| Research Abstract |
The main critical requirements in deciding the quality of clothing is an adaptation to the human sense, or the feeling of ease-of-mind. This includes visual aesthetic sense and wearer comfort. In order to design and make top-quality garments in the present-day apparel industry, it has become necessary to establish an objective evaluation method of fabric formability and tailorability, factors that have important influence on the aesthetic appeal of the garment.
However, the procedure of designing garments still relies primarily on designers' intuitive sense through long experience. The variety of textile materials used for ladies' garments is continually increasing. In addition to conventional fabrics constructed from natural fibers or man-made fibers, new materials with different properties from those of conventional materials are also being supplied by textile manufacturers using special techniques for fiber forming control and fiber assembly structure control, such as spinning, weavi
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ng, etc.. Some examples of these fabrics are "SHINGOSEN" and "New Generation Wool". As even veteran apparel designers have little experience in woking with these new materials, their intuitive sense is less effective in decisions concerning optimum silhouette design and tailoring process controls that take fabric sewability into consideration. Therefore, it can be said that the present manufacturing system may lead to problems in manufacturing and consumption because of lack of information about the new materials.
The objective of this study is to contribute to the realization of more comfortable wear life through an effective cycle of the production and consumption of high quality garments. A designing method for the optimum silhouette of clothing was developed based on fabric basic mechanical properties, and the applicability of this method in actual factories was verified through the cooperation of researchers in both Japan and foreign countries. As engineering control of the sewing process using a fabric's basic mechanical properties is necessary to construct high quality garments, a control method for sewing conditions, such as the type of machine thread and machine needle, and the various operation conditions of the sewing machine was obtained in order to form an optimum stitch with no seam pucker, seam damage, or seam slippage.
The results obtained in this study are summarized as follows.
(1) Decision of an optimum silhouette based on a fabric's basic mechanical properties and the clarification of the range of mechanical properties of high quality fabrics.
(2) New development of an objective measurement method of seam pucker using a laser scanning tester, a measuring method of the dynamic tension of both the needle thread and bobbin thread, and the preparation of basic data for the control of sewing conditions by theoretical analyzes.
(3) The systemization of the sewing process and inspection of applicability in the actual factory work to produce high quality apparel based on a fabric's basic mechanical properties. Less
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