has developed a new theory concerning the mass transport velocity due to waves on a uniform slope. The result is important because the mass transport velocity is closely related to the sediment movement. Iwagaki has summarized the above fundamental results and clarified that the transformation of a beach profile can be explained by the spatial variation of the net velocity of a sediment.
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Research Products
(13 results)
