Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B).
|Research Institution||KYUSHU UNIVERSITY|
MASUDA Akira Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Professor, 応用力学研究所, 教授 (60091401)
MITSUTASU Hisashi Department of Environmental Design, Hiroshima Institute of Technology, Professor, 環境学部, 教授 (30038533)
UEHARA Katsuto Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Research Associate, 応用力学研究所, 助手 (80223494)
KUSABA Tadao Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, Associate Professor, 応用力学研究所, 助教授 (00037871)
小松 幸生 水産庁, 中央水産研究所, 研究員
KOMATSU Kosei Ocean Dynamics Section, National Research Institute of Fisheries Science, Research Scientist
|Project Fiscal Year
1997 – 1999
Completed(Fiscal Year 1999)
|Budget Amount *help
¥13,300,000 (Direct Cost : ¥13,300,000)
Fiscal Year 1999 : ¥2,000,000 (Direct Cost : ¥2,000,000)
Fiscal Year 1998 : ¥5,900,000 (Direct Cost : ¥5,900,000)
Fiscal Year 1997 : ¥5,400,000 (Direct Cost : ¥5,400,000)
|Keywords||Advanced models of wave forecasting / Nonlinear energy transfer / RIAM models and WAM models / Equilibrium spectra of wind waves / Observation and laboratory experiment / Wave forecast at finite depths / Wave breaking / -5 / 3 power spectra of significant waves / 次世代型波浪予報モデル / 非線形エネルギー伝達関数 / RIAM法とWAM法 / 風波の平衡スペクトル / 現地観測と水槽実験 / 浅海域波浪予報 / 砕波 / 有義波高-5 / 3乗スペクトル / 有義波高の5 / 波浪エネルギー放射項のアルゴリズム / 吹送距離法則|
The purpose of this research therefore was not only to develop technique for improving the wave-forecasting model, but also to study wide aspects of wind-wave phenomena associated with the wave model. Hence the principal results are classified into the two categories :
(A) Technical achievements in the wave forecasting model :
1. Intercomparison of the RIAM model and the well-known WAM model or others
2. Development of the method for calculating nonlinear energy transfer at finite depths
3. Development and test of algorithms for the radiation term of the spectral evolution
(B) Wave-dynamical findings and problems :
1. Statistics of wind and waves observed at the Tsuyazaki Station and in the Japan Sea
2. Experimental study of wave braking especially on its role in redelivering energy
3. Nonlinear dispersion relation and equilibrium spectra of wind-wave spectra
Results of particular interest to be highlighted are as follows.
1) A method was developed for calculating the nonlinear energy transfer a
mong component waves at "finite depth". The method much improves the previous methods of Masuda (1980) or Komatsu and Masuda (1996, the RIAM method).the method developed here is probably is one of the most reliable with a widest applicability both in deep water and in shallow water.
2) Wave breaking has so far been considered simply as an energy sink. The experiment made in this research, however, clearly indicated that braking redistributes energy among component waves just as nonlinear energy transfer does.
3) The long-term data analysis revealed that the steepness of significant waves in the Japan Sea has an upper bound independent of the season of the wind speed. Also it was found that significant wave heights and significant wave periods have -5/3 power frequency spectra for periods from a few dayst to several hours. These findings suggest the presence of some deeper laws about the variability of "significant waves", which should be a consequence of some unknown dynamics.