2013 Fiscal Year Final Research Report
Investigation and development of a forecasting method of long period ocean waves ranging from 15 to over 30 seconds
| Project/Area Number |
23360216
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| Research Category |
Grant-in-Aid for Scientific Research (B)
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| Allocation Type | Single-year Grants |
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| Section | 一般 |
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| Research Field |
Hydraulic engineering
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| Research Institution | Kyushu University |
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Principal Investigator |
HASHIMOTO Noriaki 九州大学, 工学(系)研究科(研究院), 教授 (90371749)
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| Co-Investigator(Kenkyū-buntansha) |
SUZUKI Yasushi 日本気象協会, 本社, 技師長 (80572388)
KAWAI Hiroyasu 独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋情報研究領域, 海洋情報研究領域長 (40371752)
KAWAGUCHI Koji 独立行政法人港湾空港技術研究所, 海洋情報研究領域, 海象情報研究チームリーダー (50371753)
YAMASHIRO Masaru 九州大学, 大学院・工学研究院, 准教授 (70336014)
YOKOTA Masaki 九州大学, 大学院・工学研究院, 助教 (60432861)
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| Project Period (FY) |
2011-04-01 – 2014-03-31
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| Keywords | うねり / 長周期波 / 波浪予報 / 非線形エネルギー輸送 / 周波数ダウンシフト |
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| Research Abstract |
Coastal and maritime structures have been occasionally damaged by long period waves ranging from 15 to over 30 seconds generated in deep and/or intermediate water depth areas. The mechanism of the generation and development has not been clarified yet. Hence, the predictability and reproducibility of the long period waves by existing wave models have not been discussed thoroughly so far.
In this research, we therefore investigated the occurrence characteristics of long period waves by analyzing wave data observed around Japan. Then, we investigated the frequency downshift of directional spectra caused by the nonlinear energy transfer considered to be a possible mechanism. As a result, we obtained valuable findings to contribute to the development of wave model applicable to estimate long waves.
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