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Investigation of the mechanism of the generation of rip current and development of the procedure for predicting rip current using remote sencing.

Research Project

Project/Area Number 15360266
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionOsaka University

Principal Investigator

DEGUCHI Ichiro  Osaka University, Graduate School of Engineering, Professor, 大学院工学研究科, 教授 (00029323)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) TAKEHARA Kousei  Kinki University, Department of Science and Engineering, Associate Professor, 理工学部, 助教授 (50216933)
ARAKI Susumu  Osaka University, Graduate School of Engineering, Associate Professor, 大学院工学研究科, 講師 (80324804)
Project Period (FY) 2003 – 2005
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2005)
Budget Amount *help
¥13,300,000 (Direct Cost: ¥13,300,000)
Fiscal Year 2005: ¥1,900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,900,000)
Fiscal Year 2004: ¥3,800,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,800,000)
Fiscal Year 2003: ¥7,600,000 (Direct Cost: ¥7,600,000)
Keywordsorographic rip current / gusty rip current / large cusp / rip channel / remote sensing / K-GPS / image data processing / set-down wave / リップチャネル / rip channel / カスプ地形 / 海浜流数値計算 / ローカルリモートセンシング / 離岸流 / 長周期波 / 海浜流
Research Abstract

More than 100 lives were lost by accidents during swimming in the sea every year. It is reported that large part of the accidents were caused by the rip current. If we can predict the occurrence of rip current in advance, it is possible to reduce number of accident through the warning system. However, a certain kind of rip current suddenly. comes in to existence in a very narrow region and its lifetime is not so long. It is generally impossible to predict the occurrence of this kind of rip current. It is needless to say that this kind of rip current is extremely dangerous for swimmers.
At the same time, rip current becomes transporting agency of bed material in the very shallow water region towards offshore.
The aim of this study is to develop a rip current observation system by using local remote sensing from the balloon and to investigate the occurrence condition of rip currents. Surface displacement measuring system by stereo-camera images and bottom topography measuring system using K-GPS are also developed.
Almost all patterns of orographic rip currents reported until now can be recorded in the field observations. Some of the measured flow patterns are reproduced by the numerical simulations of wave fields and wave induced current on the measured bottom topography by K-GPS. Measuring systems of mesoscale bottom topography and wave field are also developed and verified through the field observations.
These results surely set up effective procedures for measuring wave fields and wave induced current in very shallow water regions.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2005 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2004 Annual Research Report
  • 2003 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (41 results)

All 2006 2005 2004 2003 Other

All Journal Article (37 results) Publications (4 results)

  • [Journal Article] Study on the occurrence condition of orographic rip current2006

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, et al.
    • Journal Title

      Annual Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE (in printing)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Characteristics of time variation of rip current measured in the field2006

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, et al.
    • Journal Title

      Annual Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE (in printing)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Measurement of wave field by image processing2006

    • Author(s)
      M.Arita, I.Deguchi
    • Journal Title

      Annual Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE (in printing)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Characteristics of rip current on large cusps2006

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki
    • Journal Title

      Proc. 31st ICCE, ASCE (accepted)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] ローカルリモートセンシングによる河川表面流のPTV計測の試み2005

    • Author(s)
      江藤剛治, 竹原幸生, 他4名
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集 796,II-72

      Pages: 39-52

    • NAID

      10015604300

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] カスプ地形上で発生する離岸流の特性について2005

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 荒木進歩, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 52

      Pages: 111-115

    • NAID

      130003991570

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 衛星画像(ASTER)に基づく汀線位置測定とその誤差についての考察2005

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 荒木進歩, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      海洋開発論文集 21

      Pages: 439-444

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] RIP CURRENT MEASURED AT URADOME BEACH,TOTTORI,JAPAN2005

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki
    • Journal Title

      Proc.29^th ICCE 2

      Pages: 1519-1531

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Approach for PTV measurement of surface river flow using local remote sensing2005

    • Author(s)
      K.Takefhara et al.
    • Journal Title

      Journal of hydraulic, Coastal and Environmental Engineering, JSCE No.796, II-72

      Pages: 39-52

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Characteristics of rip current of large cusp2005

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki et al.
    • Journal Title

      Annual Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.52

      Pages: 111-115

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Determination of the location of shoreline from ASTER image2005

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki, et al.
    • Journal Title

      Annual Journal of Ocean Engineering, JSCE Vol.21

      Pages: 439-444

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Rip current measured at Uradome Beach, TOTTORI, JAPAN2005

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki
    • Journal Title

      Proc. 29^<th> ICCE, ASCE

      Pages: 1519-1531

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] カスプ地形上で発生する離岸流の特性について2005

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 荒木進歩, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 Vol.52, No.1

      Pages: 116-120

    • NAID

      130003991570

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 衛星画像(ASTER)に基づく汀線位置判定とその誤差についての考察2005

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 荒木進歩, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      海洋開発論文集 Vol.21

      Pages: 439-444

    • NAID

      130003950286

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] ローカルリモートセンシングによる河川表面流のPTV計測の試み2005

    • Author(s)
      江藤剛治, 竹原幸生, 他4名
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集 No.796, II-72

      Pages: 39-52

    • NAID

      10015604300

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] GPS速度積分法による垂直ブイ位置変位特性と波向推定2005

    • Author(s)
      河口信義, 出口一郎, 他2名
    • Journal Title

      海洋開発論文集 Vol.21

      Pages: 295-300

    • NAID

      130003950263

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Wave direction observation by arrayed wave height meter in extremely shallow water2005

    • Author(s)
      河口信義, 出口一郎, 他2名
    • Journal Title

      Proceedings of the fifth International Symposium on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, ASCE

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] ビデオ画像に基づく水深計測の試み2005

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, ほか
    • Journal Title

      土木学会関西支部年次学術講演会 (発表予定)

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 極浅海域での多点波高計測による波向きの推定2004

    • Author(s)
      河口信義, 出口一郎, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 51

      Pages: 1441-1450

    • NAID

      130003807729

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Experimental study on arrayed buoy GPS information acquisition system2004

    • Author(s)
      N.Kouguchi, I.Deguchi, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      Proc.14th ISOPE 3

      Pages: 63-67

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 浦富海岸で計測された地形性離岸流の特性とその予測について2004

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 荒木進歩, 他4名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 51

      Pages: 136-140

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] GPSブイアレーによる波浪情報観測システム、海洋開発論文集2004

    • Author(s)
      河口信義, 出口一郎, 他2名
    • Journal Title

      海洋開発論文集 20

      Pages: 635-640

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Estimation of wave direction from multipoint-measurements of surface displacements2004

    • Author(s)
      N.Kouguch, I.Deguchi, et al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Japanese Conf. on Coastal Engineering, JSCE

      Pages: 1441-1450

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Experimental study on arrayed buoy GPS information acquisition system2004

    • Author(s)
      N.Kouguchi, I.Degucgi et al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. 14th ISOPE Vol.3

      Pages: 63-67

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Orographic rip current measured at Uradome Beach, TOTTORI and numerical simulation for predicting rip current2004

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Japanese Conf. on Coastal Engineering, JSCE

      Pages: 136-140

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Wave observation system using arrayed Buoys2004

    • Author(s)
      N.Kouguchi, I.Deguchi et al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Civil Engineering in the Ocean, JSCE Vol.20

      Pages: 635-640

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Analytical solution to the irregular wave run-up using Lagrangian Equations2004

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi et al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Japanese Conf. on Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.51

      Pages: 121-125

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 浦富海岸で観測された地形性離岸流の特性とその予測について2004

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, ほか
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 51・1

      Pages: 136-140

    • NAID

      130003807711

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 極浅海域での多点波高計測による波向きの推定2004

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, ほか
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 51・2

      Pages: 1441-1450

    • NAID

      130003807729

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Experimental study on arrayed buoy GPS information acquisition system - results of comparison between GPS buoy system and sonic wave height and current meter -2004

    • Author(s)
      Ichiro Deguchi, et al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc.14th ISOPE

      Pages: 63-67

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 鳥取県浦富海岸で観測された離岸流の特性、海岸工学論文集2003

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 荒木進歩, 他3名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 52

      Pages: 151-155

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Characteristics of rip current measured at Uradome Beach, TOTTORI2003

    • Author(s)
      I.Deguchi, S.Araki
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Japanese Conf. on Coastal Engineering, JSCE

      Pages: 151-155

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Estimation of swell direction in Osaka Bay using GPS arrayed Buoy system2003

    • Author(s)
      H.Fujii, I.Deguchi er al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Japanese Conf. on Coastal Engineering, JSCE Vol.50

      Pages: 1416-1420

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Accuracy of the estimation of wave direction using GPS arrayed Buoy system2003

    • Author(s)
      H.Fujiil.I.Deguchi et al.
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Civil Engineering in the Ocean, JSCE Vol.19

      Pages: 857-862

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 離岸流の時間変動特性について

    • Author(s)
      出口一郎, 吉井匠, 他2名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 53(印刷中)

    • NAID

      130003991827

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 地形性離岸流の発生条件に関する研究

    • Author(s)
      吉井匠, 出口一郎, 他2名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 53(印刷中)

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 画像解析による波浪計測手法に関する研究

    • Author(s)
      有田守, 出口一郎
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 53(印刷中)

    • NAID

      130003991910

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2005 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Publications] 出口 一郎, 他: "鳥取県浦富海岸で観測された離岸流の特性"土木学会海岸工学論文集. 第50巻. 151-155 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Ichiro, Deguchi, et al.: "Development and Experimental results of GPS Wave Direction Finding System"Proceedings of the 16^<th> International Technical Meeting GPS 2003, Institute of Navigation, Portland, USA. 75-83 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] 出口 一郎, 他: "GPSブイアレー波浪観測システムを用いた大阪湾内うねり伝搬方向の計測"土木学会海岸工学論文集. 第50巻. 1416-1420 (2003)

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report
  • [Publications] Ichiro, Deguchi, et al.: "Rip current measured at Uradome Beach, Tottori, Japan"29^<th> International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE. (発表予定).

    • Related Report
      2003 Annual Research Report

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Published: 2003-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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