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2013 Fiscal Year Final Research Report

TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE GROUPS IN A DIRECTIONAL SEA

Research Project

  • PDF
Project/Area Number 22360195
Research Category

Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)

Allocation TypeSingle-year Grants
Section一般
Research Field Hydraulic engineering
Research InstitutionNagoya Institute of Technology

Principal Investigator

KIOKA Wataru  名古屋工業大学, 工学(系)研究科(研究院), 教授 (10135402)

Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) KITANO Toshikazu  名古屋工業大学, 大学院・工学研究科, 准教授 (00284307)
Project Period (FY) 2010-04-01 – 2014-03-31
Keywords不規則波 / 波群 / 波の非線形干渉 / 波の反射 / 長周期波
Research Abstract

The purpose of this study is to determine wave group evolution by investigating the transformation of multi-directional spectra at constant depth and on a sloping beach. The transformation of wave groups can be evaluated by computing multi-directional nonlinear waves based on the third-order Zakharov equation. Initial conditions for numerical simulation were characterized by the Gaussian spectrum for several values of significant wave heights and water depths. The numerical results show that the distribution of the energy processes affects the evolution of the wave groups, and the characteristics of directional wave groups can be reproduced through the Zakharov equation model. Finally, field observation data at Akabane beach were used to demonstrate the transformation of wave groups in a real directional sea.

  • Research Products

    (14 results)

All 2013 2012 2011 2010

All Journal Article (7 results) (of which Peer Reviewed: 7 results) Presentation (7 results)

  • [Journal Article] 3次元LBM数値移動床の開発と掃流粒子群の挙動シミュレーション2013

    • Author(s)
      賀 露露・岡島雅史・喜岡 渉・北野利一
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2

      Volume: Vol.69 Pages: 546-550

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 観測期間長の曖昧な伝説的記録を含む水域外力の極値統計解析2013

    • Author(s)
      北野利一・信岡尚道・喜岡 渉
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2

      Volume: Vol.69 Pages: 111-115

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] Transformation of Wave Groups in a Directional Sea2013

    • Author(s)
      Pujianiki N.N., Kioka W.
    • Journal Title

      J. JSCE, Ser.B2

      Pages: 133-144

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 高波の極値頻度解析における歴史資料の取扱い2012

    • Author(s)
      北野利一, 中島 凉, 喜岡 渉, 高橋倫也
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2

      Volume: Vol.68 Pages: 96-100

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 斜面上の鉛直壁による強非線形波の反射2011

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉, 岡島雅史, Pujianiki Ni Nyoman, 北野利一
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2

      Volume: Vol.67 Pages: 1-5

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 鉛直壁による波群の反射について2010

    • Author(s)
      喜岡 渉・北野利一・肥後克紀
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2

      Volume: Vol.66 Pages: 6-20

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Journal Article] 気象指数を共変量とする水域外力の極値モデルに対する外れ値の感度分析2010

    • Author(s)
      北野利一・喜岡 渉・高橋倫也
    • Journal Title

      土木学会論文集B2

      Volume: Vol.66 Pages: 141-145

    • Peer Reviewed
  • [Presentation] Nonlinear Evolution of Wave Groups in Directional Sea2013

    • Author(s)
      Pujianiki N.N., Kioka W.
    • Organizer
      7th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      インドネシア・バリ
    • Year and Date
      20130900
  • [Presentation] OUTLIER SENSITIVITY ON THE SEA EXTREMES BY THE TEMPORAL AND CLIMATE INDEX COVARIATIONS2012

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T., Kioka, W., Takahashi, R.
    • Organizer
      International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Place of Presentation
      スペイン・サンタンダー
    • Year and Date
      20120600
  • [Presentation] Degree of Experience and Durability - Indices for Two Types of Extrapolating Sea Extremes2012

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T., Kioka, W., Takahashi, R.
    • Organizer
      Twenty-second International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
    • Place of Presentation
      ギリシャ・ロドス島
    • Year and Date
      20120600
  • [Presentation] Degree of Experience as an Index for Practical Use of Extremes2011

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T., R. Takahashi and W. Kioka
    • Organizer
      Environmental Risk and Extreme Events, Workshop
    • Place of Presentation
      スイス・アスコナ
    • Year and Date
      20111100
  • [Presentation] Diffractive uncertainty toward the future estimation of return wave height2011

    • Author(s)
      Kitano, T., W. Kioka and R. Takahashi
    • Organizer
      Coastal Structures
    • Place of Presentation
      横浜
    • Year and Date
      20110900
  • [Presentation] Steep standing waves against a vertical wall on a sloping beach2011

    • Author(s)
      Kioka, W., T. Kitano, M. Okajima, N. Miyabe
    • Organizer
      International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts
    • Place of Presentation
      香港
    • Year and Date
      20110000
  • [Presentation] Trend Model of Sea Extremes2010

    • Author(s)
      Kitano,T.,Kioka, W., Takahashi, R.
    • Organizer
      International Conference on Coastal Engineering
    • Place of Presentation
      上海
    • Year and Date
      20100700

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Published: 2015-06-25  

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