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A Comparative Cultural Study on Gender in Costume

Research Project

Project/Area Number 16500485
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field General human life sciences
Research InstitutionJapan Women's University

Principal Investigator

SASAI Kei  Japan Women's Univ., Fac. of Home Economics, Prof., 家政学部, 教授 (60017241)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) TOKUI Yoshiko  Ochanomizu University, Fac. of Human Life and Environmental Science, Prof., 生活科学部, 教授 (80172146)
YOKOGAWA Kimiko  Mukogawa Women's University, Department of Human Environmental Sciences, Professor, 生活環境学部, 教授 (50090923)
SHIBATA Mie  Chiba University, Fac. of Education, Prof., 教育学部, 教授 (70017234)
MORI Rie  Kyoto Prefectural University, Department of Human Environment, Associate Professor, 人間環境学部, 助教授 (00269820)
MATSUO Ryoko  Yamaguchi Prefectural university, Faculty if Human Life Sciences, Lecturer, 生活科学部, 講師 (40205274)
村田 仁代  大阪樟蔭女子大学, 学芸学部, 教授 (90219931)
Project Period (FY) 2004 – 2006
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2006)
Budget Amount *help
¥3,500,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,500,000)
Fiscal Year 2006: ¥900,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000)
Fiscal Year 2005: ¥1,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,200,000)
Fiscal Year 2004: ¥1,400,000 (Direct Cost: ¥1,400,000)
Keywordsnew woman / cross-dressing / gender / 阿国歌舞伎 / New Women / 異装 / スポーツ服 / とりかえばや / シュミーズ
Research Abstract

We have been engaged in an exchange of opinions at study group meetings held three or four times a year while each proceeding with our own research.
The research carried out in connection with the West focused on the concept of the "new woman" in the United States, Britain and Japan during the late 19^<th> century, and we studied awareness of gender on the basis of the clothing associated with the "new woman". On the basis of the movement aimed at improving the clothing of the "new woman" and the types of clothing that appear in manifestations of the theatre and the novel that treat the "new woman", we show how the concept of the "new woman" became established through new clothing and action. By studying new forms of clothing such as women's sportswear and practical clothing originating in Britain during this period, we came to appreciate that a new sense of values was brought forward at this time and that it had an influence on attitudes to gender during the 20^<th> century.
We examined cross-dressing by women in England during the first half of the 17^<th> century and female dressing in men's wear as evident in early modern French literature. We have thus managed to throw light on gender awareness at that time.
The research conducted specifically in connection with novel Torikaebaya monogatari (The Changelings) and on Okuni Kabuki. We were concerned particularly with manifestations of gender and sexuality. We were able also to throw light on the awareness of values shared by both men and women.
As regards popular customs during the early part of the 17^<th> century, through examination of a picture scroll dating from this period entitled the Kabuki zumaki, and we were able to bring to light the attitudes to gender.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2006 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report Summary
  • 2005 Annual Research Report
  • 2004 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (47 results)

All 2007 2006 2005 2004

All Journal Article (45 results) Book (2 results)

  • [Journal Article] 19世紀末イギリスの演劇The New Womenにみる「新しい女」-その精神とファッション-2007

    • Author(s)
      佐々井 啓
    • Journal Title

      日本家政学会誌 58・1

      Pages: 23-33

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report 2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 涙のドッヴィーズの文学背景 : <心と眼の論争>2007

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Journal Title

      お茶の水女子大学『人文科学研究』 3

      Pages: 29-40

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 大村しげのこだわり-ものの収納場所と収納用具から-2007

    • Author(s)
      横川公子
    • Journal Title

      国立民族学博物館調査報告『モノに見る生活文化とその時代に関する研究』 68

      Pages: 125-156

    • NAID

      120001730553

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] "The New Woman" Expressed in the Drama The New Woman at the end of 19^<th> Century Britain2007

    • Author(s)
      Sasai Kei
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Home Economics of Japan Vol.58・No.1

      Pages: 23-33

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] A literary source of the device of tears : ≪ Strife between the heart and the eye ≫2007

    • Author(s)
      Tokui Yoshiko
    • Journal Title

      Study of humanities, Ochanomizu Univ. vol.3

      Pages: 29-40

    • NAID

      40015445140

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Ryoji Sasahara, Life Culture through Daily-use Articles : Omura Shige's Collection at the National Museum of Ethnology2007

    • Author(s)
      Yokogawa Kimiko
    • Journal Title

      Senri Ethnological Reports No.68

      Pages: 125-156

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 涙のトッヴィーズの文学背景 : <心と眼の論争>2007

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Journal Title

      人文科学研究(お茶の水女子大学) 3

      Pages: 29-40

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] モダンガールが街をゆく2007

    • Author(s)
      横川公子
    • Journal Title

      NHK知るを楽しむ歴史に好奇心 2・24

      Pages: 148-166

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 大村しげのこだわり-ものの収納場所と収納用具から-2007

    • Author(s)
      横川公子
    • Journal Title

      国立民族学博物館調査報告 『モノい見る生活文化とその時代に関する研究』 68

      Pages: 125-156

    • NAID

      120001730553

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 17世紀前半の英国の服飾に関する一考察 -女性による異性装と子どもの装い-2006

    • Author(s)
      松尾 量子
    • Journal Title

      国際服飾学会誌 30

      Pages: 4-16

    • NAID

      10018381821

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report 2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 後期ヴィクトリア社会におけるアウトドアファッションの流行-「新しい女性」の誕生と関連して-2006

    • Author(s)
      好田 由佳
    • Journal Title

      服飾美学 43

      Pages: 35-52

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] キモノの女性化、ファッション化と民族衣装化2006

    • Author(s)
      森 理恵
    • Journal Title

      愛媛県歴史文化博物館展覧会図録「ときめくファッション~小町娘からモダンガールまで~」

      Pages: 114-119

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 『男色大鑑』にみる男性服飾の表現-若衆の振袖を中心に-2006

    • Author(s)
      森 理恵
    • Journal Title

      美学 224号

      Pages: 41-54

    • NAID

      110006383321

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] A Study of English Costume in the Early Seventeenth Century-Women in male attire and Children's Clothing-2006

    • Author(s)
      Matsuo, Ryoko
    • Journal Title

      Journal of the International Association of Costume No.30

      Pages: 4-16

    • NAID

      10018381821

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] The Trend of the Outdoor Fashion in the Late Victorian Society -In relation to the appearance of the "New Woman"-2006

    • Author(s)
      Koda Yuka
    • Journal Title

      Journal of the Society of Aesthetics of Costume No43

      Pages: 35-52

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] The feminization of Kimono : Fashion and national costume, Fashion : From 'Komachi Musume' to 'modern girl'2006

    • Author(s)
      Mori Rie
    • Journal Title

      Exhibition catalogue of Museum of Ehime history and culture

      Pages: 114-119

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Expressions of Fashionable Dress in Ihara Saikaku's Nanshoku Okagami : The Fluttering Sleeves of Young Males2006

    • Author(s)
      Mori Rie
    • Journal Title

      Bigaku 224

      Pages: 41-54

    • NAID

      110006383321

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Mediaeval Europe as seen in the culture of colors2006

    • Author(s)
      Tokui Yoshiko
    • Journal Title

      Kodansha

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 後期ヴィクトリア社会におけるアウトドアファッションの流行 -「新しい女性」の誕生と関連して-2006

    • Author(s)
      好田 由佳
    • Journal Title

      服飾美学 43

      Pages: 35-52

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] ときめくファッション〜小町娘からモダンガールまで〜2006

    • Author(s)
      森 理恵
    • Journal Title

      愛媛県歴史文化博物館展覧会図録

      Pages: 114-119

    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 日本と世界の「新しい女」たち-日本女子大学校と『青鞘』の時代19世紀後半のアメリカの「新しい女」-服装改良の視点から2005

    • Author(s)
      佐々井 啓
    • Journal Title

      日本女子大学総合研究所紀要 8

      Pages: 80-84

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 中世フランス文学における下着chemiseの表現-着衣と裸体の狭間で2005

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Journal Title

      服飾文化学会誌 5号

      Pages: 33-39

    • NAID

      40007047801

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] オリジナリティは引用の集積である-ファッションの歴史は語る2005

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Journal Title

      映像情報メディア学会技術報告 29・58

      Pages: 1-4

    • NAID

      10016894038

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary 2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] Shooting dressにみる19世紀後半イギリス女性の服飾観2005

    • Author(s)
      山村 明子
    • Journal Title

      国際服飾学会誌 28

      Pages: 76-94

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary 2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 和装関連書籍に見る和装品メンテナンスの知識の継承とその問題点-最近1954年~2005年の雑誌関連記事の記述量と内容から-2005

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      武庫川女子大学紀要(人文・社会科学) 53

      Pages: 91-98

    • NAID

      110006200404

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 徳川美術館蔵「歌舞伎図巻」にみる流行のさきがけ-男性の髪型と服装の関連に着目して-2005

    • Author(s)
      森 理恵
    • Journal Title

      金鯱叢書 32

      Pages: 249-262

    • NAID

      40006877836

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary 2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] "The New Woman" in the late 19^<th> Century U.S.-from the viewpoint of dress reform2005

    • Author(s)
      Sasai Kei
    • Journal Title

      Journal of The Research Institute of Japan Women's University No.8

      Pages: 80-84

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Underwear ≪ chemise ≫ as expressed in Medieval French literature : A thin line between ≪ clothed ≫ and ≪ unclothed ≫2005

    • Author(s)
      Tokui Yoshiko
    • Journal Title

      Costume and textile vol.5

      Pages: 33-39

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Originality is an accumulation of citations : as revealed in the history of fashion2005

    • Author(s)
      Tokui Yoshiko
    • Journal Title

      ITE Technical Report vol.29. no.58

      Pages: 1-4

    • NAID

      10016894038

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Ideas of Costume in the second half of 19th Century Britain-Focusing on Shooting dress-2005

    • Author(s)
      Akiko Yamamura
    • Journal Title

      Journal of the International Association of Costume No.28

      Pages: 76-94

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Transmission of knowledge concerning cleaning and maintenance of traditional Japanese garments -according to literary sources(1954-2005 )2005

    • Author(s)
      Yokogawa Kimiko
    • Journal Title

      Bull. Mukogawa Women's Univ. Humanities and Social Sci No.53

      Pages: 91-98

    • NAID

      110006200404

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Fashion leaders depicted in "Kabuki Zukan" : The relation between men's hair styles and their clothes2005

    • Author(s)
      Mori Rie
    • Journal Title

      Kinko Sosho 32

      Pages: 249-262

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 日本と世界の「新しい女」たち-日本女子大学校と『青鞜』の時代 19世紀後半のアメリカの「新しい女」-服装改良の視点から2005

    • Author(s)
      佐々井 啓
    • Journal Title

      日本女子大学総合研究所紀要 8

      Pages: 80-84

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 和装関連書籍に見る和装品メンテナンスの知識の継承とその問題点-最近1954年〜2005年の雑誌関連記事の記述量と内容から-2005

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      武庫川女子大学紀要(人文・社会科学) 53

      Pages: 91-98

    • NAID

      110006200404

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 食玩に関する生活文化学的研究I食玩情報の所在および調査方法に関する覚書2005

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      武庫川女子大学紀要(人文・社会科学) 53

      Pages: 109-117

    • NAID

      120005999372

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 洋裁文化隆盛の時代-1952年〜1983年 関西における洋裁文化資料の発掘から-2005

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      服飾美学 41

      Pages: 91-98

    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 中世フランス文学における下着chemiseの表現-着衣と裸体の狭間で2005

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Journal Title

      服飾文化学会誌 7号

      Pages: 33-39

    • NAID

      40007047801

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 徳川美術館蔵「歌舞伎図巻」にみる流行のさきがけ-男性の髪型と服装の関連に着目して2005

    • Author(s)
      森 理恵
    • Journal Title

      金鯱叢書 32

      Pages: 1-13

    • NAID

      40006877836

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 収納場所と収納用具に見る暮らしの思想-大村しげコレクションを事例として-2005

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      生活デザイン研究(武庫川女子大学生活美学研究所研究報告集) 3号

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] ファッションにあらわれた女性の解放-1850年代以降の欧米と日本の「新しい女」-2004

    • Author(s)
      佐々井 啓
    • Journal Title

      国際服飾学会誌 26

      Pages: 31-52

    • NAID

      10014190119

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary 2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 1830年代フランスのファッション情報メディア-芝居とコピー画の役割-2004

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Journal Title

      日本家政学会誌 55・6

      Pages: 499-506

    • NAID

      110003167029

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Woman's Emancipation through Costume -Western and Japanese "New Woman" after 1850s-2004

    • Author(s)
      Sasai Kei
    • Journal Title

      Journal of the International Association of Costume 26

      Pages: 31-52

    • NAID

      10014190119

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] Fashion information media during the 1830's in France : Function of theatre and arts2004

    • Author(s)
      Tokui Yoshiko
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Home Economics in Japan vol.55, no.6

      Pages: 499-506

    • NAID

      110003167029

    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(欧文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Journal Article] 書評 羽生清著『装うこと生きること-女性たちの近代-』2004

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      デザイン理論 45号

      Pages: 91-93

    • NAID

      120005650918

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 意匠学会第45回大会報告2004

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Journal Title

      デザイン理論 44号

      Pages: 119-126

    • NAID

      120005651026

    • Related Report
      2004 Annual Research Report
  • [Book] 色で読む中世ヨーロッパ2006

    • Author(s)
      徳井 淑子
    • Total Pages
      238
    • Publisher
      講談社
    • Description
      「研究成果報告書概要(和文)」より
    • Related Report
      2006 Annual Research Report 2006 Final Research Report Summary
  • [Book] 関西文化研究第4号 洋裁文化隆盛の時代-関西ファッション史の試み-(第7回MKCRフォーラム報告集)2005

    • Author(s)
      横川 公子
    • Total Pages
      61
    • Related Report
      2005 Annual Research Report

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Published: 2004-04-01   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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