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2009 Fiscal Year Final Research Report

Development of freak wave prediction method

Research Project

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Project/Area Number 19360225
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field 水工水理学
Research InstitutionIndependent Administrative Institution Port and Airport Research Institute

Principal Investigator

NAGAI Toshihiko  Independent Administrative Institution Port and Airport Research Institute, 理事 (00359233)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) MORI Nobihito  京都大学, 防災研究所, 准教授 (90371476)
HIRAYAMA Katsuya  独立行政法人・港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 研究チームリーダー (60371754)
KAWAGUCHI Koji  独立行政法人・港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 主任研究官 (50371753)
HIRAISHI Tetsuya  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 部長 (20371750)
KAWAI Hiroyasu  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 研究チームリーダー (40371752)
KASHIMA Hiroaki  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 研究官 (60463098)
SHIMIZU Katsuyoshi  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 上席研究官 (80392984)
NAKAGAWA Yasuyuki  独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋・水工部, 主任研究官 (30360762)
Research Collaborator JANSSEN Peter A.M.E  ヨーロッパ中期気象予報センター
Project Period (FY) 2007 – 2009
KeywordsFreak wave / Rogue wave / 異常波浪 / 最大波高 / 方向スペクトル / 非線形干渉 / 海洋工学
Research Abstract

Freak wave is abnormal big wave, which causes various sea disasters. This study developed reliable prediction of freak wave. The definition of freak wave is the wave height larger than twice of significant wave in the train and the statistical distribution of maximum wave height as functions of wave spectrum parameters. The fourth-order moment of surface elevation is correlated with the maximum wave height and the freak wave is possible to prediction based on the wave spectrum information. The validity of the theory was verified by field data and experiments.

  • Research Products

    (26 results)

All 2009 2008 2007 Other

All Journal Article (9 results) (of which Peer Reviewed: 9 results) Presentation (15 results) Book (1 results) Remarks (1 results)

  • [Journal Article] 観測データに基づく気象・海象条件とFreak wave出現特性の解析2009

    • Author(s)
      森信人・吉木昌弘・島田広昭・安田誠弘・間瀬肇・河合弘泰・加島寛章
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 56

      Pages: 141-145

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Statistical Properties of Directional Ocean Waves: The Role of the Modulational Instability in the Formation of Extreme Events2009

    • Author(s)
      M. Onorato, T. Waseda, A. Toffoli, L. Cavaleri, O. Gramstad, P.A.E.M. Janssen, T. Kinoshita, J. Monbaliu, N. Mori, ら他5名
    • Journal Title

      Physical Review Letters 102

      Pages: 114502-1-114502-4

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Directional Effects on Freak Wave Prediction2008

    • Author(s)
      N. Mori, M. Onorato, P.A.E.M. Janssen
    • Journal Title

      Proceedings of the 31st International Conference on Coastal Engineering No.676Vol.1

      Pages: 392-403

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 多方向性を考慮した異常波浪予測モデルの提案とその検証2008

    • Author(s)
      森信人・Peter A.E.M. Janssen・川口浩二
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 55

      Pages: 111-116

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 波浪観測網が捉えた2008年2月24日の日本海沿岸高波の特性2008

    • Author(s)
      永井紀彦・平石哲也・河合弘泰・川口浩二, ら他2名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 55

      Pages: 146-150

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 異常波浪予測における多方向性の影響2007

    • Author(s)
      森信人・Peter A.E.M. Janssen・Miguel Onorato
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 54

      Pages: 96-100

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 日本沿岸で観測された2006年の台風等による高波特性2007

    • Author(s)
      清水勝義・永井紀彦, ら他4名
    • Journal Title

      海岸工学論文集 54

      Pages: 326-330

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Characteristics of Yorimawari-Nami, Peculiar Japan-Sea Low Frequency Swell

    • Author(s)
      T. Nagai, T. Hiraishi, H. Kawai, K. Kawaguchi, ら他2名
    • Journal Title

      Observed by NOWPHAS Seabed Wave Gauge Network, Proceedings of the Nineteenth International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference 19

      Pages: 940-945

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] On the extreme statistics of long crested deep water waves

    • Author(s)
      Nobuhito MORI, Miguel Onorato, Peter A.E.M. Janssen, ら他2名
    • Journal Title

      Theory and experiments, Journal of Geophysical Research Vol.112

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Presentation] 観測データに基づく気象・海象条件とFreak wave出現特性の解析2009

    • Author(s)
      加島寛章
    • Organizer
      第56回海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      水戸(茨城県立県民文化センター)
    • Year and Date
      2009-11-19
  • [Presentation] Characteristics of Yorimawari-Nami, Peculiar Japan-Sea Low Frequency Swell, Observed by NOWPHAS Seabed Wave Gauge Network2009

    • Author(s)
      Toshihiko NAGAI
    • Organizer
      The Nineteenth International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (ISOPE2009)
    • Place of Presentation
      大阪(リーガロイヤルホテル大阪)
    • Year and Date
      2009-06-22
  • [Presentation] EFFECTS OF BOTTOM TOPOGRAHY CHARACTERISTICS ON TRANSFORMATIONS OF LONG PERIOD SWELL2009

    • Author(s)
      Hiroaki KASHIMA
    • Organizer
      4th SCACR International Short Conference on APPLIED COASTAL RESEARCH
    • Place of Presentation
      スペイン・バルセロナ(カタルーニャ工科大学)
    • Year and Date
      2009-06-16
  • [Presentation] Damage of Harbor Structure due to Recent Storm Waves2009

    • Author(s)
      Tetsuya Hiraishi
    • Organizer
      Seminar on Abnormal Extreme Waves
    • Place of Presentation
      韓国(韓国海洋研究院)
    • Year and Date
      2009-06-13
  • [Presentation] Reproduction of High Waves by Using a Boussinesq-type Wave Transformation Model for Wave Breaking and Runup in Coastal Zone2009

    • Author(s)
      Katsuya HIRAYAMA
    • Organizer
      Seminar on Abnormal Extreme Waves
    • Place of Presentation
      韓国(韓国海洋研究院)
    • Year and Date
      2009-06-13
  • [Presentation] 多方向性を考慮した異常波浪予測モデルの提案とその検証2008

    • Author(s)
      森信人
    • Organizer
      第55回海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      富山(富山国際会議場)
    • Year and Date
      2008-11-13
  • [Presentation] 波浪観測網が捉えた2008年2月24日の日本海沿岸高波の特性2008

    • Author(s)
      永井紀彦
    • Organizer
      第55回海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      富山(富山国際会議場)
    • Year and Date
      2008-11-13
  • [Presentation] Directional dispersion effects on kurtosis for freak wave prediction2008

    • Author(s)
      Nobuhito MORI
    • Organizer
      Rogue Waves 2008
    • Place of Presentation
      フランス(ブレスト)
    • Year and Date
      2008-10-14
  • [Presentation] Examples of unexpected high waves in shallow water in Japan2008

    • Author(s)
      Katsuya HIRAYAMA
    • Organizer
      Rogue Waves 2008
    • Place of Presentation
      フランス(ブレスト)
    • Year and Date
      2008-10-13
  • [Presentation] Freak wave出現におよぼす方向分散の影響2008

    • Author(s)
      森信人
    • Organizer
      日本海洋学会秋季大会
    • Place of Presentation
      広島(広島国際大学)
    • Year and Date
      2008-09-26
  • [Presentation] DIRECTIONAL EFFECTS ON FREAK WAVE PREDICTION2008

    • Author(s)
      Nobuhito MORI
    • Organizer
      International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2008 (ICCE2008)
    • Place of Presentation
      ドイツ(ハンブルグ)
    • Year and Date
      2008-09-03
  • [Presentation] Freak wave prediction from spectra2007

    • Author(s)
      Nobuhito MORI
    • Organizer
      10th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting
    • Place of Presentation
      アメリカ.
    • Year and Date
      2007-11-10
  • [Presentation] 日本沿岸で観測された2006年の台風等による高波特性2007

    • Author(s)
      清水勝義
    • Organizer
      第54回海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      宮崎(宮崎観光ホテル)
    • Year and Date
      2007-11-09
  • [Presentation] 異常波浪予測における多方向性の影響2007

    • Author(s)
      森信人
    • Organizer
      第54回海岸工学講演会
    • Place of Presentation
      宮崎(宮崎観光ホテル)
    • Year and Date
      2007-11-07
  • [Presentation] 巨大波浪Freak Waveの予測に向けて2007

    • Author(s)
      森信人
    • Organizer
      日本流体力学学会2007
    • Place of Presentation
      東京(東京大学)
    • Year and Date
      2007-08-10
  • [Book] World Scientific Pub. Co., in Handbook of Coastal and Ocean Engineering2009

    • Author(s)
      Nobuhito MORI
    • Total Pages
      131-149
  • [Remarks] ホームページ等・「巨大波浪に関する講演会」の開催(平成21年10月20日,港湾空港技術研究所にて)

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Published: 2011-06-18   Modified: 2016-04-21  

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