Boussinesq-type Modeling of Destructive Surf Beat over a Fringing Reef during Typhoon Haiyan

2017 Fiscal Year Final Research Report

• Project/Area Number: 15K06224
• Research Category: Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (C)
• Allocation Type: Multi-year Fund
• Section: 一般
• Research Field: Hydraulic engineering
• Research Institution: Tohoku University
• Principal Investigator: Roeber Volker 東北大学, 災害科学国際研究所, シニア研究員 (60725240)
• Co-Investigator(Renkei-kenkyūsha): Bricker Jeremy 東北大学, 災害科学国際研究所, 准教授 (20645098)
• Project Period (FY): 2015-10-21 – 2018-03-31
• Keywords: Typhoon / swell / infragravity wave / surf beat / beach erosion / numerical modeling / Sendai Port / Boussinesq equation

Outline of Final Research Achievements

The research for this study has lead to a detailed investigation of coastal flooding from a variety of different scenarios. We have analysed the importance of offshore wave conditions, local bathymetry, and tidal fluctuations. Infragravity wave hotspots tend to form in areas with intense wave breaking. These are also areas where coastal erosion can be high -given that the surf and swash zone is composed of erodible material. Tidal fluctuations can modulate the surf zone processes. Though wave runup is usually highest at high water levels, infragravity waves can be highest at low to intermediate water levels. This has to do with the intensity of wave breaking. Under some low to intermediate water levels, wave breaking happens more abruptly than during high water stage. This can lead to higher levels of infragravity wave energy, which is the driving component for sediment transport. flooding and shoreline changes.

Free Research Field

Coastal Engineering