| Project/Area Number |
23500875
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
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| Allocation Type | Multi-year Fund |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Research Field |
General human life sciences
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| Research Institution | Ochanomizu University |
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Principal Investigator |
TOKUI Yoshiko お茶の水女子大学, 大学院・人間文化創成科学研究科, 教授 (80172146)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
OYAMA Naoko お茶の水女子大学, 生活科学部, 非常勤講師 (00194639)
UCHIMURA Rina 跡見学園女子大学, マネジメント学部, 准教授 (00401597)
TSUNODA Nao お茶の水女子大学, 大学院・人間文化創成科学研究科, 研究院研究員 (10623209)
NIIMI Iho お茶の水女子大学, 生活科学部, 非常勤講師 (80447573)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2011 – 2013
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| Project Status |
Completed (Fiscal Year 2013)
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| Budget Amount *help |
¥5,200,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,000,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,200,000)
Fiscal Year 2013: ¥1,170,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000、Indirect Cost: ¥270,000)
Fiscal Year 2012: ¥1,170,000 (Direct Cost: ¥900,000、Indirect Cost: ¥270,000)
Fiscal Year 2011: ¥2,860,000 (Direct Cost: ¥2,200,000、Indirect Cost: ¥660,000)
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| Keywords | 服飾 / 流行 / 模倣 / 異文化接触 / 身体表象 / 小売業 / ジェンダー / 近代化 / 改良服 / 異性装 |
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| Research Abstract |
In order to construct a theory of imitation in costume fashion, it is necessary to integrate several structural analyses of the fashion phenomenon in terms of time and place. This is because the media and the systems that cultivate imitation differ by specific temporal and geographical social structures, economic modalities, or political cultures. In the European Middle Ages, costume patterns were propagated by means of feasts and literary exchanges among courts, and in 17th century France, where physical representation was embedded in the social order, many documents on manners supported fashion. The manner in which merchants treated fashion in the second half of the 18th century led to the double meaning of modern fashion, in that the merchant was a precursor of haute couture design and the large-scale, retail department store. In the 19th century, a deviation in the costumes of men and women was created; although it is paradoxical to say that this change promoted cross-dressing, it is part of the background of early feminist thought. In modern Japan, in comparison, the diffusion of Western formal dress and the acceptance of Western culture were political phenomena that related to the formulation of the modern nation. In the 20th century, when the adjacency of art and fashion was encouraged, imitation and citation as design sources were employed to spur creativity.
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