2013 Fiscal Year Final Research Report
TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE GROUPS IN A DIRECTIONAL SEA
| Project/Area Number |
22360195
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Research Field |
Hydraulic engineering
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| Research Institution | Nagoya Institute of Technology |
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Principal Investigator |
KIOKA Wataru 名古屋工業大学, 工学(系)研究科(研究院), 教授 (10135402)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
KITANO Toshikazu 名古屋工業大学, 大学院・工学研究科, 准教授 (00284307)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2010-04-01 – 2014-03-31
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| Keywords | 不規則波 / 波群 / 波の非線形干渉 / 波の反射 / 長周期波 |
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| Research Abstract |
The purpose of this study is to determine wave group evolution by investigating the transformation of multi-directional spectra at constant depth and on a sloping beach. The transformation of wave groups can be evaluated by computing multi-directional nonlinear waves based on the third-order Zakharov equation. Initial conditions for numerical simulation were characterized by the Gaussian spectrum for several values of significant wave heights and water depths. The numerical results show that the distribution of the energy processes affects the evolution of the wave groups, and the characteristics of directional wave groups can be reproduced through the Zakharov equation model. Finally, field observation data at Akabane beach were used to demonstrate the transformation of wave groups in a real directional sea.
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