2013 Fiscal Year Final Research Report
Development of Image-based field observation system for behavior of infragravity waves along the surf zone
| Project/Area Number |
23686070
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Young Scientists (A)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Research Field |
Hydraulic engineering
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| Research Institution | The University of Tokyo |
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Principal Investigator |
TAJIMA Yoshimitsu 東京大学, 工学(系)研究科(研究院), 教授 (20420242)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2011-04-01 – 2014-03-31
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| Keywords | 高波 / 海岸災害 / 長周期波 / 砕波 / エッジ波 / 画像監視 |
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| Research Abstract |
Coastal disasters due to stormy waves often locally concentrate and this feature may be partially due to existence of infragravity waves, which have longer wave period rather than wind-induced stormy waves. Due to difficulty of field observation especially around the surf zone under the stormy waves, there are nearly no quantitative data obtained for further investigation of the behaviors of such long waves around the surf zone under the stormy waves. This study successfully developed image-based monitoring system to capture such surf one hydrodynamics. The system was applied to Seisho coast and found that long waves dominantly formed partial standing waves in the alongshore directions under the stormy wave conditions and this feature reasonably explains the inundation heights observed just after the disaster when the typhoon hit the Seisho coast in 2007.
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