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Investigation and development of a forecasting method of long period ocean waves ranging from 15 to over 30 seconds

Research Project

Project/Area Number 23360216
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionKyushu University

Principal Investigator

HASHIMOTO Noriaki  九州大学, 工学(系)研究科(研究院), 教授 (90371749)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) SUZUKI Yasushi  日本気象協会, 本社, 技師長 (80572388)
KAWAI Hiroyasu  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋情報研究領域, 海洋情報研究領域長 (40371752)
KAWAGUCHI Koji  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋情報研究領域, 海象情報研究チームリーダー (50371753)
YAMASHIRO Masaru  九州大学, 大学院・工学研究院, 准教授 (70336014)
YOKOTA Masaki  九州大学, 大学院・工学研究院, 助教 (60432861)
Project Period (FY) 2011-04-01 – 2014-03-31
Project Status Completed (Fiscal Year 2013)
Budget Amount *help
¥18,330,000 (Direct Cost: ¥14,100,000、Indirect Cost: ¥4,230,000)
Fiscal Year 2013: ¥4,680,000 (Direct Cost: ¥3,600,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,080,000)
Fiscal Year 2012: ¥7,280,000 (Direct Cost: ¥5,600,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,680,000)
Fiscal Year 2011: ¥6,370,000 (Direct Cost: ¥4,900,000、Indirect Cost: ¥1,470,000)
Keywordsうねり / 長周期波 / 波浪予報 / 非線形エネルギー輸送 / 周波数ダウンシフト / 波浪推算 / 海洋波 / 非線形エネルギー輸送 / 方向スペクトル / 風波 / 方向スペクトル / NOWPHAS
Research Abstract

Coastal and maritime structures have been occasionally damaged by long period waves ranging from 15 to over 30 seconds generated in deep and/or intermediate water depth areas. The mechanism of the generation and development has not been clarified yet. Hence, the predictability and reproducibility of the long period waves by existing wave models have not been discussed thoroughly so far.
In this research, we therefore investigated the occurrence characteristics of long period waves by analyzing wave data observed around Japan. Then, we investigated the frequency downshift of directional spectra caused by the nonlinear energy transfer considered to be a possible mechanism. As a result, we obtained valuable findings to contribute to the development of wave model applicable to estimate long waves.

Report

(4 results)
  • 2013 Annual Research Report   Final Research Report ( PDF )
  • 2012 Annual Research Report
  • 2011 Annual Research Report
  • Research Products

    (38 results)

All 2014 2013 2012 2011 Other

All Journal Article (28 results) (of which Peer Reviewed: 26 results) Presentation (10 results)

  • [Journal Article] Inomata, Anual-to-decadal Variations in Wave Power statistics at NOWPHAS stations around Japan2014

    • Author(s)
      Kawai, H., K. Seki, K. Kawaguchi, and T
    • Journal Title

      Proc. of the 24rd International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (ISOPE2014)

      Volume: (in press)

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Annual-to-decadal variations in wave power statistics at NOWPHAS stations around Japan2014

    • Author(s)
      Kawai, H., Seki, K., Kawaguchi, K. and Inomata, T.
    • Journal Title

      Proceedings of the 24th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (ISOPE2014)

      Volume: 印刷中

    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 有限水深域における海洋波の非線形エネルギー輸送に関する検討2013

    • Author(s)
      橋本典明, 山城賢, 横田雅紀, 児玉充由
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 69, 2 Pages: 131-135

    • NAID

      130004551012

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 波浪データに基づく海面抵抗係数の風速依存性に関する研究2013

    • Author(s)
      横田雅紀, 橋本典明, 網屋凌太, 児玉充由
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 69, 2 Pages: 136-140

    • NAID

      130004551023

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] GPS波浪計の観測に基づく波浪の方向スペクトル推定法に関する検討2013

    • Author(s)
      関克己, 河合弘泰, 川口浩二, 猪股勉, 橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 69, 2 Pages: 1431-1435

    • NAID

      130004551039

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 日本沿岸における拘束長周期波の年間出現特性2013

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二, 橋本典明, 額田恭史
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B3(海洋開発)

      Volume: 69, 2 Pages: 652-657

    • NAID

      130004961796

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] GPS波浪計による沖合の方向スペクトル推定手法の検討2013

    • Author(s)
      関克己, 河合弘泰, 川口浩二, 猪股勉, 橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      GPS波浪計による沖合の方向スペクトル推定手法の検討

      Volume: 69, 2 Pages: 1144-1149

    • NAID

      130004961678

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Estimation of The Sea Surface Drag Coefficient Based on a Wave Data2013

    • Author(s)
      Yokota, M., N. Hashimoto, M. Kodama, R. Amiya
    • Journal Title

      Proc. 7th Int. Conf. on Asia and Pacific Coasts APAC2013

      Pages: 629-633

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Deepwater Wave characteristics around Japan Observed by NOWPHAS GPS Buoy Network2013

    • Author(s)
      Kawai, H., K. Seki, K. Kawaguchi, and T. Inomata
    • Journal Title

      Proc. of the 23rd International Offshore and Polar Engin eering Conference (ISOPE2013)

      Volume: Vol.3 Pages: 1046-1053

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Numerical Study on Nonlinear Energy Transfer of Gravity Wave Spectra in Finite Water Depths2013

    • Author(s)
      橋本典明・山城 賢・横田雅紀・児玉充由
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 69 Issue: 2 Pages: I_131-I_135

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.69.I_131

    • NAID

      130004551012

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Study on Wind Speed Dependency of Sea Surface Drag Coefficient Based on Observed Wave Data2013

    • Author(s)
      横田雅紀,橋本典明,網屋凌太,児玉充由
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 69 Issue: 2 Pages: I_136-I_140

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.69.I_136

    • NAID

      130004551023

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Estimation Method of Directional Wave Spectra from GPS Buoy Motion2013

    • Author(s)
      関 克己・河合弘泰・川口浩二・猪股 勉・橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 69 Issue: 2 Pages: I_1431-I_1435

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.69.I_1431

    • NAID

      130004551039

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] CHARACTERISTICS OF BOUND LONG WAVES OBSERVED ALONG JAPANESE COASTS2013

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二・橋本典明・額田恭史
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B3 (Ocean Engineering)

      Volume: 69 Issue: 2 Pages: I_652-I_657

    • DOI

      10.2208/jscejoe.69.I_652

    • NAID

      130004961796

    • ISSN
      2185-4688
    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] STUDY ON DIRECTIONAL SPECTRUM ESTIMATATION TECHNIQUE WITH GPS BUOY DATA2013

    • Author(s)
      関 克己・河合弘泰・川口浩二・猪股 勉・橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B3 (Ocean Engineering)

      Volume: 69 Issue: 2 Pages: I_1144-I_1149

    • DOI

      10.2208/jscejoe.69.I_1144

    • NAID

      130004961678

    • ISSN
      2185-4688
    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Estimation of the Sea Surface Drag Coefficient Based on a Wave Data2013

    • Author(s)
      Yokota, M., N. Hashimoto, M. Kodama, R. Amiya
    • Journal Title

      Proc. 7th Int. Conf. on Asia and Pacific Coasts APAC2013

      Volume: CD-ROM Pages: 629-633

    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Deepwater wave characteristics around Japan observed by NOWPHAS GPS buoy network2013

    • Author(s)
      Kawai, H., Seki, K., Kawaguchi, K. and Inomata, T.
    • Journal Title

      Proceedings of the 23rd International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (ISOPE2013)

      Volume: Vol.3 Pages: 1046-1053

    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Inter-comparison study of methods for computing non-linear four-wave interactions in discrete spectral wave models2013

    • Author(s)
      Gerbrant Ph. van Vledder and Noriaki Hashimoto
    • Journal Title

      13th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and 4th Coastal Hazards Symposium

      Volume: - Pages: 1-19

    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] A new sea surface roughness expression based on the concept of wind-wave saturation2013

    • Author(s)
      Suzuki, Y. and Y. Toba
    • Journal Title

      Proc. Joint IAHS-IAPSO-IASPEI Conference

      Volume: - Pages: 22-26

    • Related Report
      2013 Annual Research Report
  • [Journal Article] 非線形エネルギー輸送による周波数ダウンシフトに関する数値的検討2012

    • Author(s)
      橋本典明, 小松幸生, 横田雅紀, 仲井圭二
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.68 Pages: 116-120

    • NAID

      40019513179

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 波数スペクトル解析による微気圧変動の水平及び鉛直伝搬特性2012

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二, 橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 68 Pages: 141-145

    • NAID

      130004550731

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 全国沿岸における長周期波の周波数別季節変動特性2012

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二, 橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B3 (海洋開発)

      Volume: 68 Pages: 810-815

    • NAID

      130004961615

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Numerical Study on Frequency Downshift due to Nonlinear Energy Transfer2012

    • Author(s)
      橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 68 Issue: 2 Pages: I_116-I_120

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.68.I_116

    • NAID

      130004550676

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Characteristics of Propagation of Slight Atmospheric Pressure Changes by F-K Analysis2012

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二
    • Journal Title

      Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)

      Volume: 68 Issue: 2 Pages: I_141-I_145

    • DOI

      10.2208/kaigan.68.I_141

    • NAID

      130004550731

    • ISSN
      1883-8944, 1884-2399
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 全国沿岸における長周期波の周波数別季節変動特性2012

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B3(海洋開発)

      Volume: 68 Pages: 810-815

    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 副振動に関係した微気圧変動の時空間特性2011

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二, 橋本典明
    • Journal Title

      土木工学論文集B2 (海岸工学)

      Volume: Vol.67, No.2 Pages: 160-170

    • NAID

      130004550453

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 海象計における種々の波動量の組合せによる方向スペクトル推定精度の比較2011

    • Author(s)
      岩崎裕志, 横田雅紀, 橋本典明, 三井正雄, 河合弘泰
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B3(海洋開発)

      Volume: Vol.67, No.2 Pages: 955-960

    • NAID

      130004558536

    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 副振動に関係した微気圧変動の時空間特性2011

    • Author(s)
      仲井圭二, 他
    • Journal Title

      土木工学論文集B2(海岸工学)

      Volume: 67 Pages: 166-170

    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 海象計における種々の波動量の組合せによる方向スペクトル推定精度の比較2011

    • Author(s)
      岩崎裕志, 他
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B3(海洋開発)

      Volume: 67 Pages: 955-960

    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Presentation] Recent Progress in Directional Spectrum Analysis Method and Wave Meter in Japan2012

    • Author(s)
      Noriaki Hashimoto
    • Organizer
      The 19th Wave In Shallow water Environment Meeting (WISE Meeting)
    • Place of Presentation
      Barcelona, Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Application of Video IMages for Monitoring Coastal Zones in Hasaki, Japan2012

    • Author(s)
      Muhammad Zikra
    • Organizer
      The 33rd. International Conference on Coastal Engineering ICCE 2012,
    • Place of Presentation
      Santander, Spain
    • Related Report
      2012 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Directional wave spectrum in shallow water waves using an array of pixel brightness on video images2011

    • Author(s)
      Noriaki Hashimoto
    • Organizer
      The 6^<th> International Conference on Asian pacific Coasts (APAC2011)
    • Place of Presentation
      Hong Kong, China
    • Year and Date
      2011-12-14
    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Inverse Estimation of Sea Surface Drag Coefficient under Stormy Winds Based on Wave Data Observed outside Storm2011

    • Author(s)
      Noriaki Hashimoto
    • Organizer
      The 18th Waves In Shallow water Environment meeting (WISE meeting)
    • Place of Presentation
      Qingdao, China
    • Year and Date
      2011-05-24
    • Related Report
      2011 Annual Research Report
  • [Presentation] Inverse Estimation of Sea Surface Drag Coefficient under Stormy Winds Based on Wave Data Observed outside Storm

    • Author(s)
      Hashimoto, N.and M. Yokota
    • Organizer
      The 18th Waves In Shallow water Environment meeting (WISE meeting)
    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Directional wave spectrum in shallow water waves using an array of pixel brightness on video images

    • Author(s)
      Muhammad Z. and N. Hashimoto
    • Organizer
      The 6th International Conference on Asian pacific Coasts (APAC2011)
    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Recent Progress in Directional Spectrum Analysis Method and Wave Meter in Japan

    • Author(s)
      Hashimoto, N
    • Organizer
      The 18th Waves In Shallow water Environment meeting (WISE meeting)
    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Application of Video Images for Monitoring Coastal Zones in Hasaki, Japan

    • Author(s)
      Muhammad Z., N. Hashimoto, M. Yamashiro, M. Yokota, K. Suzuki
    • Organizer
      International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] Inter-comparison Study of Methods for Computing Non-linerar Four-wave Interactions in Directional Wave Models

    • Author(s)
      Gerbrant Ph. van Vledder and N. Hashimoto
    • Organizer
      13th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and 4th Coastal Hazards Symposium
    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report
  • [Presentation] A New Sea Surface Roughness Expression Based on the Concept of Wind-Wave Saturation

    • Author(s)
      Suzuki Y. and Y. Toba
    • Organizer
      Proc. Joint IAHS-IAPSO-IASPEI Conference
    • Related Report
      2013 Final Research Report

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Published: 2011-04-06   Modified: 2019-07-29  

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