菊地 美知子 昭和女子大学短期大学部, 講師 (00054172)
TAKEDA Akiko SHOWA WOMEN'S UNIV.Faculty of Literature, Assistant, 文学部, 助教授 (50124326)
KOHARA Natuko SHOWA WOMEN'S UNIV.Faculty of Living Science, Assistant Professor, 生活科学部, 助教授 (90178301)
HINO Ikuko SHOWA WOMEN'S UNIV.Faculty of Living Science, Professor, 生活科学部, 教授 (60146909)
SAKURAI Kiyohiko SHOWA WOMEN'S UNIV.Faculty of Literature, Professor, 文学部, 教授 (60063195)
KOJIMA Kyoko SHOWA WOMEN'S UNIV.Faculty of Literature
谷井 淑子 昭和女子大学, 短期大学部, 講師 (10095929)
|Budget Amount *help
¥1,500,000 (Direct Cost : ¥1,500,000)
Fiscal Year 1995 : ¥400,000 (Direct Cost : ¥400,000)
Fiscal Year 1994 : ¥400,000 (Direct Cost : ¥400,000)
Fiscal Year 1993 : ¥700,000 (Direct Cost : ¥700,000)
This study investigates Santan-clothing and Ezo-Nishiki, looking at 26pieces in the possession of the Historical Museum of Hokkaido (Tsumanuma colloection) and 1 piece of Tosabayashi collection. The purpose of this study is to characterize Santan-clothing and Ezo-Nishiki through philological studies on histories of the clothing and ornaments, the culture and the Northern trade, and through research in the fabrics, the fabric structures and the patterns.
As to the clothing, the conclusions are as follows. Hofuku, long skirts, is divided into hofuku, ryumonfuku and mouhou most of which have migieri, kyoukueri and tsutsusode (or bateisode). They are 140 cm long, and thier sleeves are 200 cm long on average.
Many of ousu, with a closed collar and wide sleeves, are about 115cm long, and are made so that they open at the center in front. They are charactereristically 35.5-41.0cm in length around neck. The fabrics are all made of silk, and most of them are satin, hand-woven brocade, karamiori and tateuneori. Decorative patterns vary a lot : dragons, hugesnakes, cranes, bats, peonies, chrysanthemums, water current, waves, clouds, the seven treasures and utensils. Those are a characteristic of Chinese dressed. The patterms are elaborate and colorful, and have various embroideries. According to fabric and parts to be sewed, there are some means to sew : naminui, hangaeshinui, hongaeshinui and kagarinui. The weaving, embroidering and sewing techniques are so elaborate that it appears quite difficult that we make clothes by using these techniques now. Gold thread, one of wide-spread metallic threads, is made of yorikin or hirakin. Through an element analysis of the thread by SEM-EDSN and X-ray, we found that there are two kinds of thread in it ; one contains gold as the main ingredient, the other silver. The exhibitions have made much of the clothes a bad state. This presents us with a future problem in terms of its mend and preservation.